Preserving hives danish oil

[Grub]

Hi All,

I was thinking of giving the brood boxes/roof a lick of Danish oil before winter sets in, is it ok to use and will the smell upset the bees.

Also does anybody use anything else ie linseed etc

Grub

 

[Swarm]

My own experience with Danish oil, not on hives, is that it doesn't want to dry too readily and always seems to remain tacky.
I don't think I'd use it on an occupied hive.

 

[Matt77]

I use rustins outdoor Danish oil on my cedar hives, 3 coats on new wood normally. Seems to repel water very well & I've never had an issue with it drying. It dries to a satin type finish.

 

[linoleum bonypart]

Raw Linseed Oil

 

[enrico]

Osmo oil

 

[Grub]

thanks guys

Grub

 

[SiOakleaf]

I would recommend linseed oil, Danish oil has artificial dryers in it so doesn't penetrate as well. If it has had a coat of some sort already it isn't that important as penetration won't be important. My personal choice on anything is Tung oil, takes longer to dry but is harder wearing. My 10p's worth, hope it helps.

 

[REDWOOD]

Raw Linseed Oil

+1 that would be my only choice with occupied bees but a little apiary management in the spring, exchanging floors, boxes and such is a better way to go

 

[MartinL]

I chose to have Cedar Hives for the reason that they don't need any preservative coating.

Also remember that if you waterproof the outerskin of the hive moisture entering the wood from inside the hive is going to be retained resulting in more thermal conductivity (colder hive) and better conditions for mould & decay.

 

[SiOakleaf]

I chose to have Cedar Hives for the reason that they don't need any preservative coating.

Also remember that if you waterproof the outerskin of the hive moisture entering the wood from inside the hive is going to be retained resulting in more thermal conductivity (colder hive) and better conditions for mould & decay.

There is far too much air movement inside a hive for that to be an issue is there not?

 

[MartinL]

remember that if you waterproof the outerskin of the hive moisture entering the wood from inside the hive is going to be retained resulting in more thermal conductivity (colder hive) and better conditions for mould & decay.

There is far too much air movement inside a hive for that to be an issue is there not?

Probably not.

In mid-winter with the colony in a cluster?????

All depends.

Cheap Pine boxes, maybe but if you are going to the expense of buying good quality Cedar why coat the outside in preservatives?

 

[Plenty of honey]

Linseed oil.

A lot of people in France like to give two or three coats of linseed oil. my old beekeeping teacher has hives of maritime pine that are over 40 years old. Linseed oil coated on the outside everyear, while the bees are still inside seems to work well.
I personally now use Ronseal exterior wood stain, water based, dries in 30, dosent crack poor peel, used it for 4 years now, hives painted then still looking great.

 

[SiOakleaf]

Although cedar is a great wood foe outdoors it will eventually crack and rot despite its properties. It is a fallacy that it doesn't need some kind of treatment to make it last, if its worth going to the expense of buying cedar its worth looking after it, it also then stays its stunning colour if oiled.

 

[Hivemaker.]

Still have some cedar hives which were made back in the 40s and 50s which have never been treated/painted, and apart from the odd knocks and scrapes from use they are in reasonably good condition, no rot, no doubt cedar hives would eventually rot, but if bought new it would be unlikely to happen in the lifetime of the beekeeper. None of my new cedar hives get any kind of treatment.

Best and cheapest way to buy cedar is in the round, and mill it yourself, if the intention is to produce a lot of beehives.

 

[SiOakleaf]

I have made my hive parts from western red, bought rough sawn nut have also treated it with an oil to preserve its appearance and protect it. When serving my time I was fought to protect every surface as prevention is better than cure. I do however love the silver that cedar goes when weathered, its also a tad more discreet than a vivid orangey brown hive.

 

[B+.]

I have also treated it with an oil to preserve its appearance and protect it. When serving my time I was fought to protect every surface as prevention is better than cure.

Do you treat the inside of the hive too?
I've noticed some woodworkers do (e.g. https://youtu.be/vV-7kmLwQ00?t=18m34s)

 

[SiOakleaf]

No I leave the inside bare to breathe, I treat all edges and the outer face

 

[MelGar]

can you treat the inside of the hives with anything prior to bees moving in ?

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

can you treat the inside of the hives with anything prior to bees moving in ?

No - and you shouldn't in any case. The bees will sort out the inside of the hive themselves

 

[ericbeaumont]

can you treat the inside of the hives with anything prior to bees moving in ?

Use nothing, inside or out cedar hives (and see post 14 by the late Peter Little, who made and used hundreds of them).

Leave it to the bees: they'll coat the entire hive interior with a coat of propolis.