Wax moth....?

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Childs10

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What do people do to stop wax moth when storing super and brood frames...?
 
Rarely a problem in supers unless they have contained brood. Stack my broods and burn sulphur in them, keep tightly closed with ratchet straps and store outdoors
 
I had 8 supers with wax moth... hadn't used them for brood only honey,
In a shed on top of each other, with newspaper between each super...
Had to distory most of them...
 
Bascillius thurgiensis, biological bacterial control. we discussed this a little a few month ago. i just mixit up and spray a little on the frames on any areas where it starts, if any. when its cold over the winter, they dont work much, if at all.
It could be the same product as "Certan aka B401" Gilberdyke John posted, i dont know.
 
Store my supers 'wet' in readiness for use wrapped in pallet wrap. I have never had a problem with wax moth. Brood boxes when taken out of use have comb removed, recycled and new wax when next needed.
S
 
Bascillius thurgiensis, biological bacterial control. we discussed this a little a few month ago. i just mixit up and spray a little on the frames on any areas where it starts, if any. when its cold over the winter, they dont work much, if at all.
It could be the same product as "Certan aka B401" Gilberdyke John posted, i dont know.

8 boxes is not much. Put them into plastic back and give Ice Acetic gasification.
Important is to stop propagation of moths and stop the work of larvae at once.
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bascillicus would be good after emergency treatment.

The big moth made to me a huge disaster one year.
 
I freeze each super for 48 hours and strap them together as tightly as possible with a lid and a floor. There are members on here who say wax moth only goes in brood box,s don't believe them. They DO go in supers too. I also find that stored in a sealed totally dark room helps. You can smell wax moth if you have it. It has a distinctive smell.
E
 
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Wax moth spoils polyboxes too if it can make its nest into combs. Poly box wall has then tens of holes, via which wasps can go.
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I store all the supers wet, wrapped in heavy duty bin bags and sealed with duct tape. The supers are labelled so that I know which hives they were from. The supers are cleaned and scorched prior to storing, even a dead bee in the recess will give wax moth larvae something to feed on. The honey will smell like it is fermenting a bit, but the bees quickly clean the supers when you return them.

I try to keep the store free from wax debris, spare equipment is cleaned and scorched before it is put away, and is inspected through the year for any wax moth activity.

Acetic acid sterilisation works well, and I have also used sulphur strips when I have wanted to store spare brood frames with pollen over winter, but you need to make sure the frames are aired before use.
 
I will air stuff after acetic but not after sulphur and not seen it suggested. Bees appear not to suffer, but the sulphur treated stuff is in store for at least 4 months after treatment anyway.
 
I've had lots of waxmoth in supers, problem with woodland out-apiaries I suppose. I store my boxes outdoors, hope for snow and scorch before re-installing with new foundation.

Sent from my STV100-4 using Tapatalk
 
I've had lots of waxmoth in supers, problem with woodland out-apiaries I suppose. I store my boxes outdoors, hope for snow and scorch before re-installing with new foundation.

Sent from my STV100-4 using Tapatalk

That will be expencive style. Perhaps that bacterium anti stuff helps you.
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But I must get that stuff too.
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Certan works for me but get them done early . Talking about it now and you are to late .
 
Store mine wet and treated with sulphur this year as although never had any damage done a friend lost loads of super frames last winter.
 
Flowers of sulphur is very effective and simple to use.
I treated mine back in September when the supers came off and were extracted. I then retreated 2 weeks later. The sulphur doesn't kill the eggs, so a re treatment is necessary.
Drawn comb in supers or brood boxes is a valuable asset and something I don't want to risk losing
image.jpg
 
I will air stuff after acetic but not after sulphur and not seen it suggested. Bees appear not to suffer, but the sulphur treated stuff is in store for at least 4 months after treatment anyway.

You've set my memory of School Chemistry lessons. The Sulphur Dioxide (SO2) produced by burning Sulphur will dissolve in any moisture to form Sulphurous Acid (H2SO3) Over time this will take in more oxygen from the air to create Sulphuric Acid (H2SO4).
I wonder what the acid reacts with in the frames and what level of residual Sulphates remain on the combs?
 
As yet have not treated stored comb, something I need to look at. Do store all Supers "Wet" with newspaper between, sealed top and bottom of stack. . In relation to sourcing the Sulphur Strips, Flowers of Sulphur , Bascillius thurgiensis, or Acetic Acid. Where do you guys get this ? Local Chemical companies ?
 
As yet have not treated stored comb, something I need to look at. Do store all Supers "Wet" with newspaper between, sealed top and bottom of stack. . In relation to sourcing the Sulphur Strips, Flowers of Sulphur , Bascillius thurgiensis, or Acetic Acid. Where do you guys get this ? Local Chemical companies ?

But it does not go that way. Your frames cannot all be wet. Moths eate foundations too. You have old black combs waiting melting, broken combs etc.

And when moth hits, it hits. IT took to me 40 years, when they hit.

I had one year berry freezer, which kept my store cellar over zero. And then....

When you see situation, analyse it, and then do something. "I have never had", it does not help another person.
 
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