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Some people give the compost a really good soak after sowing and I've been told that's good enough for a week or more. I prefer to sit my modules trays in another solid tray that I put water into and just add enough to keep them moist every few days.

James
 
Thought I would try modules again as work had some unwanted trays. However, I find the compost dries out quickly. Perhaps it’s the peat free mix I use. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Emily
You could try mixing in some perlite.
 
Just checked my trail camera for the first time in a couple of weeks and found pictures of four Roe Deer wandering through the veggie plot and eating the curly kale!

James
 
Just checked my trail camera for the first time in a couple of weeks and found pictures of four Roe Deer wandering through the veggie plot and eating the curly kale!

James
I would love that, not so good for your Curly kale!!!
 
Little tinkers, how can you stop them?

This year I shall be putting butterfly netting over the brassicas and might just leave it in place for the winter (or swap it for bird netting after caterpillars are no longer a risk). Other plants that deer seem to like might have to be planted in the same place. I'm fairly sure it was them that ate loads of the parsley and beetroot leaves this autumn.

James
 
This year I shall be putting butterfly netting over the brassicas and might just leave it in place for the winter (or swap it for bird netting after caterpillars are no longer a risk). Other plants that deer seem to like might have to be planted in the same place. I'm fairly sure it was them that ate loads of the parsley and beetroot leaves this autumn.

James
Deer won't jump a fence or hedge where they can't see what is on the other side...... Apparently
 
Here they are:

kale-thief-01.jpg


If they're not careful there'll be venison on the menu :D

James
 
This year I shall be putting butterfly netting over the brassicas and might just leave it in place for the winter (or swap it for bird netting after caterpillars are no longer a risk). Other plants that deer seem to like might have to be planted in the same place. I'm fairly sure it was them that ate loads of the parsley and beetroot leaves this autumn.

James
Pigeons are also very partial to all sorts of leaves so I net a lot of crops all year round with scaffold netting and plumbing pipe hoops.
 
Pigeons are also very partial to all sorts of leaves so I net a lot of crops all year round with scaffold netting and plumbing pipe hoops.

Strangely I don't often see that many pigeons about. Possibly because there are plenty of locals who view them as a source of free and tasty food :) I probably would too, if they were eating my brassicas.

James
 
Pigeons are also very partial to all sorts of leaves so I net a lot of crops all year round with scaffold netting and plumbing pipe hoops.
They are a pain in the neck with us!!
 
Same here, although the dog does her best to chase them out of the garden.
They poo everywhere our stupid dog eats it then it's a vets bill as its toxic for dogs!!
 
Well you might be lucky with the pepper plants if theyve not had frost on them,
I've kept chillies indoors for a few years they never last though spider mitr seem to take there course and I don't like to spray, If you do make a solar irrigation pls share very interested to know how you get on I've used solar to power a pool but that was a bought in pumb and solar panel.
What's the yellow Tom called?
Edit I use King's seeds wholesale.


I grow loads of chilies indoors. I have grown chilies for about 15 years, and have combated just about every kind of pest,

I dont like to use anything "chemical" on my plants.

Despite spider mites having a feerce reputation, I have never found them to be too problematic. If left untreated the mites replicate quickly and will eventually overwhelm chilly/pepper plants reducing them to a mess. I have tried various ways to rid plants of spider mites over the years. The most effective way I have found to combat SM is simply to spray the plants down with water.

My plants are all in pots, so I just take the plant outside, then hose it down with the hose nozzle attachment in the highest power spray setting. Make sure you get the underside of the leaves too. All spider mites hate damp, so its not just the action of spraying them off, the dampening of their environment helps too. So I will normally spray infected plants outside once per day, then just dampen the plant 1 or 2 times more throughout the day.

There is more than one kind of spider mite. There is one type this treatment will clear up in a single hit. But unfortunately there are some more stubborn ones that will require ongoing treatment. Most will be wiped out in about a week if you treat 2/3 times a day. But there is a relay stubborn kind (its the relay small ones) that this treatment will not completely kill, and you will have to keep treating every 5/7 days to control them.

The key too spider mite prevention is early treatment. The more established they are on the plant, the harder it will be to remove them. So inspecting plants regularly is critical.

My worse enemy for years was the western flower thrip and their associated plant viruses. I thought I had finaly cracked the thrip problem, then last year I had a new kind of thrip show up that were identified as Chilly thrips. So Chilly thrips are the bane of my chillys now and I am just hoping they dont show up again this year.
 

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