What are my early season options?

[Stedic]

So I have one hive which, from the clear crown board, seems to be bursting with bees. They're going to need space really soon, if not now. They're in a national box and I'd prefer them in a 14x12. I don't have any drawn comb (brood or super)What are my options - I see them as:

1. Leave them alone, presume they won't swarm or decide to and wait for a flow.

2. Give them a super and let them go to brood and a half for a bit

3. Give them a super over an excluder to give them space

4. Demeree them (too cold to cover both nests and draw wax?)

5. Shook swarm and feed them syrup?

6. Move frames (quickly) into a 14x12 box and let them draw comb below the national frames as and when they want to.

7. Bailey change them ( with or without feeding).

I think I favour 1, 3, 6 or 7. Plan was to demeree but I think they'll be too big too soon.

I'd appreciate your thoughts.

 

[Anduril]

Your area could still have cold weather, 3 is no good at the moment. When some of my hive are at bursting point, usually in March, but this year is a late one. I put a brood box with drawn frames or foundation underneath. Sometimes I am running double 14x12's for a few months.

 

[maddydog]

Sometimes I am running double 14x12's for a few months.

How many frames of bias do you get when they're going full steam in a double 14x12?

 

[Anduril]

How many frames of bias do you get when they're going full steam in a double 14x12?

One of them, using swienty brood boxes, 8 frames on top an 7 underneath. I usually split to increase early in the season, but last year I kept it together and split after the honey harvest. Also used one frame for Queen rearing, into a queenless colony. Others in wood were around one frame less per brood chamber.

 

[Kenson]

I'd go for #6.

1. In some ways seems best as it seems unlikely they will swarm in the next few weeks, but you have said you would prefer them on the 14x12.
2. Well, you said you would prefer them on 14x12's, so this doesn't really achieve the objective and gives more work to do later.
3. Again, object not achieved.
4. Demaree yes. But you will need more extra equipment, and must put the queen in a largely empty box and you are exposing them to the maximum space increase you could (reasonably) give them at a time of year when it could get cold at night. So no.
5. I'm not sure shaking them out is good at this time of year.
6. Yes. Minimum amount of work. Minimum extra equipment (Just the box). Minimum space expansion for exactly what you want to achieve, and most importantly Minimum stress for bees for what you want to actually achieve. Although it's work, ongoing work, you then have the whole season to rotate out your smaller frames. We just don't know how good the comb they will build will be, but it will suit their purpose, and as you rotate the frames out, that problem (if it is a problem) will go away.
7. Again Bailey is good, but more equipment (you may have it all sitting there), but bigger space and more work for the bees to do.

So I vote #6

K

 

[madasafish]

Well I cannot forecast the future weather with any accuracy so I plan for the worst, hope for the best and ensure - or try to ensure - whatever I do has flexibility.

The worst you can do is have a swarm in good weather from the original hive, then in a run of bad weather lose the swarm and possibly your original hive.

The most flexible option is to move to 14x12 on original frames - keeps them alive and gives then space to grow. You can then split if the weather stays good and they grow big enough - or attempt to swarm.



Everything else is second best or a lot worse.

 

[Stedic]

Thanks everyone.

They could do with a new floor and stand too, so I should be able to do #6 pretty swiftly. I might get a weather window today or tomorrow but I'll hold off until it's pretty much perfect. I'll get everything up to the apiary and set up ready to go for it.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

5. Shook swarm and feed them syrup?

Whatever the question was, unless it is 'I have AFB' shook swarm is never a sensible answer.
How many frames of brood?
I'm with Anduril - new brood box under.

 

[maddydog]

One of them, using swienty brood boxes, 8 frames on top an 7 underneath. I usually split to increase early in the season, but last year I kept it together and split after the honey harvest.

Very nice. Did you get a good crop from that one or did they blow most of it on bees?

Most of my queens are content with one box but the more fecund I do tend to split or steal brood from to balance the others.

 

[Anduril]

Very nice. Did you get a good crop from that one or did they blow most of it on bees?

Most of my queens are content with one box but the more fecund I do tend to split or steal brood from to balance the others.

I had 2 crops from it a spring and summer meadow and hedgerow crop. Didn't have to feed for winter either.

 

[maddydog]

I had 2 crops from it a spring and summer meadow and hedgerow crop. Didn't have to feed for winter either.

Sounds like one to breed from

 

[Anduril]

Sounds like one to breed from

I used it to calm down some of my hot hives last year and will breed from them this year.

 

[mbc]

Whatever the question was, unless it is 'I have AFB' shook swarm is never a sensible answer.
How many frames of brood?
I'm with Anduril - new brood box under.

!!!!!!

EFB surely Mr Jenkins, a hole petrol and a match for AFB

 

[mbc]

#6 letting them build wild comb under the frames is making sure you have problems imho. Think cross built combs and the potential for killing the queen on inspection.
Adding a box underneath or supering or leaving alone for a week or two would all be sensible options.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

!!!!!!

EFB surely Mr Jenkins, a hole petrol and a match for AFB

correct - slip of the finger on keyboard