Top Bar Hive - Question

[natureguy]

Hi all,

Just a quick one about Tbh setup.

What is the adequate distance to leave between the top bar placement.

Does it matter if a bee can pass through into the roof cavity, should they not be able to get into the roof cavity.

Many thanks.

 

[pargyle]

The top bars are usually 38mm in width and conventionally need to be pushed up together so there are no gaps. It's a good idea to put a sheet of polythene over the top of the bars and some insulation (50mm of Celotex or KIngspan) under the roof. The more you can do to help the bees keep their cavity temperature at the level they need (particularly in thin walled Top bar hives) the more they will thrive. Top bar hives have a reputation in the UK for overwinter losses - isolation starvation because they are too cold too move the cluster is a risk. If you are new to beekeeping they are not an ideal hive to start with .. they take a bit of knowledge to look after.

 

[natureguy]

The top bars are usually 38mm in width and conventionally need to be pushed up together so there are no gaps. It's a good idea to put a sheet of polythene over the top of the bars and some insulation (50mm of Celotex or KIngspan) under the roof. The more you can do to help the bees keep their cavity temperature at the level they need (particularly in thin walled Top bar hives) the more they will thrive. Top bar hives have a reputation in the UK for overwinter losses - isolation starvation because they are too cold too move the cluster is a risk. If you are new to beekeeping they are not an ideal hive to start with .. they take a bit of knowledge to look after.

Thank you for the information.

My top bars are currently 38mm width, will be making some thinner ones at 32mm for the 8 closest the entrance.

The wall thickness all around the hive are 24mm.

Will make sure there are no gaps for the topbars, I am still building the roof and will make sure there will be adequate insulation.

Lucky for the kingspan celotex as I have 100mm thick stuff left over from underfloor.

Should the insulation be removable for the summer?

I went with Topbar as it will suit my needs I think the best.

Thank you for the advice.

 

[pargyle]

Thank you for the information.

My top bars are currently 38mm width, will be making some thinner ones at 32mm for the 8 closest the entrance.

The wall thickness all around the hive are 24mm.

Will make sure there are no gaps for the topbars, I am still building the roof and will make sure there will be adequate insulation.

Lucky for the kingspan celotex as I have 100mm thick stuff left over from underfloor.

Should the insulation be removable for the summer?

I went with Topbar as it will suit my needs I think the best.

Thank you for the advice.

Leave the insulation on all the year round - fit it permanently into the roof.

What drew you towards a top bar hive ?

 

[natureguy]

Leave the insulation on all the year round - fit it permanently into the roof.

What drew you towards a top bar hive ?

Possibly the fact that it's more natural for the bees, the lack of intervention on the bees themselves as I am not sure if I will be harvesting the honey, unless it is to reduce the chance of swarming.

The lack of lifting required and I guess the aesthetics.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

will be making some thinner ones at 32mm for the 8 closest the entrance.

why?

Possibly the fact that it's more natural for the bees, the lack of intervention on the bees themselves as I am not sure if I will be harvesting the honey, unless it is to reduce the chance of swarming.

The lack of lifting required and I guess the aesthetics.

how do you work that one out?

 

[natureguy]

why?

how do you work that one out?

From what I have read from different guides.

 

[pargyle]

From what I have read from different guides.

I started where you are ... tore down my top bar hives and made a long deep hive with 14 x 12 frames (25 of them). There is nothing 'natural' about a top bar hive - it's not the shape that bees would choose given the option, they prefer to build vertically rather than horizontally. The narrow sections of a TBH are difficult for them as the sloping sides restrict the width of the comb.

If you are thinking you can just put some bees in a TBH and leave them to it then tear your TBH down and stop now. I'm not being unkind - you HAVE to inspect your bees - for disease, for stores (at some times in the year - even if you leave them all their honey) - there's times when they could run out of stores. You cannot just allow them to swarm - it may be the bees natural behaviour but it's irresponsible and antisocial as a beekeeper.

Yes. it is possible to keep your inspections light touch - but that ability comes with a few years under your belt. Inspecting a TBH with free comb under the top bars is difficult - as an early doors beekeeper your would be better with a framed hive.

You have a lot to learn if you think taking honey off them will reduce the chance of swarming .. bit more reading to do.

A long deep hive like mine or a Dartington is a better option if you don't want to lift - you can set it at a comfortable height to lift the frames out - the frames can be simple (I made my own for a while) - they are great hives for bees - they make big colonies but are not massive honey producers. If you find queen cells and need to do something about it you can do a horizontal split with a division board.

You would not be the first beekeeper to set off on the path you hope to follow - and you certainly would not be the first who, after realising the downsides to a TBH - changed course fairly rapidly and moved towards a framed hive - in whatever format suits you.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/99514363@N06/albums/72157634865981506/

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I am not sure if I will be harvesting the honey, unless it is to reduce the chance of swarming.

you considered an ant farm?

 

[drex]

I started off with conventional framed hives and after a couple of years made two TBH's. I am glad I had some experience at handling bees before using top bars. Like Pargyle, in the end I converted them to long horizontal hives taking National frames. I agree with everything Pargyle says. It is irresponsible to be totally hands off. You have a duty of care after all.

 

[Delgirl]

I got a long horizontal langstroth hive as an experiment to save my aging back. Had it two years now but did not feel attracted to the sloping side version as kit would not be compatible with my other hives. They have overwintered ok with clear plastic crown board from The Plastic People who make to measure with feeder holes if required which I do use. Kingspan insulation in winter/spring but have taken off in the summer. Still a work in progress but the bees seem to be building up at last and easier inspections for anyone with back problems. Downside is honey built on larger frames so adequate extractor also required.