What did you do in the 'workshop' today

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The frame rails are supplied with the box from p@ynes. There is a slot that the metal rail or castellation fits into, if you cut this a little deeper and use castellations upside down you may get away with a couple of mm and still maintain top space. The normal rail won't allow this.
 
I was thinking more of cutting it lower and using the original rail but I might just try doing without the rail. It works OK in the nuc box.
 
Made up another lift for the WBC, in the vague hope of needing it for all of the supers that the bees are going to fill this season! ;)

Live in hope!
 
Fixed Kingspan sheets inside all my roofs (saves faffing with loose ones when lifting off and replacing) Undid and re-fixed a spare floor which was a bit wobbly (don't mind the wobbling but the bee space gap under the brood box was a nuisance last year when trying to move a hive!) cramped up the first of 17 supers I have stacked up in the chamber of secrets err shed. Cut to size (After hearing a heavenly voice utter 'you can never have enough crown boards) 20 crown boards in preparation for the sudden and unexpected increase to the apiary I may experience next year.
 
Made up a few more supers - the shed is also a handy vantage point to sit with the air rifle and pick off the crows and jackdaws robbing my bird feeders - they've got wise to the back door opening now!
 
Made and painted a Langstroth roof from recycled insulation board.
 
Painted a dozen more supers.
Cleaned Apideas for this years queen mating.
 
But regardless, I'd be interested how Erichalfbee gets on using the P type with top space.

This is attempt 1
The groove to take the rail is half an inch deep. Husband cut a plastic curtain rail in half and it has been pushed into this groove with just the small lip showing. This is about one mm proud of the groove allowing a rail of sorts to slide the frames along.
I don't have another Pain super but it does sit on top and under a wooden one with adequate bee space.

I'll use this as the first super on my wooden hive and buy the rest of the poly hive from the next convention I manage to get to.
 
Very neatly done,however I advise caution, the gap between the lugs and rebate is quite small, depending on strain of be you could get the situation where the lugs be completely fastened down with propolis!
It's surprising just how far under they can manage to pack the stuff:)
I have a colony that would have a field day if presented with such .
Still suck and see so they say :)
VM


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Very neatly done,however I advise caution, the gap between the lugs and rebate is quite small, depending on strain of be you could get the situation where the lugs be completely fastened down with propolis!
It's surprising just how far under they can manage to pack the stuff:)
I have a colony that would have a field day if presented with such .
Still suck and see so they say :)
VM


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yes.....that was my first thought too. I have three MB hives and the plastic runners have little ridges on which the frames actually sit and the bees do indeed propolise the frames down. It is relatively easy to move them at inspections but it's a bugger to clean when the boxes are "serviced" in the winter.
 
@ Erichalfbee ..
That's exactly what I was thinking of, even if they propolise I think it will be better than no rails. It looks good.
 
Cleaned my smoker with a wire brush.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
 
Made 2 more mesh floors with some spare roofing lath, but was cold in the workshed today also cut some wood strips to glue to some clear perspex sheets to form a bee space.

takes longer to do anything when cold....
 
stained 20 hives thinking two years ago my garage had 2 motocross bikes in it and racing all over the country
 
Still on my crusade to find a cheap/easy way to build a hive, today I created a patio tile box.

8802281357342_8711992064506_1_13251_tif_picture_290Wx290H.jpg


It's not quite finished yet, but it's after 9, so I had to stop hammering.

The box takes a double honey frame and the material costs less than EUR 10. I'm not unhappy with how it turned out... but it was a LOT of work and I don't think I'm going to make another one. The wall planks are not glued, but I'll use glue and nails to join the corners.

25ivfw8.jpg


Now the big question is whether I can drive a nail into the plank from the side -- if not, I'll have to strengthen those corners with an inch by inch plank on the inside, which will not affect the beespace on the inside.

2qiwoyw.jpg
 
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