Wasps!

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OK so not a tunnel entrance but then JBM the design is your adaptation. The entrance is still only defended by one rank of bees and I think it might be dangerous to assume that the design is responsible for thwarting wasps whereas it might actually have been the strength of the colonies. By changing the 3 x 1/2 inch floor baton to a 3 x 3 inch baton you would create the tunnel that would provide multiple rank defence that would help defend weaker colonies such as nucs.
 
think again - you have a slot in the floor not a walk in entrance so instead of one 'rank of guards facing the entrance you have two 'ranks; standing facing each other across the gap which they have to pop their heads up into. I've seen wasps avoid weak colonies as well as strong ones with these floors installed.
Yes I could change the top cill for a 3x3 batten, but then I'd end up with a floor bigger and heavier than the hive on top, and to what purpose?

NONE​
 
There's no argument that the under floor entrance is better than a side entrance but the entrance is still only 1 bee rank deep. I accept that you may have two ranks of bees facing across from each other at top of the the entrance but arguably that's no different than a side entrance.
 
My bucket feeder (on the crown board, under the roof) has leaked, and syrup is leaking from through the wood onto the outside of the hive. Wasps and bees are going for this syrup. Should I care if there are wasps there? There doesn't seem to be any fighting wasp:bee, and I have seen no wasps going into, or even towards, the hive entrance. I'm feeding now because it's a 5-frame nuc increasing in size.
 
My bucket feeder (on the crown board, under the roof) has leaked, and syrup is leaking from through the wood onto the outside of the hive. Wasps and bees are going for this syrup. Should I care if there are wasps there? There doesn't seem to be any fighting wasp:bee, and I have seen no wasps going into, or even towards, the hive entrance. I'm feeding now because it's a 5-frame nuc increasing in size.

IMO the last thing you want to do is attract wasps anywhere near your hive, that is why it is advised not too spill any sugar syrup when adding feeders, you could end up with problems once that spilled syrup has dried up, can you not wash it away and then cross your fingers that they do not target the hive when it is gone.
 
Yes and yes, here is the one i made and i will always use this idea from now on after seeing it successfully defended against nuisance wasps,it also acts as a mouse guard for winter.

hive%20entrance%20002_zpszpygamc9.jpg


hive%20entrance%20001_zpsmnnhinmt.jpg

I like this as I can add it to my base in place but I thought a mouse couldn't get through an 8mm hole but could an 8mm horizontal opening?
 
My bucket feeder (on the crown board, under the roof) has leaked, and syrup is leaking from through the wood onto the outside of the hive. Wasps and bees are going for this syrup. Should I care if there are wasps there? There doesn't seem to be any fighting wasp:bee, and I have seen no wasps going into, or even towards, the hive entrance. I'm feeding now because it's a 5-frame nuc increasing in size.

That's why I will have nothing to do with bucket feeders. Various sizes of rapid feeder are fine for me.
 
I am sorry but you have lost me, it is not hard though these day's.

Sorry:) you said it acts also as a mouse guard but it was my understanding that they can get through an 8mm high slot? Which is why guards have 8/9 MM. diameter holes If not all the better save me putting/taking off mouse guards :)
 
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Sorry:) you said it acts also as a mouse guard but it was my understanding that they can get through an 8mm high slot? If not all the better save me putting/taking off mouse guards :)

The Feline brings in a multitude of things in his deprived life lol , my hive has not got any medals for killing mice yet, i will let you know if they do.
 
wasps

i use mouse guards but i blank most of the holes off with tape leave about 6 holes for them to look after had no problems
 

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