Swienty national Mod - lip chewing | Frame end spacing | Bee Space for double brood | Entrance etc

Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum

Help Support Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jun 12, 2017
Messages
557
Reaction score
392
Location
Warwickshire
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
150+
Hi

Quick and easy mod(s) to fix the lack of rebate (double brood) and lifting the frames off the ledge, also frame end spacing (too much space) and lip chewing.

Thin lip - add a 19x2mm plastic bar along the inner lip to stop the bees chewing, also adds some strength. Also reduces the space on the frame ends too.

Lifting frames off the ledge and allowing TBS - Take the angled plastic, glue x3 cocktail sticks into the corner joint (each end and middle). Glue onto the edge of poly ledge, this lifts the outside edge giving a lift to the frames to avoid crushing bees, also gives a nice 4.5 mm bee space above frames to stop the box above crushing bees.

Ideal if using these for double brood and stops them welding the boxes together.

Cheers
 

Attachments

  • 20220104_190924.jpg
    20220104_190924.jpg
    1.4 MB
  • 20220104_191003.jpg
    20220104_191003.jpg
    1.1 MB
  • 20220104_191018.jpg
    20220104_191018.jpg
    1.6 MB
  • 20220104_191044.jpg
    20220104_191044.jpg
    1.1 MB
Those are neat
I have modified my Swienty boxes by adding a plastic rim to the top to make top space and therefore kept the frame runner in place
The gap at the end of the lugs is a nuisance isn’t it.
 
All the DIY stores sell these in different sizes, cheap too.

I'm still pondering which poly National I buy in mass and until then these Swienty units are decent for the money, I've been using them for years as a single brood but moved to double last year so needed to fix these issues. Varnish on the lip also stops the chewing and unless using wood supers with a rebate they can't get at the lip anyway as the Swienty boxes sit on the lugs. They might be able to attack the corners but the bar stops that nonsense.
 
Another mod - The floors are great but a pain to reduce entrance or close when moving, so I'm replacing with a framed mesh floor and placed a plastic entrance on the brood box giving far more control etc, I'll use the waste plastic bar from the lip mod to line the bottom so bees don't chew it.
 

Attachments

  • 20220105_190943.jpg
    20220105_190943.jpg
    1.7 MB
Ha thanks, I've looked at those but how do you close them up? BMH knocks up some nice floors.

I'm still pondering which poly National I buy in mass and until then these Swienty units are decent for the money...

Just because you mentioned BMH he touched on the subject of Swienty hives not so long ago in his beekeeping regrets video:

 
I was lucky that when I started making these floors my mother asked me to take a foam mattress she had as a spare put me up for my sister's visitors up to the dump, the foam was twenty two inches wide, three inches thick and was slashed every three inches for comfort, so with very little effort with a stanley knife I have a sack full of entrance blockers!
 
Just because you mentioned BMH he touched on the subject of Swienty hives not so long ago in his beekeeping regrets video:



100% agreed with this and you should not have to mod units due to faults. I'm glad I worked this out (with help from the 2018 thread on here where we discuss the issues) early on, I've only 10 units, 100+ is rather depressing.

So, I need to make a decision on the Abelo unit(s), I've the 12 frame to test and it seems like a very solid unit and might order the V1 too, my concern is they bin V1/2 and push the V3 and assume a V4 at some point. I had settled on the BS hive (very good) but discontinued for the foreseeable.
 
Last edited:
100% agreed with this and you should not have to mod units due to faults. I'm glad I worked this out (with help from the 2018 thread on here where we discuss the issues) early on, I've only 10 units, 100+ is rather depressing.

So, I need to make a decision on the Abelo unit(s), I've the 12 frame to test and it seems like a very solid unit and might order the V1 too, my concern is they bin V1/2 and push the V3 and assume a V4 at some point. I had settled on the BS hive (very good) but discontinued for the foreseeable.

I'm fortunate I only had two before I caught on how bad they were; both gone now.

The reason you outline above is the reason why I'd never go for their 12 frame version. If you go for the original v1 or even v2 it doesn't matter if they discontinue it down the line as it's the same external dimensions as a standard national; you could mix and match wood, the BS poly hives or another hive completely if another manufacturer brings one out in the years to come.
 
The floors are great

these Swienty units are decent for the money

Not by a long chalk.

Years ago I found the Swienty design flaws to complicate efficient operation so thoroughly that I gave up using them. Luckily a grounds maintenance company (that ran QE Park after the Olympics) paid for all six hives, so the pain was not mine.

Lucky escape, but at the time Abelo weren't on the scene so options were limited. I recall looking at the Beehive Supplies National poly and at Paynes, but it was pretty clear that they were non-starters as the off-piste footprints would be incompatible with the BS National I aready had.

The cheaper Swienty appears to be a bargain but flatpack is cheaper to transport than say, the one-piece Abelo and though Swienty production costs - Chinese, I believe - may be lower, carbon miles must be greater. Base cost is seductive but misleading and thirty years of practical use will demonsrate that in reality, the price is high.

There are seven Swienty design flaws: first, the floor recess beneath bottom bars leads to comb extension; not a big deal if the box stays put, but if it goes above another the frames must be cleaned. The entrance is a nice 9mm. but the slope up to it is fiddly to block. The holes in the small mesh floor are pointless; all mine were propolised, suggesting that Swienty did no field trials before going to production.

The boxes are too thin at the lug wall and yes, an L-shaped length of plastic against the wall and on the recess floor will stop the nibbling and raise the frames so they (at last) sit flush with box tops. The lug walls are curved at the top to match the roof but not the square-section box base above, so 900mm of the 1800 box perimeter has minimal point of contact between boxes, and, I imagine, a subsequent loss of heat.

The interior box dimensions are incorrect and allow frames to slop about horizontally; side bars contact end walls leading to brace comb and the bonding of lug ends to the recess wall. Because of this slop the frames offset easily and the Hoffmans can become redundant.

The box base rim was designed for top bee space yet the hive is sold as bottom bee space. My guess is that the system was designed as TBS (which would be lovely) but that Swienty realised that a fiddle would be needed to make headway in the predominant BBS UK market.

The runners supplied thereafter complicate life for BBS beekeepers because the 35mm base rim will crush bees when the hive is put back together. Not only that: the wide 35mm base is guaranteed to become propolised to the top bars below. Nice!

The box feeder is very good for TBS but needs the faff of beespace strips of wood glued and screwed to the base rim to convert it to BBS. Swienty don't tell you that, nor (naturally) did they invest in a mould re-design.

The roof has been designed twice and is still not thick enough to give insulation where it's most needed. The re-design about eight years ago converted the inside rim from square to round-shouldered to match the new box profile. It was a disaster, because the rim was fragile and broke easily.

I remember discussing this at the time by phone with C Wynne Jones (Swienty stockist), and came away with the clear view that Swienty were pretty clueless; some time later Swienty recognised that they'd created a dog's dinner and reverted to the original square profile roof, which though stronger at the rim, didn't match the curved box profile (which remains unchanged). Confused? Swienty certainly are!

Just watched the BMH video: Laurence puts it well and I agree: the design is a failure. Last year I heard that Swienty had lost their Chinese production and I hoped it would mean the end of the line for the hive. Seems not, and so novices will continue to see the Swienty base price as an advantage, believe all hives are designed effectively, and struggle with the practical reality.

pondering which poly National I buy
Easy: if you're starting from scratch and don't mind being locked into the design of one supplier, choose what you like and hope they stay in business. If you have already a mixture of standard BS 460mm wood boxes then go for the entirely compatible Abelo, and use the Swienty as bait hives.
 
Interesting write-up and I'll come back to those points later. I've been running these for 6 years? and had a fraction of the problems you mention above so just goes to show how each beekeeper faces different issues.
 
Not by a long chalk.

D - Even though they have issues, this seems a tad extreme, it's a £70 hive direct.

Years ago I found the Swienty design flaws to complicate efficient operation so thoroughly that I gave up using them. Luckily a grounds maintenance company (that ran QE Park after the Olympics) paid for all six hives, so the pain was not mine.

Lucky escape, but at the time Abelo weren't on the scene so options were limited. I recall looking at the Beehive Supplies National poly and at Paynes, but it was pretty clear that they were non-starters as the off-piste footprints would be incompatible with the BS National I aready had.

The cheaper Swienty appears to be a bargain but flatpack is cheaper to transport than say, the one-piece Abelo and though Swienty production costs - Chinese, I believe - may be lower, carbon miles must be greater. Base cost is seductive but misleading and thirty years of practical use will demonsrate that in reality, the price is high.

There are seven Swienty design flaws: first, the floor recess beneath bottom bars leads to comb extension; not a big deal if the box stays put, but if it goes above another the frames must be cleaned. The entrance is a nice 9mm. but the slope up to it is fiddly to block. The holes in the small mesh floor are pointless; all mine were propolised, suggesting that Swienty did no field trials before going to production.

D - Agreed regards some extra comb but the space is the same as the standard cedar national (Caddon) I've just checked* (slightly more than the Abelo 12 frame and BS poly nat). Entrance can be reduced using a spare lower frame section cut in two with a couple of map pins stuck into them so easy to remove. Foam closes it in full. Mesh floor, just checked a 5 year old floor, all clear. A standard national wood hive with those basic entrance blocks are just as poor. *30mm space.

The boxes are too thin at the lug wall and yes, an L-shaped length of plastic against the wall and on the recess floor will stop the nibbling and raise the frames so they (at last) sit flush with box tops. The lug walls are curved at the top to match the roof but not the square-section box base above, so 900mm of the 1800 box perimeter has minimal point of contact between boxes, and, I imagine, a subsequent loss of heat.

D - Agreed and dire - see mod above, cost £1. Regards heat, unsure if an issue as assume most have a poly feeder on the hive.

The interior box dimensions are incorrect and allow frames to slop about horizontally; side bars contact end walls leading to brace comb and the bonding of lug ends to the recess wall. Because of this slop the frames offset easily and the Hoffmans can become redundant.

D - Agreed - Mod Lip/Bar makes them snug, but I've run them for years without issues using Hoffmans and Manley, I just place them with care.

The box base rim was designed for top bee space yet the hive is sold as bottom bee space. My guess is that the system was designed as TBS (which would be lovely) but that Swienty realised that a fiddle would be needed to make headway in the predominant BBS UK market.

The runners supplied thereafter complicate life for BBS beekeepers because the 35mm base rim will crush bees when the hive is put back together. Not only that: the wide 35mm base is guaranteed to become propolised to the top bars below. Nice!

D - Agreed - Mod fixes the bee space/crushing and welding bars to the box atop, but I've only really had issues running double broods, single box with framed QX seemed ok, supers just need to be fitted back on with some care/smoke.

The box feeder is very good for TBS but needs the faff of beespace strips of wood glued and screwed to the base rim to convert it to BBS. Swienty don't tell you that, nor (naturally) did they invest in a mould re-design.

The roof has been designed twice and is still not thick enough to give insulation where it's most needed. The re-design about eight years ago converted the inside rim from square to round-shouldered to match the new box profile. It was a disaster, because the rim was fragile and broke easily.

D - Unsure regards insulation an issue if using feeders.

I remember discussing this at the time by phone with C Wynne Jones (Swienty stockist), and came away with the clear view that Swienty were pretty clueless; some time later Swienty recognised that they'd created a dog's dinner and reverted to the original square profile roof, which though stronger at the rim, didn't match the curved box profile (which remains unchanged). Confused? Swienty certainly are!

Just watched the BMH video: Laurence puts it well and I agree: the design is a failure. Last year I heard that Swienty had lost their Chinese production and I hoped it would mean the end of the line for the hive. Seems not, and so novices will continue to see the Swienty base price as an advantage, believe all hives are designed effectively, and struggle with the practical reality.

D - Unsure regards *novices will continue to see the Swienty base price as an advantage* with a few cheap mods I can't see many people being stressed running a few in the garden, 50/100/500 though, pain (hence not looking to purchase more)

Easy: if you're starting from scratch and don't mind being locked into the design of one supplier, choose what you like and hope they stay in business. If you have already a mixture of standard BS 460mm wood boxes then go for the entirely compatible Abelo, and use the Swienty as bait hives.

D - *choose what you like* - but they all have issues it seems (poly) and reckon there are far worse than the Swienty out there. There are x3 Abelo now all with issues it seems but nothing like the Swienty : )

My 2p, I think the best way to look at units; decide what you need from them and make a choice. For me that would be a single sized box that lasts for decades with a floor that incorporates an easy to use entrance and roof/crown board to allow feeding fondant with a lightweight/watertight unit.

Few years ago I overwintered a Nuc in a travel corex box with an off cut of ply on the roof, they were fine (only because they were that vile and late into the year so left them alone).
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top