Swienty poly Langstroth - Beespace

Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum

Help Support Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ROACHMAN

House Bee
Joined
Jul 17, 2009
Messages
343
Reaction score
1
Location
North Wiltshire uk
Hive Type
Langstroth
Number of Hives
50+
Managed to buy some of these from ******.

I have noticed that the top bee space is only about 5mm (should be 8-9mm in order for the bees to get through).

The only way I can see to remedy this is to file down the plastic runners by 3mm.

I cant understand why this should be the case, has anyone else noticed this or am I doing something wrong?
 
I've not had a problem with the deeps.
I've had the mediums from 2 different moulds where the bottom spacing is different though.
 
Sure I read somewhere about a batch of hives where beespace was a 'shared' top/bottom. Almost sure they were Swienty but wouldn't swear to it.
 
Cheers HM, but it wasn't that thread, I'd heard about the MB hives. I'm sure these were Swienty hives that somebody got from a supplier. Whether discussed in a thread here (maybe even off topic comments) or in the chatroom I can't remember. Never mind.
 
4-5mm is a beespace, around 8-10mm is also beespace but for two bees back to back by my understanding (give or take a mm).

I think the definition of beespace(s) is a little wooly and that distinction is not often made clear. I'm happy to be corrected, but I'm under the impression that back to back is only required, if tolerated at all, between combs and wider than 4-5mm elsewhere may end up being narrowed with wax or propolis.
 
Managed to buy some of these from ******.

I have noticed that the top bee space is only about 5mm (should be 8-9mm in order for the bees to get through).

The only way I can see to remedy this is to file down the plastic runners by 3mm.

I cant understand why this should be the case, has anyone else noticed this or am I doing something wrong?
you don't need to do anything with them. I have been using them since I started beekeeping. Their metal queen excluder fits snugly into the space you are talking about
 
Managed to buy some of these from ******.

I have noticed that the top bee space is only about 5mm (should be 8-9mm in order for the bees to get through).

The only way I can see to remedy this is to file down the plastic runners by 3mm.

I cant understand why this should be the case, has anyone else noticed this or am I doing something wrong?

What frames are you using? Frames from different makers sometimes have different lugs. US and NZ frames here for example sit higher in the box due to the big wedgy lugs. In the case of those it does go almost to a half and half situation.

We do not have any issues with the bees having problems getting over the top bars unless the lugs have wax/propolis on them and sit high, or the top bars start to get warped.

IF you want to slim down the runners to make the frames sit lower it works fine through a circular saw, and you only need to take off about the width of the saw cut.
 
Both the Swienty and MB appear to have the same demensions with 5mm top bee space and this applies to both wooden and plastic frames I have used.

The bottom bee space is 5mm with the plastic frames and 2mm with the wooden ones (Th*****) so taking 3mm from the runners may not help.


you don't need to do anything with them. I have been using them since I started beekeeping. Their metal queen excluder fits snugly into the space you are talking about

Snoop, does the metal QE sit directly on the top bars or is there a space?
 
Both the Swienty and MB appear to have the same demensions with 5mm top bee space and this applies to both wooden and plastic frames I have used.

The bottom bee space is 5mm with the plastic frames and 2mm with the wooden ones (Th*****) so taking 3mm from the runners may not.

Seen them running together in Denmark and they are NOT the same. The PH ones, as sold by MB are very different in how high the frames sit. They indeed were so close to the flush roof, and worse, if a normal one was sitting on top, there was inadequate beeway and they waxed and/or propolise them together, and the other way round make a mess of ladder comb. Great was the gnashing of teeth.

Checking the bee space at the bottom may just tell you about variations in the frames. Some of the plastic frames are moulded for the North American standard size for a Lang. deep, and some are moulded for an Aus/NZ size, and little cognisance is paid to this. Aus NZ frames are made slightly less deep than the usual international standard as, for historical reasons due to availability of very close in size wood, the were made with boxes just a coupe of mm less deep, and the length of the side bars trimmed by that much too so as to fit. I raise this as some of the plastic frames sold in the UK ARE made in NZ and are the short size. If you ever acquire some Aus or NZ boxes, and have not stated that they are for the European/North American size, they turn up a little too short for our frames and also bottom bee space. I went out to check some of our stuff in store after the previous post and indeed in the newest ones (the mould was rebuilt about 2009 due it wearing out) the point made is partially true, though the frames we have made to our own spec with UK/European thickness lugs sitting on the runners still sit at a proper height allowing adequate bee circulation space, the USA frames are a little higher in the box and do result in a split bee space and some issue getting over the top of the frames under a flush roof or feeder base..

Making the boxes non standard for the market they are in is really an unneccessary modification, with the main thought being to tie you in to that design.

In the referred to thread earlier mention is made of why are they made for Dadant frames but are a Langstroth box? Well, what is called in the UK a Dadant frame is not really called that anywhere else. It is normally called a medium depth, and called Dadant depth in the UK as it IS the same depth as a Dadant shallow. Internationally actual Langstroth shallows are a relatively unusual box, normally used for cut comb. Langstroth boxes are in 5 standard sizes, shallow, medium or Illinois, intermediate, standard deep, jumbo deep. The two common sizes are the medium and the standard deep. Hence the moulds are made primarily to make the mediums and the standards though some also do the jumbo. Thus, in the UK, you will be advised to get Dadant frames for the supers, as they are actually mediums not shallows.
 
Perhaps a few more variations need to be added to the sub species.


Langstroth equipment accounts for about 75% of worldwide beekeeping kit, however within that term 'Langstroth standard' there are about ninety sub species, some of which are totally incompatible with each other.

http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/lang.html
 
Im using Maise wood frames, is the general consensus that I should leave the runners alone as 5mm is an adequate beespace ?
 
Hi John F

The design of QE from that manufacturer sit snugly on the frames at the outside of the frames , but the way its designed it has a slight rim & the rounded metal bars of the excluder are up off them a small bit. I never have any trouble with them unless a drone goes into a super during an inspection & dies getting stuck above the excluder. Small bit of wax build up between the rolled bars of the QE in some hives only. I also buy my frames from that manufacturer & have no problems , just wire them & melt the foundation with a power supply. No modifications necessary. Bees manage fine
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top