wasp tunnel mark two

[E&MBees]

Just a few photos for those that were not around last year to show a simple wasp tunnel that seems to stop wasps entering your hive made with a simple piece of cable trunking.
it is pinned to the side pieces of the floor and is easily removable. It can be altered to allow the entrance to be open or only accessed via a long tunnel which deters wasps. there is a piece of foam in each end to block off the end you dont want used.

Is it best to fit the tunnels in the evening? And, do I need to reduce the actual hive entrance down as well? At the moment, one hive is on the middle sized entrance and the other is on the smallest one.
Just constructing the tunnels now.
Thanks,
Emily

 

[enrico]

Is it best to fit the tunnels in the evening? And, do I need to reduce the actual hive entrance down as well? At the moment, one hive is on the middle sized entrance and the other is on the smallest one.
Just constructing the tunnels now.
Thanks,
Emily

If they are like mine you can fit them over an entrance reducer (or not, it doesn't matter) at any time of the day. Leave the centre open immediately in front of the normal entrance but close off one end with a piece of foam. In the evening slide the front so that the entrance on the tunnel is to one side of the entrance on the hive ( the opposite side to the foam. ) You can now move that entrance to where you like. If you are still getting wasps then close the centre entrance and just have one long tunnel. The bees will soon learn where the entrance is but the wasps don't like the tunnel of death. The beauty of it is you can make the entrance wherever you like. If it is a bad attack make the tunnel long. If they are not being attacked yet just open it in the middle and let them get on with it. If you make it the width of the hive it just pins to the floor sides! Hope that helps. Ifnoti will post some more photos
Cheers

 

[E&MBees]

If they are like mine you can fit them over an entrance reducer (or not, it doesn't matter) at any time of the day. Leave the centre open immediately in front of the normal entrance but close off one end with a piece of foam. In the evening slide the front so that the entrance on the tunnel is to one side of the entrance on the hive ( the opposite side to the foam. ) You can now move that entrance to where you like. If you are still getting wasps then close the centre entrance and just have one long tunnel. The bees will soon learn where the entrance is but the wasps don't like the tunnel of death. The beauty of it is you can make the entrance wherever you like. If it is a bad attack make the tunnel long. If they are not being attacked yet just open it in the middle and let them get on with it. If you make it the width of the hive it just pins to the floor sides! Hope that helps. Ifnoti will post some more photos
Cheers

That‘s brilliant. I’m following your plans, using the electrical ducting. I’ll fit them this evening. Neither hive seem to have wasps entering them, but they are scouting around the entrances.
Thanks.

 

[coffindodger]

I put a piece of foam in one end so that only one end is in use (enrico)
I left both open and then left them to it for a few hours; came back to find that the bees had organised a one-way system. Left them to it.

 

[BigAshW]

Is there any real reason for having a full width entrance? I always have an entrance block in all year round.
Looking at this great idea I can see my self modifying my floors to all have a tunnel permanently. After all wild bees have the same entrance size all year unless they put up a propolis curtain?

 

[enrico]

Is there any real reason for having a full width entrance? I always have an entrance block in all year round.
Looking at this great idea I can see my self modifying my floors to all have a tunnel permanently. After all wild bees have the same entrance size all year unless they put up a propolis curtain?

Ideally they would be made of something mouse nibble proof. I have to say that I left them on a couple of hives that needed .moving, dead easy to close them up on the night of the move! Just slid the door closed!

 

[BigAshW]

Ideally they would be made of something mouse nibble proof. I have to say that I left them on a couple of hives that needed .moving, dead easy to close them up on the night of the move! Just slid the door closed!

AHH yes of course I forgot about the rodent issue. Good point.

 

[redpig]

Thank you all for the pics.
Some very good simple solutions for a big bloody headache.
I'm going to try and fit tunnels on to the full size and the nucs, break out the gaffer tape.

 

[HughMann]

If any of you have asthma - save the inhailer sprays when used up, pop out the used spray containers and push the 2 holders together and you have a perfect 'periscope' shaped tunnel of death that can be put into the reducer hole or fitted to an underfloor hole.
Pictures to come as soon as this storm is over

 

[enrico]

If any of you have asthma - save the inhailer sprays when used up, pop out the used spray containers and push the 2 holders together and you have a perfect 'periscope' shaped tunnel of death that can be put into the reducer hole or fitted to an underfloor hole.
Pictures to come as soon as this storm is over

Now there is a novel and clever idea! Well done
E

 

[Monbees]

Now there is a novel and clever idea! Well done
E

Can't quite see it - I look forward to the pictures!

 

[Murox]

If any of you have asthma - save the inhailer sprays when used up, pop out the used spray containers and push the 2 holders together and you have a perfect 'periscope' shaped tunnel of death that can be put into the reducer hole or fitted to an underfloor hole.
Pictures to come as soon as this storm is over

I think I like the sound of that. Cant wait for the images.

 

[steve1958]

If any of you have asthma - save the inhailer sprays when used up, pop out the used spray containers and push the 2 holders together and you have a perfect 'periscope' shaped tunnel of death that can be put into the reducer hole or fitted to an underfloor hole.
Pictures to come as soon as this storm is over

Make sure that the outer entrance doesn't face upwards or it will fill with water when it rains

 

[bobthecob]

Is there any real reason for having a full width entrance?

No. Full width entrances are completely unnatural, impossible to defend properly, and don't (I believe) really lead to increased honey storage or reduced swarming.

Every year I notice the same pattern on forums:

May: New beekeepers are lambasted for not removing their entrance blocks completely, so they take them out
August: The same new beekeepers see their colonies decimated by wasps, and are lambasted for not having their entrance blocks in

My Paynes reducers never come out, and from August onwards they get a wooden block to halve the width of the already-reduced entrance.

 

[Swarm]

Seen quite a few feral colonies with a gaping hole as an entrance.

 

[HughMann]

Seen quite a few feral colonies with a gaping hole as an entrance.

The one in the side of my house (air brick) has been strong since June - now just a robbing station for my hive bees and wasps. Wayyy too big for them to defend - but tbh, it is exactly what I was hoping for - I was really getting worried about the weight of honey above my TV!

 

[BugsInABox]

Make sure that the outer entrance doesn't face upwards or it will fill with water when it rains

I was trying to work out why two were needed -but now I get it. "Periscope"

 

[Swarm]

Thought they swarmed, Hugh or was the swarm that arrived from somewhere else?

 

[Amari]

Ideally they would be made of something mouse nibble proof. I have to say that I left them on a couple of hives that needed .moving, dead easy to close them up on the night of the move! Just slid the door closed!

Do you leave the device attached in winter as a mouse guard - a two-in-one function? My two-in-one is JBM's design of under-floor entrance.

 

[enrico]

Do you leave the device attached in winter as a mouse guard - a two-in-one function? My two-in-one is JBM's design of under-floor entrance.

I don't as they are plastic so I reckon a mouse would be through them. I just swap them for mouse guards