Quick questions quick answers

Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum

Help Support Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Antiopdies? Why would you want to put vassie on poly?

PH

Used to use it on the flat areas of old swienty boxes because no frame runners. It helped stop the bees sticking them down. Generally was done when boxes where new but forgotten after that.
 
Never used it nor seen any need to. Re vassie on poly.

Where to source Isopropyl alcohol? And the answer is Amazon.

PH
 
Last edited:
Simple, where to purchase and I ended up at Wayne Jones.

PH
 
It would have been simple had you said a link to purchase. We are not mind readers, although some on here do claim to have such mystical gifts.
Bet you're glad google got there before they did :D
 
When uniting two colonies, does it matter if the Q+ colony is on the top or bottom of the stack?

Sent from my A3-A20 using Tapatalk
 
When uniting two colonies, does it matter if the Q+ colony is on the top or bottom of the stack?

Sent from my A3-A20 using Tapatalk

No.
But if she’s in the bottom at least you don’t have to go looking for her when you consolidate the two broods
 
Looking at the last 4 weeks of a worker bee's life, are the first two spent gathering pollen and the last two spent gathering nectar?
 
When uniting two colonies, does it matter if the Q+ colony is on the top or bottom of the stack?

Sent from my A3-A20 using Tapatalk

No - I just put whichever colony which needs moving on top. QX between them so at least you know where the queen is
 
When uniting two colonies, does it matter if the Q+ colony is on the top or bottom of the stack?

Sent from my A3-A20 using Tapatalk

I would put Q+ on bottom so that bees on top get trapped in for some time taking in her pheromones... especially if laying workers?
 
Looking at the last 4 weeks of a worker bee's life, are the first two spent gathering pollen and the last two spent gathering nectar?

They switch according to need
Availability of nectar has much less bearing on foraging for it than the need for pollen in the colony. So if blossom is abundant the bees keep piling nectar in but if brood rearing demands more pollen nectar foragers will switch to collecting pollen
 
Looking at the last 4 weeks of a worker bee's life, are the first two spent gathering pollen and the last two spent gathering nectar?

They are mainly dedicated to one or the other. A few gather both (approx 10% IIRC), switching according to need or glut. It's all in the genes.
 
ok thanks, so collecting one or the other is not age related at all.

Another thing I read, which I haven't before, is that colonies work harder when competing for resources, so if you want good pollination, place small numbers of hives in clusters rather placing stand alone hives. Does anyone have an opinion on this or perhaps come across research on it?
 
ok thanks, so collecting one or the other is not age related at all.

Another thing I read, which I haven't before, is that colonies work harder when competing for resources, so if you want good pollination, place small numbers of hives in clusters rather placing stand alone hives. Does anyone have an opinion on this or perhaps come across research on it?

Would a thousand bees working twice as hard achieve more than two thousand working half as hard though?
 
My hives are situated on a local farm, courtesy of the farm owner who is a friend. Understandably the location has to take second place to the farmer's cultivation and cropping decisions. The location is acceptable but somewhat exposed. Quite noticeable on very windy days.

About thirty yards away is a very dense and sturdy hedge that would provide a good wind break over winter. My farmer friend would be content for the hives to be moved, on a temporary basis, but the distance seems a problem.

Is it doable?

If so is it worth the effort, especially as they would need to be replaced in the original position in early spring?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top