Re-queening question

Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum

Help Support Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

YorkshireBees

Drone Bee
Joined
Jun 16, 2010
Messages
1,590
Reaction score
1
Location
South Yorkshire
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
10-20 (mix of poly / wood)
I have a colony that seemed to become more aggressive towards the end of last year. I am waiting to check it this year before deciding whether to re-queen it.

On the subject of re-queening I was trying to explain the reason to my other half (a non beek) and she raised a question of whether just removing the current queen and letting the colony re-queen itself would not suffice.

I tried to explain that it was better to introduce a queen from a known (gentle) source (colony) rather than risk that the new queen be of the same nature as the existing queen.

It raised the question of the genetics of a queen and her attitude and whether it comes from the queen's genes and is transferred automatically to an offspring or what the percentage chance that a new queen from the existing could be calmer?

To summarize I would rather NOT buy a new queen and either raise one myself or let the colony raise one.

Any thoughts?
 
You could requeen by that method using eggs/larvae from one of your more calm colonies?

Not the best way to requeen (emergency cells) but would only need an extra week, after queen removal, before adding the frame from another colony.

Personally I would wait until some supercedure cell-building could be used. Less time lost that way, especially if the new queen were brought on line in a nuc, first.

Regards, RAB
 
Thanks RAB.

So if I raised a new queen in a Nuc from one of my prefered colonies and then removed the old queen I would just need to follow the queen introduction procedure with the new queen?

I had also considered placing a frame with occupied QC from another colony into this hive and removing the old queen. Would that also work or would it be best to introduce a mated queen?
 
Easiest way (well, least risk) with no real hassle is a newspaper unite jobbie.

A mated queen will be tried and tested before change-over.

Regards, RAB
 
One of my colonies got a bit defensive at the end of last year, they were always a bit that way anyway, but I will give them another chance this year. Your colony may well of be just that bit more aggressive defending end of year stores, where they aggressive during the rest of the year?
Steven
 
I am suprised that colonies don't have more of a mixed behaviour bearing in mind that the sperm that the queen posesses can have come from a number of different drones.
On that note how much of a part do the queens genes determine the make up of the eggs she lays.
 
It raised the question of the genetics of a queen and her attitude and whether it comes from the queen's genes and is transferred automatically to an offspring or what the percentage chance that a new queen from the existing could be calmer?

If the ancestors of that queen (for example - her mother and her grand-mother) were defensive you have very big chance to get also defensive colony, when superceeded.

I am suprised that colonies don't have more of a mixed behaviour bearing in mind that the sperm that the queen posesses can have come from a number of different drones.

On that note how much of a part do the queens genes determine the make up of the eggs she lays.

50 % (on average) + the cytoplasmic inheritance (which is conidered to be inherited only from the mother, but there are some exceptions) . Purely theoretically the heritage of the egg can be inherited between the range of 100 % from the maternal line to 100% from the paternal line. How much genes each different egg will inherit from his mother and how much from his father is determined by the mere chance (dice game).

The queen have dominant role over the collony (only the carniolan breeders hold the opposite). It's pheromones (and her larvae's pheromones) determine and control the behaviours of the bees in the collony ( for example the connection between the larvae's pheromones and the pollen collection)

In particular, the calm behaviour of the collony is interaction between the queens pheromone(s) affecting this feature and the bee's ability to receive it. So the calm behaviour of the collony can be as a consequence of the low production of that pheromone by the queen (in this case the collony remain relatively calm (doninant) , no matter what drone she mate) or as a consequence of the bee's poor ability (less sensitive) to receive the signal of that pheromone (in this case they can be nightmare when crossed). Or both- low pheromone production by the queen and less sensitive to that pheromone bees.

I hope this shed some light

Best regards
Donnie
 
When re-queening you really need to give the colony what they are expecting.

Remove mated queen then introduce mated queen.

Remove mated queen, then give the bees time to start building cells before introducing a queen cell.

Safest way to introduce is to unite a nuc with mated queen with the paper method. New lot on top.

PH
 
cheers donnie that sheds some light on things, i'm really hoping that their temper may change with a change of smoker fuel failing that I will re queen from a nuc i will be buying later on this year if they are of good temper.
 
I am suprised that colonies don't have more of a mixed behaviour bearing in mind that the sperm that the queen posesses can have come from a number of different drones.
On that note how much of a part do the queens genes determine the make up of the eggs she lays.

My bees were pussycats until I let them swarm... The new HM turned them into dragons.


Ben P
 
cheers donnie that sheds some light on things, i'm really hoping that their temper may change with a change of smoker fuel failing that I will re queen from a nuc i will be buying later on this year if they are of good temper.

I forgot to say that the pheromone levels are not constant (for example they can suddenly raise up in case of disease).

As long as the smoke isn't hot, the smoker fuel is has no importance
 
As long as the smoke isn't hot, the smoker fuel is has no importance

It may well be just the burning temperature; but mine used to get very cross when I was burning cardboard, I now use dried lawn clippings/wood shavings mix, and they're much better.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top