Top Bar Hive

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My bees are very laid back. The picture below shows the white board below one of my TBHs..(pallets) just slides out. As it's not an integral part of the hive, the bees appear to never clean it...

Nice hive ... lots of insulation in the roof by the look of it !
 
Nice hive ... lots of insulation in the roof by the look of it !

Thanks

A 50mm thick layer.

In use at present with carpet underlay (fabric) on top of the top bars as well...

Pallet wood.
 
spent a few hours yesterday knocking this up, wash out today, will insulate roof and verroa board.
 
Using frames would have me calling it a "Log Hive" rather than a tbh?
Nice job by the way!
VM


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
The frame in picture was just to ensure it fitted, will attach 5 frames from Nuc to underside of top bars then remaining bars the traditional method.
 
The frame in picture was just to ensure it fitted, will attach 5 frames from Nuc to underside of top bars then remaining bars the traditional method.

You will need to use frames throughout. normal top bar hives have sloping sides to reduce the amount by which they attach the combs to the sides, I suspect with this you would find inspection a real problem if you don't continue to use frames. This would be as in the video, and not the normal kenyan top-bar hive.
 
I saw the video removing the honey from the TBH cutting it out, very messy. On youtube somebody made topbars with
sides
to stop the bees attaching to the hive, that's what I shall be doing.
 
As I said , you in reality have constructed a long (dare say) Dartington type hive and not in fact a Top Bar hive!
A Top Bar Hive is just that, relying on the shape of the hive to prevent comb being attached to the sides rather than the use of frames as containment! The sloping sides of your hive will almost certainly encourage brace comb where the gap between frame side bar and hive wall exceeds a bee space?
VM


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
The frame in picture was just to ensure it fitted, will attach 5 frames from Nuc to underside of top bars then remaining bars the traditional method.

That will work but the only problem you may find, in due course, is that the combs on the frameless top bars could get quite large and may be difficult to handle. Bees have a habit of not conforming to what you would like them to do and it's entirely possible that they will start comb building at one side of the bar and attach the comb to the hive side ! As you have actually constructed a 'Long hive' you might consider putting some side bars on the top bars and leave a bee space at the sides. You can still go foundationless but side bars could make it a bit easier for you later on.

Its fine if they just use the top bars for storage, as you probably won't need to remove them unless you want to harvest some combs. However, if the colony moves the brood area onto your frameless top bars then inspection could become a bit of a gamble - particularly if we get any warm weather !

You may need to keep a close eye on things. Nice hive though.

EDIT:

Ahhh ... just caught up with your later post - side bars it is then !
 
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As I said , you in reality have constructed a long (dare say) Dartington type hive and not in fact a Top Bar hive!
A Top Bar Hive is just that, relying on the shape of the hive to prevent comb being attached to the sides rather than the use of frames as containment! The sloping sides of your hive will almost certainly encourage brace comb where the gap between frame side bar and hive wall exceeds a bee space?
VM


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Careful ... he's probably listening ... are we even allowed to say D...t...n ?
 
Without wishing to appear critical, removing top bars in that hive will be difficult as the vars go virtually up to the sides of the walls. Fine if you have spaced frames but if you have non spaced topbars, moving them with a hive tool is going to be very very difficult.



If you look at my photo you can see the edges of the bars are easily accessible as the roof comes down and covers them only when closed.
I would suggest moving the side boards which protect the bars outwards about 2cms on either side to give easier access.
 
Without wishing to appear critical, removing top bars in that hive will be difficult as the vars go virtually up to the sides of the walls. Fine if you have spaced frames but if you have non spaced topbars, moving them with a hive tool is going to be very very difficult.



If you look at my photo you can see the edges of the bars are easily accessible as the roof comes down and covers them only when closed.
I would suggest moving the side boards which protect the bars outwards about 2cms on either side to give easier access.

Yep ... you're right - I didn't notice that. He will need to put a fillet in where the existing step is for the frames and make the top bars wide enough to sit on the rim of the hive. Or - put a couple of runners on the existing step and just stick with conventional spaced frames ?
 
Am on the allotment at moment will put up pics when finished. Cheers for all comments most helpful.
 
Nearly there, all it requires is a periscope entrance and more home made frames. On the left hand side there is enough room for 5 nuc frames with bar on top. Looking at second pic the frames will be too close, so a space bar is going to be needed? Insulation care of fishmonger, more to go on top of top bars. Hive made out of pallets and scrap wood on site, had to buy door stop wood to make frames/bars £15 not bad??? Whats it going to be TBH, Long Hive Darl+++++n.???????????????
 
Check the spacing at the bottom between the fame bottom and the mesh floor. looks to be > a bee space. (looks like it is but hard to tell)

If it is, LOTS of brace comb = PIA = angry bees.
 
On the top of my head there is about an inch.
 
wont you end up squashing bees as the frame sits level on the rebate at the top.
 
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No I will put a spacer on top.
 

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