Obtaining bees

[Mujician]

Hi, I hope I'm not dragging up old subjects, and as a regular forum browser I'm aware there is a search function, but it takes ages to look through and find the exact info I want: So here goes!
I know I can buy bees, the shop near me not only sells equipment but also bees so I know I'm sorted in that respect. However, I have just seen a website that sells single queens. I guess this must be hard work to look after as there are no other bees with her to groom her. So, (hypothetically) if I bought a single queen, would she produce healthy bees if I left her to it, or would I need to offer assistance in rearing her to help her produce young?

Finally, and again, hypothetically, if I were to buy some artificial pheromones, how likely is it I would attract a queen, and her colony?
Again, sorry if this has been covered, but I'm looking for as much info as I can. Ben

 

[region2]

With the winter coming buy Roger Patterson's or Ted Hooper's books and read up on beekeeping and you'll haveall/some of the answers you need.

R2

 

[simonrp]

The simple answer is NO
Ben, you really need to have a read up on how a bee colony works.
The queen only lays the egg, all the rearing is carried out by the workers.

 

[Mujician]

Oh okay, cool, I'll have a look. I guess spring is the best time to set up a colony is it? And yes, I did think that, which was why I asked hypothetically!

 

[oliver90owner]

if I bought a single queen, would she produce healthy bees if I left her to i

No. Basic fact of the honey bee colony. A queen is not a colony.

if I were to buy some artificial pheromones, how likely is it I would attract a queen, and her colony?

No. you need more than that or even don't need pheromones, artificial or otherwise. Search 'bait hives' and you will find lots to read.

 

[itma]

Hi Ben.
A queen needs a colony to support her, just as much as a colony needs a queen.

Queens being sold without an attached colony (but usually with a few, less than a dozen, attendants to look after her in transit) are for sale to beekeepers who have either lost a queen (for whatever reason) or want to change to a better queen (better tempered offspring, more productive, or whatever).

Come spring, people will be offering "nucs" for sale. Small (comfortable minimum) colonies, for growing on.
Beware that "nuc" is also used to describe small hives!
So distinguish between Nucleus Colonies and Nucleus Hives.
Most nuc colonies only come in 'transport' (disposable) hives ... You'd probably want to move them into a proper hive asap.



In early summer, your local association (join and go on a winter course) will be able to offer you a swarm for free, or nearly free.
But you are taking pot luck as to health, productivity, temper, etc
Nevertheless, not a totally bad way to start.

// even if you quickly conclude that you need to buy a better queen!

 

[REDWOOD]

Hi Ben, have a look at this below;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honey_bee_life_cycle
and welcome to the forum, any questions feel free to ask

 

[Luminos]

Welcome to the forum, Ben - stay on board and you'll understand why the answer to your question is no

 

[Mujician]

Why would one queen potentially be better than another?

 

[Dusty Rhodes]

First, define "better".


Dusty

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Why would one queen potentially be better than another?

As she is the mother of all other bees in the hive - she passes on her traits to them (temperament, prolonged foraging tendency to swarm etc) so if you have nasty stingy bees changing the queen can help. also as queens only last for a few years a younger queen should be more prolific in her laying - more bees = more honey (in theory anyway) There are other reasons but this is a start
BTW welcome to the forum

 

[RogueDrone]

Ben, You have to think of the bee colony as a single beast and the Queen is the heart of that best the Queens you have seen advertised are for a transplant.

As said above read the books look and see if your local BKA have a course. We TBKA hold a one day course at a reasonable cost (about £20 i think) great in sight and will give you contacts and possible mentor for your first season or two.

Good luck if you do get caught in the trap of Beekeeping.

If you want to be happy for a day get married
If you want to be happy for life get bees.

Colin

 

[Mujician]

As she is the mother of all other bees in the hive - she passes on her traits to them (temperament, prolonged foraging tendency to swarm etc) so if you have nasty stingy bees changing the queen can help. also as queens only last for a few years a younger queen should be more prolific in her laying - more bees = more honey (in theory anyway) There are other reasons but this is a start
BTW welcome to the forum

Thanks. So does changing the queen not upset the rest of the hive? Are there any special precautions to take?

 

[RogueDrone]

Special precautions ensure you only have one queen in a colony at a time they fight to death.
There are wll documented methods of introducing a Queen depending on circumstances.

 

[Poly Hive]

Of the two books mentioned Hoper would be the preferred one.

PH

 

[Hebeegeebee]

Of the two books mentioned Hoper would be the preferred one.

PH

The ladybird book of the honeybee is probably the best one to start with!
Sensible drawings and tells the beginner a lot about what goes on in a simple form. I used it as a basis for a beekeeping talk to my classmates - when I was 8 or 9. About 1,000 years ago. I've still got it. Cost 2/-6d.

 

[enrico]

Why would one queen potentially be better than another?

There are many strains, just like dogs, you chose the one that suits you best. Any queen will do what she should do but some are prolific layers some are better tempered , some produce good offspring etc etc. you buy a nuc and can always change the queen if necessary although as a new beekeeper you will probably just get on with what you are given!!
Hope this helps. Try 'bees at the bottom of the garden' easy to read book that will explain everything to you
E

 

[Sir Quej]

In early summer, your local association (join and go on a winter course) will be able to offer you a swarm for free, or nearly free.
But you are taking pot luck as to health, productivity, temper, etc
Nevertheless, not a totally bad way to start.

// even if you quickly conclude that you need to buy a better queen!

Starting with a swarm is definately the cheapest way to start in the short term and as long as you are getting them from an experienced and reputable beek, they should hopefully be ok.

I have personally passed on two swarms this year and even though I'm still in my first year, it was all done with the help and assistance of a very experienced beek. I held the swarms for 6 weeks first and both swarms have gone on to be good colonies.

To be honest, the issue of desease is the same even if you are buying a NUC. Not everyone who sells bees, does it properly (as one of the beeks at my assosiation found out this year).

Good Luck

 

[alanf]

Again, sorry if this has been covered, but I'm looking for as much info as I can.

A poll on books suitable for beginners:

http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=8587

Starting completely from scratch, the Alan Campion book is often recommended as a primer when you're considering whether having bees would be a good idea. If you can't wait for the book to arrive, there are plenty of web sites that cover the basics. You could do a lot worse than starting with "western honey bee" and "beekeeping" on Wikipedia.

 

[Hebeegeebee]

Apart from the ladybird 'primer'
Hooper isn't a first book - but a second.
And third.