Two new papers on honey bees

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Mitchell D. 2019 Thermal efficiency extends distance and variety for honey bee foragers: Analysis of the energetics of nectar collection and dessication by Apis mellifera. J. R. Soc. Interface 16. (doi:10.1098/rsif.2018.0879)
https://royalsocietypublishing.org/doi/10.1098/rsif.2018.0879

The desiccation of nectar to produce honey by honeybees (Apis mellifera L.) is an energy-intensive process, as it involves a quasi-isothermal change in the concentration of sugars fromtypically 20 to 80% by vaporization (honey ripen- ing). This analysis creates mathematical models for: the collected nectar to honey ratio; energy recovery ratio; honey energy margin; and the break-even distance, which includes the factors of nectar concentration and the distance to the nectar from the nest; energetics of desiccation and a new factor, thermal energy efficiency (TEE) of nectar desiccation. These models show a significant proportion of delivered energy in the nectar must be used in desiccation, and that there is a strong connection between TEE and nest lumped thermal con- ductance with colony behaviour. They show the connection between TEE and honeybee colony success, or failure, in the rate of return, in terms of distance or quality of foraging. Consequently, TEE is a key parameter in honeybee populations and foraging modelling. For bee keeping, it quantifies the summer benefits of a key hive design parameter, hive thermal conductance and gives a sound theoretical basis for improving honey yields, as seen in expanded polystyrene hives.

Peters JM, Peleg O, Mahadevan L. 2019 Collective ventilation in honeybee nests. J. R. Soc. Interface 16. (doi:10.1098/rsif.2018.0561)
https://royalsocietypublishing.org/doi/10.1098/rsif.2018.0561

European honey bees (Apis mellifera) live in large congested nest cavities with a single opening that limits passive ventilation. When the local air temperature exceeds a threshold, the nests are actively ventilated by bees fanning their wings at the nest entrance. Here, we show that colonies with relatively large nest entrances use an emergent ventilation strategy where fanning bees self-organize to form groups, separating regions of continuous inflow and outflow. The observed spatio-temporal patterns correlate the air velocity and air temperature along the entrances to the distribution of fanning bees. A mathematical model that couples these variables to known fanning behav- iour of individuals recapitulates their collective dynamics. Additionally, the model makes predictions about the temporal stability of the fanning group as a function of the temperature difference between the environment and the nest. Consistent with these predictions, we observe that the fanning groups drift, cling to the entrance boundaries, break-up and reform as the ambient temperature varies over a period of days. Overall, our study shows how honeybees use flow-mediated communication to self-organize into a steady state in fluctuating environments.
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How did I miss this Post!

Thanks for these, very much in line with what I'm interested in!

PS: Especially the first one ;-)
 
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Derek,
Am I misunderstanding something in your paper, it says that the TEE of a Tree Nest is 0.4, but a Poly Hive is 1. I thought that the polystyrene in a Poly Hive would have less thermal conductance and therefore a lower TEE (I know, a bit of over simplification) than the wood in a Tree Nest. Is the internal measurements / structure affecting the TEE, such as the height, width and domed roof & floor of each hive, or have I completely misunderstood it. Is thick wood that good an insulator / low conductor, than our ultra high tech. alternative?
 
Derek,
Am I misunderstanding something in your paper, it says that the TEE of a Tree Nest is 0.4, but a Poly Hive is 1. I thought that the polystyrene in a Poly Hive would have less thermal conductance and therefore a lower TEE (I know, a bit of over simplification) than the wood in a Tree Nest. Is the internal measurements / structure affecting the TEE, such as the height, width and domed roof & floor of each hive, or have I completely misunderstood it. Is thick wood that good an insulator / low conductor, than our ultra high tech. alternative?
Those numbers are thermal conductance not TEE
The shape is a key factor. the large top surface area of a hive 30mm thick versus the small top surface area and metres thick.

btw the bees in my artificial trees are flying at the moment 0C air temperature bright sunshine (-3 last night)
 
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When and how are you planning on doing the experiments to confirm your desiccation theories Derek?
 
btw the bees in my artificial trees are flying at the moment 0C air temperature bright sunshine (-3 last night)

Do you have any further details of your "artificial trees", I see the photos in your Public Profile section.
 
Do you have any further details of your "artificial trees", I see the photos in your Public Profile section.

There is an inner box made from 35mm thick scaffold board seconds ( a cheap source of substantial untreated wood) . The outer is 20mm walled 100mm roofed PIR foam and 0.5mm aluminium sheet. The inner is in 2 sections: the bottom section has a folded entrance to give 150mm long entrance tunnel, the top section has coving from roof to walls to round it out. All of the wooden sections are put together with SS torx screws. The PIR/ally cover is a drop over the inner. The internals of the entrances are scorched to darken them and rubbed with beeswax. The internals of the top sections just beeswaxed. This is done to make the boxes attractive to bees so that they run in easily. There were difficulties with the prototypes, which were down to the wood being too light in colour round the entrance. The finished AT are about 1.7m tall and weigh about 30kg

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Hi Derek,
Your trees intrigue me. Do you have any drawings of them? Are they sectional for inspection?.
 
I would love to understand the numbers regarding the wild colony that I hived last year. It was in a cast-iron bell-shaped animal feeder of some sort, two foot across the base, with a small crack and hole about 3/4 of the way up, looking for all the world like a cast-iron skep.

No doubt it got quite warm in the summer; less so in winter.
 
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Hi Derek,
Your trees intrigue me. Do you have any drawings of them? Are they sectional for inspection?.

No they are designed to be opened up only when I evict the bees so i can photograph their comb. Hence the stainless screws and a new set of one piece bee suits :) . Hopefully we will be able to rehouse them at that time,into one of the spare AT so that I can continue the experiment into next year. I dont have any drawings at the moment but I think I'm going to have to make some for any paper that gets written about them.
 
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..The internals of the entrances are scorched to darken them and rubbed with beeswax..

Darken, because the entrance would naturally be dark, and non-light reflective, interesting.

Your hive will have a very high amount of humidity, I'm guessing from my own basic observations / tinkering it'll be above the magic 80%, will be very interesting to see what the Varroa population is like come the new year, assuming you haven't treated them???
 
Derek

I may have missed it in all the equations, but you don't seem to consider the evaporated water and how it is removed from the hive. To make 1 Kg of honey @ 80% sugar from nectar @ 40% sugar the bees need to evaporate 1 Kg of water and remove it from the hive.

Assuming external RH of 80% @ 20 C and that the bees can achieve 100% RH @ 40 C, ~ 40 litres of air would need to be exchanged to remove 1 g of water from the hive. At 100% RH the rate of evaporation will be zero, so to maintain a reasonable desiccation rate the internal RH must be lower, which in turn means a greater volume of air must be exchanged to the outside. Assuming 80% internal RH, ~ 67 litres of air must be exchanged to remove 1 g of water.

All the incoming air must be heated by the bees to maintain the hive temperature.

The water could also be removed by condensation and then escape as liquid. A relatively cold surface is needed for condensation to occur, so this mechanism would be less significant with a better insulated hive.

I used data from these sites to do my (probably crude) calculations:
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/moisture-holding-capacity-air-d_281.html
https://www.engineersedge.com/calculators/air-density.htm
 
Derek

I may have missed it in all the equations, but you don't seem to consider the evaporated water and how it is removed from the hive. To make 1 Kg of honey @ 80% sugar from nectar @ 40% sugar the bees need to evaporate 1 Kg of water and remove it from the hive. ...

If 1000 grams (1kg) of nectar is collected with 400 grams (40%) of sugar in it, then to get it down to a 20% water content only 500 grams of water would need to be removed.

400 grams of sugar + 600 grams of water = 1000 grams of nectar
so,
IF 400 grams of sugar is in the honey, then this is the 80% of the sugar in the honey,
400 grams / 80 x 20 = 100 grams of water.

(I'm keeping things simple in comparisons to different substances with weights, etc.)

... I think ...
 
...
The water could also be removed by condensation and then escape as liquid. A relatively cold surface is needed for condensation to occur, so this mechanism would be less significant with a better insulated hive.

You can get warm condensation as well, go to a Dew Point calculator such as this one,
http://dpcalc.org/

now type in 35c for temperature (the upper brood temp. tolerated) and 80% Relative Humidity (upper limit that the bees tolerate until they seem to draw less humid air from below at the hive entrance - bees can't cure nectar to honey effectivley above this) and you will see that you get a Dew Point temp. of 31c, that's really high, so I think you will be getting a steady condensation on the walls of the Hive, BUT remember that the ceiling of the Hive has much more insulation (whether man made or a natural tree cavity) so I think the condensation will form on the walls first, I think.

The thing that really puzzles me, is where does the condensation go? I mean it trickles down to the bottom of the Hive, but where then, natural tree cavities have a bowl like floor, which is cleaned by the bees and covered in propolis, which as I understand is water proof, or is propolis permeable? Does it allow the water to soak away, I think it must, can the tree absorb it, or does it evaporate away and out through the entrance via natural ventilation???
 
If 1000 grams (1kg) of nectar is collected with 400 grams (40%) of sugar in it, then to get it down to a 20% water content only 500 grams of water would need to be removed.

400 grams of sugar + 600 grams of water = 1000 grams of nectar
so,
IF 400 grams of sugar is in the honey, then this is the 80% of the sugar in the honey,
400 grams / 80 x 20 = 100 grams of water.

(I'm keeping things simple in comparisons to different substances with weights, etc.)

... I think ...

Yes that's correct - so to make 1 Kg of honey the bees need to start with 2 Kg of nectar and evaporate 1 Kg of water from it.

(Ignoring the small amount of water consumed by inversion.)
 
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You can get warm condensation as well, go to a Dew Point calculator such as this one,
http://dpcalc.org/

now type in 35c for temperature (the upper brood temp. tolerated) and 80% Relative Humidity (upper limit that the bees tolerate until they seem to draw less humid air from below at the hive entrance - bees can't cure nectar to honey effectivley above this) and you will see that you get a Dew Point temp. of 31c, that's really high, so I think you will be getting a steady condensation on the walls of the Hive, BUT remember that the ceiling of the Hive has much more insulation (whether man made or a natural tree cavity) so I think the condensation will form on the walls first, I think.

The thing that really puzzles me, is where does the condensation go? I mean it trickles down to the bottom of the Hive, but where then, natural tree cavities have a bowl like floor, which is cleaned by the bees and covered in propolis, which as I understand is water proof, or is propolis permeable? Does it allow the water to soak away, I think it must, can the tree absorb it, or does it evaporate away and out through the entrance via natural ventilation???

The dew point is at 100% RH; so 80% RH @ 35 C must correspond to 100% RH at 31 C if the calculator is correct. That's because the maximum mass of water that a given volume of air can support increases with increasing temperature.
 
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What is your calculation, when bees collect xx amount raspberry nectar and they get ready honey 7 kg/day?

That is a real case. 50 kg honey in 7 days in balance hive.
.
 
The amount of water evaporated will depend on the nectar sugar concentration. If it is 40% sugar then to make 7 Kg of honey, 7 Kg (ie 7 L) of water must be evaporated and removed from the hive each day.

Did you see any water running out of the hive?
 
The amount of water evaporated will depend on the nectar sugar concentration. If it is 40% sugar then to make 7 Kg of honey, 7 Kg (ie 7 L) of water must be evaporated and removed from the hive each day.

Did you see any water running out of the hive?

Solid bottom, and in summer there are no condensation effects in the hive. In heavy flow hives tend to be 35C warm.
 

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