Spacing in supers.

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Newbeeneil

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Location
Fernhurst Sussex
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
40 plus 23 that I maintain for clients.
I have always initially spaced my SN1 frames on 11 space castellations then moved to 10 when using drawn comb.
I see some suppliers are selling supers with 10 space castelations for beginners. What spacing do most people use when drawing wax in their supers and using castellations?
 
I always fit my supers with 10 frame castellations, I get these for Bee-Equipment they are excellent quality. I always just leave the bees draw them at this spacing but I will move them around in the super so they all get drawn, something I no longer do is mix drawn and un-drawn frames, the bees just draw the drawn ones even deeper and the undraw very narrow, this make the use of my uncapping system a pain.
 
I have always initially spaced my SN1 frames on 11 space castellations then moved to 10 when using drawn comb.
I see some suppliers are selling supers with 10 space castelations for beginners. What spacing do most people use when drawing wax in their supers and using castellations?

After 4 years I've started using 11s to start with moving to 10s once it is drawn out. It's just one of those things you start of thinking will be alright but realise eventually to listen to those who know and start with 11.
 
I use 10 spacing for all drawn and use 2 or 3 supers with 11 for drawing out.
If short I temp use drawn broods for honey.
 
I start with 10 in a wooden National and finish with 10. Never had a problem of any wonky comb.

Me too. I used to fit plastic ends to the SN4s to get the spacing equal but it's a pain removing them so that the frame fits in the extractor so now I space them by hand. Castellations don't suit my plastic frames and Manleys don't suit my extractor.
 
With foundation, bees can (will) build between the frames just to annoy you if you have just 10 so 10 frames can be tricky to start with; better to start with them closer and widen later on so I had a bag of spacers I used at one point. I have moved to 9 in Nats and 8 in WBC's. Both on castelations.
 
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I started building my own equipment in 1977 including building deep Langstroth frames with 31mm end bars. At that time, I was using Langstroth 10 frame equipment. Since I was doing deeps, I decided to make shallow frames also with 31mm spacing. I could just fit 12 frames into a shallow super so off I went to the hives and put a few on with 12 frames. The bees would draw the frames from foundation with no issues, but when it came time to extract, I had a problem. Most of the combs had one thick side and one thin side which caused a lot of grief extracting. The thin side of the frame was lower than the wooden parts so a knife would not uncap the cells. I figured out that 31mm frames are a waste of time in extracting supers. Since I have square Dadant equipment, I now put 13 frames in a super to get them drawn and then cut back to 11 or 12 frames for honey storage. Thick combs make extracting much simpler.

When I started building frames for the Dadant deeps, I made the end bars to allow for 32 mm spacing. This factors in a bit of propolis between them with 14 frames in a box. This configuration combined with 5.1 mm cells results in faster spring buildup by about 2 or 3 weeks. I can usually split my hives by mid March with the main flow starting about the 20th of April.
 

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