What should I be doing now for my bees?

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Yep, the physics of hefting a hive.

Even if it isn't, imagine it was on 4 legs. The weight of the hive is shared roughtly equally between the four.

So if you just raise two of them, to take a weight, you have approx 50% of the weight to just clear the floor with the 2 lifted legs.

Do it on the other side to get a far more accurate weight of the whole by adding both weights together.

P H says, in metric terms, lift about 100mm. Theoretically, zero height but clear of the floor is the ideal, but practically, 100mm will make little difference. But imagine as you lift it higher and higher, the total weight will eventually all be on the two legs left on the ground, when it will be 'in balance' and neither falling one way or the other.

One should heft on both sides for the best result because the bees may have used all the stores along one side and none on the other (think here of a wheel barrow weight when a) lifting the handles and b) when lifting the 'wheel' end).

Generally, there is a little dependance on which way the frames run - fore to aft, or side to side, as to whether to raise front and back or side and side (or rather if only hefting from just one , not two positions.

Regards, RAB
 
watch the utube "thirties beekeeping" video
weighing a WBC a proper hive!!...
tripod, scales. and a man in a suit and trilby on his head
what more would you need?

a note book of course!!!!

Can anyone identify the heather moor??... not Dartmoor... not bleak enough!!
 
On the weekend I intend to try and weigh the individual components of my hives - bb and super with frames, roofs, floors, lifts etc, though I won't be able to do the stands (no spares) - to help with the weighing calculation.

I'll post them on here as guidelines for new beeks unless anyone else has already done this for standard national and WBC (couldnt find any mention searching back through posts apart from a general 10lbs estimate).
 

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