Swarm Control - Using an upper entrance

[Cars]

As I think forward to next year and about my approach to Swarm Control, it has been suggested that I consider using an entrance above the queen excluder as shown on the Modern Beekeeping site.

See http://www.****************.co.uk/graphics/cms/Queen Trap Instructions.pdf

I would appreciate any comments from those that have used this approach or any general thoughts on how well this works.

It appears to make sense to me, however, when a queen is about to swarm she slims down and would probably be able to get through the queen excluder ?

If I go with this I wouldn't buy a separate eke like fitting but would put a small removeable opening in the bottom of a super.

Thank you in anticipation

 

[MJBee]

As well as keeping the queen in (hopefully) you will imprison all the drones.
A queen excluder full of drones who died trying to get out is not a pretty sight, it will also upset the whole colony.

 

[oliver90owner]

Only entrance above brood? How do drones get out?

 

[For want of a better word]

As well as keeping the queen in (hopefully) you will imprison all the drones.
A queen excluder full of drones who died trying to get out is not a pretty sight, it will also upset the whole colony.

.... not a pretty sight!

Clipping one wing on the q would be a better idea?
once she has bolted carry out an AS?
OR AS before she has made up her mind to fly?


( Is it not a bit early for this... have not done with squirting them with acid and best time and sugar concentration for spring feeding... roll on !)

 

[Cars]

I have previously used AS as a controlling method and also clip one wing on my queens. However, I am open to new approaches and was exploring a new way forward and looking for comment on any experiences that have already been gained on this process.

As far as drones are concerned, I only know as much as is shown on the Modern Beekeeping website. I had thought that the controlled 3 or 4 week period would not have been an issue to the drones ?????

 

[For want of a better word]

I quite liked the german device that had a magnetic disk stuck on the queen's back... and an iron bar in the entrance she would get stuck to is an escape was attempted !
OK for a polly hive with plastic excluders... dread to think what would happen if any iron pins were used... would have to fix frames together with propper not magnetic stainless steel pins.. copper or brass ones!

( but not Chinese stailess as it seems to be ferrous based)

 

[Finman]

.
Upper entrance has nothing to do with swarm control.

wing clipping and false swarm are good tools.

When I started I read a book Moder Beekeeping. It was printed 1961

This is good letter


[PDF]
Swarming-It's prevention & control - University of Delaware


https://agdev.anr.udel.edu/maarec/wp.../Swarm_Prev_Control_PM.pd...
.

 

[Chris B]

Apart from the merits of such a system, is it any different from putting an extra queen excluder under the brood?
If so this is a method I've used from time to time to buy me a few days when I'm pushed. The queens don't get out because the thorax still can't squeeze through. More importantly perhaps it keeps any unclipped virgins in too. As mentioned by others, drones are a consideration. The longer you leave it the more you get dead with heads wedged in the excluder. I certainly wouldn't leave a month.

 

[Adie]

Might be worth considering one of these instead?

http://barnsleybeekeepers.org.uk/horsley.html

I find a homemade version works well and gives you lots of options when it comes to increasing colony numbers, maintaining honey yield and managing swarming.

 

[Finman]

Might be worth considering one of these instead?

http://barnsleybeekeepers.org.uk/horsley.html

I find a homemade version works well and gives you lots of options when it comes to increasing colony numbers, maintaining honey yield and managing swarming.

This is false swarm method. Nothing more.
It more difficult to nurse than a hive splitted to 2 different hives.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I had thought that the controlled 3 or 4 week period would not have been an issue to the drones ?????

3 or 4 week period!? hmmm can I book one of those next year?

 

[Drew]

( but not Chinese stailess as it seems to be ferrous based)

Could you give a few examples of ANY steel not ferrous based?

 

[Dishmop]

David?

 

[casualman]

Go on google and enter the many uses of a snellgrove board. Edinburgh beekeepers association have instructions on how to make one. Very effective in swarm control or making increase etc.

 

[BeeNice]

I have used the snelgrove board as a division board with an open entrance to the rear of the main hive entrance. The board has a mesh covered hole in the centre. The idea is to separate the laying queen and flyers from the nurse bees and queen cell being now in the top brood box. The idea is as a split hive but you only need the one floor and roof etc. Once the new queen is up and running you can replace the old queen below or make up a nuc. This was decribed in last March's BeeCraft in more detail.
I tried it this year and it would have worked if the weather was better, I didn't lose a swarm but the queen in the top box for some reason did not produce so I combined the bees back together again. Because the bees still where one I didn't need to use the paper method.

 

[simoncav]

Back to the original question....

I have a number of MB Poly hives and also use their Queen trap system placed with the entrance facing to the rear. Most of the time, the top entrance is closed so that the Queen trap acts as a normal QE.

I then use it as part of my swarm management process to create simple demarees with the bottom box (with Queen) under the QE and the top box with eggs & brood above it. If you want to breed one or two extra Queens you can simply wait for the inevitable Queen cells to appear in the upper box and then simply place a clear plastic sheet over the top QE to create a separate colony and open the upper entrance to allow the new foragers to fly out the back and the new Queen to fly, mate and return.

I also use the kit occasionally to seal the lower entrance on the 10 days or so when I am on holiday in August to absolutely prevent any late swarms whilst I am away... All in all, a very useful piece of kit.

 

[hallshoney]

I know an old boy who uses multible entrances he has drilled a hole in most supers same as wine cork. He alway has lower main entrance open. he recons it helps with over crowding in the brood box

 

[Finman]

I know an old boy who uses multible entrances he has drilled a hole in most supers same as wine cork. He alway has lower main entrance open. he recons it helps with over crowding in the brood box

Surely not. I have had whole my life upper entrances. Only way to give more space is to add boxes when the colony enlarges.