Timber sizes don't match National Hive dimensions.

[DontWorryBeeHappy]

OK it's winter, I have just retired and I fancy trying my hand at making some hive parts. I know people say it's just as cheap to buy them flat packed etc, etc but I want to have a play using my new router and bench saw. I appreciate the advice about buying flat pack but hey, I like making things, I want to improve my woodworking skills and for the first time in my life I have some spare time, so what the heck.

My problem is this;
Supers need to be 150mm deep.
Timber at my local timber merchant is bought as 150mm deep then planed so the size when sold is about 146mm (even though it's advertised as 150mm, which appears to be the industry standard practice.) 146mm is too shallow for a super. There would be no bee space.

The next of timber I can find commonly sold is 175mm, so if I bought that and cut it down that would mean two problems;

1) Lots of waste.

2) If my bench saw is even slightly off the cut won't be perfect and the super wont be level.

I have done some research and someone has suggested making 5mm fillets but that sounds like a lot of hard work. Surely there must be a simple answer that I am too daft to see. Has anyone come across this problem and what was the best solution?


Here's looking forward to some wise words of wisdom (other than to buy a Tho**es second flat pack!)

 

[SixFooter]

The easiest way is to use 18mm ply for the ends and sides and softwood for the rails.
The sides need to be accurately made although there's a bit of leeway in the rails.
The boxes should sit perfectly on top of a flat surface and each other


I use a plunge tracksaw which is much quicker and more accurate than a bench saw. Also when cutting ply, there's much less break out with this type of saw.

Fragile planet sell flat pack hives made like this although probably not cut with a track saw.

 

[BeeBus]

Dont buy wood, scavenge. Go round building sites look in skips then use sawbench to get required sizes, alot more rewarding plus if you make a mistake its cost you nowt

 

[Oscarmonster]

Your timber merchant should be able to cut the 175mm down to the required sizes if you are not sure you will be accurate enough.
Wastage is fairly inevitable when it comes to woodwork.

 

[yeogi75]

buy flat pack hive parts,buy the larger size timber use offcuts to make the rails,and set up your saw to flat pack hive parts ie use as patern

 

[REDWOOD]

I agree there is no off the shelf timber that is suitable for a hive, every thing has to be cut down to size, I am going to invest in a biscuit joiner this Christmas for joining boards so they will be big enough for a 12 x 14 brood box. As mentioned skips and recycling places are great for picking up wood and often the old planks will last longer than the stuff you buy in builders merchants. plywood is another option which is good for supers as they don't stay out all winter unless your on a brood and a half, plywood grades vary try to get them with no loose bits on the cut ends. Good luck

 

[pargyle]

The likes of Wickes sell 5mm pine battens in 1.8m lengths - its a bit too wide but glued and screwed or nailed to the bearing face of the super after it's made will give you the required depth - then all you have to do is plane off the surplus down to the face of your timber. If you decide to use ply for the boxes (as someone suggested) then it is good practice to glue a solid timber facing piece on the cut edges of the ply to protect the end grain - ply boxes will last a lot longer if you do this and protect them well with a water based timber preservative. Go for it - whatever you build should always be cheaper and more rewarding than buying stuff ~ don't be afraid to go skip browsing !

 

[oliver90owner]

The likes of Wickes sell 5mm pine battens in 1.8m lengths

There is half the problem. Wickes etc sell their 'waste' offcuts as thin sections!

Few out there know how to use a plane. Joinery workshops used to have any sizes of offcut ready to use up. Part of the skill of the shop was in using up as many of the offcuts as possible. Now, it is buy the square edged, planed boards (ready cut to length, if possible) and call that making hives from scratch.

OK, I use a planer-thicknesser these days as it makes life easier and quicker to get the sections required, but there are other ways.

As I have said before, hives can be made using a router as the only power tool, cutting, thicknessing, rebating and jointing etc. I don't do it that way because using a range of power tools is simpler, easier and faster.

 

[blackcavebees]

with RAB

Thing is time, I've spent the last few evenings making Hivemaker's mating nucs from off cuts. Would it not be cheaper to buy poly ones? Probably! But there is the enjoyment of making your own. Problem is repetition, like when making frames or multiple supers, with a limited tool set it becomes tedious hand planing timber you've had to cut from bigger stock because you're just a few sixteenths shy with off the shelf stock. Did it a few times for enjoyment and the badge but I'd be better working minimum wage stacking shelves in the warm than standing in the cold making work for myself.

As an aside, I've found that hardwood window sills etc scavenged from skips are great ripped for filler strips to make up the difference to stock boards and they give a good edge to seal boxes.

Have fun, and keep your fingers well away from the blades!

 

[MuswellMetro]

convert to langstroths, 146mm is the depth of a langstroth super


or as I have seen supers boxes that fit on nationals of 18 1/2" commercial dimension at 146mm depth with frames made of commercial top bars and langstroth side bars..

.ok box specific but the boxes were made out of 146mm floor boards in just in a square then rebated with a router to accept the frames, very cheap

 

[SixFooter]

with RAB

Thing is time, I've spent the last few evenings making Hivemaker's mating nucs from off cuts. Would it not be cheaper to buy poly ones? Probably! But there is the enjoyment of making your own. Problem is repetition, like when making frames or multiple supers, with a limited tool set it becomes tedious hand planing timber you've had to cut from bigger stock because you're just a few sixteenths shy with off the shelf stock. Did it a few times for enjoyment and the badge but I'd be better working minimum wage stacking shelves in the warm than standing in the cold making work for myself.

As an aside, I've found that hardwood window sills etc scavenged from skips are great ripped for filler strips to make up the difference to stock boards and they give a good edge to seal boxes.

Have fun, and keep your fingers well away from the blades!

Yes, it's interesting making the first stand/super/ feeder/ nuc. It's easier making the second and third, but It gets tedious from then on. Making the same thing over and over again. Personally, I got to the point where I only make things if I can save a significant amount of money or what I make is a better design than what I can buy. Mating nucs dont qualify. Hive Stands do,6 frame/5 frame nucs do,plywood supers do, miller feeders a la Hedgerow do and as I prefer a chunky home made floor with a bottom entrance to the flimsy things supplied with national hives, these do as well.

 

[DontWorryBeeHappy]

Thanks to everyone who replied.

There are a variety of ideas and everyone has a positive side. That said like everything in life you have to decide which way to go once you have choices. I have decided to use two suggestions in combination.

I have found a timber merchant who will cut me some wider wood down to size for free (well the cuts are free, the timber is market price obviously). Thanks for that suggestion Oscarmonster.

I have also got a pre-cut hive (Thor**s) super and I am using the parts as templates. Thanks for that idea yeogi75.

Not the cheapest solution I know, there are easier ways as well. That said I am only playing at it. Here's to a bit of fun and hopefully I will have some more supers and intact fingers for the next season.

I am grateful for every response, thank you all.