Icing Sugar
New Bee
Dear all,
This winter's book pile includes "Beekeeping at Buckfast Abbey." I was quite surprised by three things I have read in it. They do not seem to reflect mainstream ideas or practice that I have encountered elsewhere (admittedly 42 years later). Just out of interest, do any of you follow the following philosophy/approaches... and how do you get on?
My own recent experience is as follows: This autumn, I marked and clipped a well-established queen and her behaviour seemed fine when I first put her back in the hive on a frame of brood. However, within less than a minute she was being chased and treated roughly by the workers and she was subsequently killed. I assumed that the paint had a taste/odour to it that resulted in her being perceived as foreign. Ever since then I have used Snelgrove’s water method for queen introduction/reintroduction with 100% success. In my experience, whenever a queen is placed in water you can just perceive a fine film appear on the surface of the water which I assume to be cuticular chemicals. I had assumed this method to work by temporarily denuding the queen of all identifying odour so that, from an olfactory perspective, she was “invisible” when first put back and her characteristic odour gradually built up again over subsequent hours. However, might this method work in a different way – does dunking a queen in water simply alter her behaviour so that she becomes very quiet and submissive on being (re)introduced to the colony?
I would have thought that odour and behaviour are both important. What is your experience/understanding?
I have no experience in this whatsoever for the simple reason that I don’t really like to transfer bees between colonies. I certainly don’t equalise my colonies in the spring. My preference is to compare how my colonies perform by treating them all as equally as possible for as much of the time as possible. At the end of each season I can see which colonies did best in terms of handling and performance (my hives are irregularly positioned and oriented to minimise drifting) and I preferentially use these colonies to build/restock my apiary. I also don’t like to transfer bees/brood between colonies in case it spreads disease. Lastly, I don’t unite weak colonies because, as far as I am concerned, “weak plus weak doesn’t equal strong” – the reason for weakness is not necessarily eradicated by uniting. Therefore, my need to unite frames from different colonies has so far been negligible.
Do any of you transfer frames of workers and brood between hives using no other safeguard than keeping the donor frames in the light for a suitably long period of time? If so, how long do you keep them in the light for? Does this damage any brood on the frame, particularly in spring? How do you think this method actually works?... is it genuinely a calming influence of light on the bees or have you simply left the frames out for so long that all of the flying bees have returned to their original hive, leaving a frame of brood and young nurse bees to go into the recipient colony? How close can you get to doing a full unite this way???
Another question: aren’t nearly all colonies in the UK “mongrel” these days?
Again, I have no experience of managing bees like this in spring and I have not knowingly met anyone who does. It seems like a lot of unnecessary time and effort, with the hives being opened far more frequently than I would want to do at this time of year. Does it really accelerate the rate of spring build up…for which I would have thought sufficient space is needed? Doesn’t it increase the risk of early swarming if you are tardy with putting the next frame in? How specifically is this approach believed to reduce the risk of an outbreak of Nosema? Brother Adam used modified Dadant hives – roughly how frequently would additional frames need to be added to a national hive if this method was replicated?
Any thoughts/experiences in any of these three areas would be gratefully received. I am not disputing the great man for one moment. He is pretty much an undisputed giant in the beekeeping world. However, compared to many other authors, he can come across as being so certain in his views on occasions that I for one can be taken aback, particularly when his assertions appear to be quite different from anything I have seen or read elsewhere.
Thanks.
This winter's book pile includes "Beekeeping at Buckfast Abbey." I was quite surprised by three things I have read in it. They do not seem to reflect mainstream ideas or practice that I have encountered elsewhere (admittedly 42 years later). Just out of interest, do any of you follow the following philosophy/approaches... and how do you get on?
- QUOTE ONE
[*]“The acceptance of a queen is not determined, as hitherto generally assumed, by “colony odour,” but by her behaviour. A fully mature queen, one that has been laying for a considerable time, will have lost her original nervousness and will behave sedately and calmly. When in that condition, her acceptance is assured irrespective of the safeguards generally considered as essential. Odour, or “colony odour” – if there is such a thing, which I doubt – plays no role in the acceptance of a queen. The behaviour of a queen is in turn dependent on her condition at the time of liberation”.
[*]
My own recent experience is as follows: This autumn, I marked and clipped a well-established queen and her behaviour seemed fine when I first put her back in the hive on a frame of brood. However, within less than a minute she was being chased and treated roughly by the workers and she was subsequently killed. I assumed that the paint had a taste/odour to it that resulted in her being perceived as foreign. Ever since then I have used Snelgrove’s water method for queen introduction/reintroduction with 100% success. In my experience, whenever a queen is placed in water you can just perceive a fine film appear on the surface of the water which I assume to be cuticular chemicals. I had assumed this method to work by temporarily denuding the queen of all identifying odour so that, from an olfactory perspective, she was “invisible” when first put back and her characteristic odour gradually built up again over subsequent hours. However, might this method work in a different way – does dunking a queen in water simply alter her behaviour so that she becomes very quiet and submissive on being (re)introduced to the colony?
I would have thought that odour and behaviour are both important. What is your experience/understanding?
- QUOTE TWO
[*]“Colony odour (if it exists) is of no significance in the uniting of bees of different colonies. The factor making for success is once more the behaviour of the bees. Every bee keeper is aware that exposure to light has a calming effect on bees, and any which have been exposed thus for some minutes will peaceably join with bees of other colonies without the need for any other precaution. During the whole of the season, when for any reason a transference of bees from one colony to another is necessary, we employ no other safeguard to prevent fighting than exposure to light. When dealing with mongrels or races of exceptional nervous disposition extra care is called for”.
[*]
I have no experience in this whatsoever for the simple reason that I don’t really like to transfer bees between colonies. I certainly don’t equalise my colonies in the spring. My preference is to compare how my colonies perform by treating them all as equally as possible for as much of the time as possible. At the end of each season I can see which colonies did best in terms of handling and performance (my hives are irregularly positioned and oriented to minimise drifting) and I preferentially use these colonies to build/restock my apiary. I also don’t like to transfer bees/brood between colonies in case it spreads disease. Lastly, I don’t unite weak colonies because, as far as I am concerned, “weak plus weak doesn’t equal strong” – the reason for weakness is not necessarily eradicated by uniting. Therefore, my need to unite frames from different colonies has so far been negligible.
Do any of you transfer frames of workers and brood between hives using no other safeguard than keeping the donor frames in the light for a suitably long period of time? If so, how long do you keep them in the light for? Does this damage any brood on the frame, particularly in spring? How do you think this method actually works?... is it genuinely a calming influence of light on the bees or have you simply left the frames out for so long that all of the flying bees have returned to their original hive, leaving a frame of brood and young nurse bees to go into the recipient colony? How close can you get to doing a full unite this way???
Another question: aren’t nearly all colonies in the UK “mongrel” these days?
- QUOTE THREE
- “After the equalisation and requeening, colonies are left undisturbed until the middle of April. During this period of the season they are kept restricted to the number of combs they can fully cover. When thus managed the development will go forward more rapidly. The risk of an outbreak of Nosema will likewise be thus considerably minimised, if not completely avoided. Unless the weather has been particularly unfavourable, the colonies will by mid-April be in need of an additional comb and a further one about ten days subsequently. This giving of additional space is done step-by-step and by the end of May or early in June each colony should be in possession of its full complement of twelve combs.” (NB. Elsewhere in the book he explains that the average number of combs after equalisation is 7 in a good year, falling to 4 in a very poor year).
Again, I have no experience of managing bees like this in spring and I have not knowingly met anyone who does. It seems like a lot of unnecessary time and effort, with the hives being opened far more frequently than I would want to do at this time of year. Does it really accelerate the rate of spring build up…for which I would have thought sufficient space is needed? Doesn’t it increase the risk of early swarming if you are tardy with putting the next frame in? How specifically is this approach believed to reduce the risk of an outbreak of Nosema? Brother Adam used modified Dadant hives – roughly how frequently would additional frames need to be added to a national hive if this method was replicated?
Any thoughts/experiences in any of these three areas would be gratefully received. I am not disputing the great man for one moment. He is pretty much an undisputed giant in the beekeeping world. However, compared to many other authors, he can come across as being so certain in his views on occasions that I for one can be taken aback, particularly when his assertions appear to be quite different from anything I have seen or read elsewhere.
Thanks.