Newly Hived Nuc advice re Wild Comb

[BrianO]

Hello All

This AM early, went to out apiary where I have 2 colonies, 1 Nuc in Polynuc and 1 National Hive, opened first the National hive, going great guns ! . ( was a new Nuc bought earlier in year, previously hived up )

Brood box frames all drawn out and occupied, now up into super on 8 frames , 5 filled and capped, put another super on , good move ? ( given a good year could they fill it , bearing in mind the frames are foundation only ? )

The other colony, was in a Polynuc box, transferred them into a hive this AM.

As my previous post, had messed up originally when I had created this Nuc colony, by moving a queen ( intent on swarming ) from a full hive in other Apiary into this Nuc box, moved then to this Apiary 3 miles away. Though had stupidly left a frame out and hence discovered wild comb drawn in the space where missing frame should have been.

So this AM when transferred into new hive ( pic below ) this was end result. Think maybe in hindsight I should have split that wild comb down the middle where it is braced/bridges ?. Some did fall away and I rubber banded it into an empty frame , as advise here previously. Problem was there are 6 other hives in this Apiary, and was concious of the honey from the comb already dripping off my gloves and the prospect of robbing and wasps spotted, being attracted. So thought maybe better to do this in two stages, as in hive up Nuc this AM, as did, and return again to split that wild comb ?

Do I need to let settle and go back in couple of days and split this wild comb and band into frames ? .

Thanks

Brian.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Was there any brood in that brace comb? if not, just chop the lot away and have it on your toast or put it above a crown board with a hole in and they will rob it out and store it properly.

As for the super on the other hive - put the new super directly above the brood box and put the half filled one on top, you'll find they will sort themselves out better that way

 

[BrianO]

No brood, just honey, excellent ...

So next problem how the hell do I get an extension lead long enough to get the toaster and kettle up to the Apiary !!!

Ok re the additional super, will do that and switch them around.

Thanks JB for the advice

Cheers

Brian

 

[REDWOOD]

given a good year could they fill it
Yes if you have heather or HB

 

[BrianO]

Thanks

No, no heather, on allotment so plenty of urban gardens and allotment forage, though appreciate this is a more barren time re flowering .

H.Balsam yes suppose there is some local, does anyone get a run on in september ever ?

A local Beek to me said in his first year he had a super drawn out and fillled in a week during a fine september spell . ( Not Ivy either, as honey was light )

 

[Dan Job]

Was there any brood in that brace comb? if not, just chop the lot away and have it on your toast or put it above a crown board with a hole in and they will rob it out and store it properly.

As for the super on the other hive - put the new super directly above the brood box and put the half filled one on top, you'll find they will sort themselves out better that way

Would they also rob out pollen stores if they were put above the crown board?

 

[oliver90owner]

Would they also rob out pollen stores if they were put above the crown board?

I would not be bothering about pollen. Getting that comb out of the way is important, as any adjacent would likely be affected/spoilt.

It looks like some of those frames need pushing together. Getting the box drawn fully is a priority. I would be placing those frames warm way and close to the narrowed entrance, to avoid any wasps sneaking past into an unoccupied area. Dividing down to help avoid this potential problem is a good move. Spare space is not good in any hive, IMO.

 

[BrianO]

OK

When you say " Dividing Down " I presume you mean in Dummying down any empty space coming into the colder months ?

Thanks

Brian.

 

[Dan Job]

I would not be bothering about pollen. Getting that comb out of the way is important, as any adjacent would likely be affected/spoilt.

I agree, it was more of a hypothetical question... Applicable to a scenario I find myself in. I have some comb built below a dn1 in a 14x12 box which goes deeper than the 14x12's. I want rid of it because if I want to put the frame into my temp 14x12 box while inspecting it rests on the comb at the btm. It has a fair stash of pollen in it but no brood. So I was considering cutting it off and putting it in the roof space, but only if they would still make use of the pollen.

Not wanting to hijack. A quick yes they will rob the pollen/ no they won't, would be appreciated.

Cheers Dan.

 

[Margaret Elisabeth]

No brood, just honey, excellent ...

So next problem how the hell do I get an extension lead long enough to get the toaster and kettle up to the Apiary !!!

Ok re the additional super, will do that and switch them around.

Thanks JB for the advice

Cheers

Brian

CampingGaz? and at the other end of the allotment.
Alternatively a lidded plastic container to take it home.

 

[oliver90owner]

When you say " Dividing Down " I presume

Presuming is never good!

I meant dividing off completely, particularly if the frames are cold way. If wasps can gain entry and escape to an unoccupied part of the hive, they can still sneak into the stores area, feed, exit, but bring back more buddies to compound any problem. A dummy does not make a seal; there is a bee space all around.

I only use dummy boards at the end(s) of thre brood box for ease of removal of first frame at inspection. The bee space all round means the dummy does not get braced or propolised. A divider affords complete separation, particularly at the top bar, so heat is not lost across the top of the frames to the unoccupied part of the hive - and nowhere for unwanted visitors to lay in wait at this time of the year.

A subtle difference but an important one. For instance, I use dividers in my Dartingtons over the winter; they very much reduce heat loss to the cover boards directly above the cluster (nine or ten frames at most), not over the whole length of the brood body (22 frames!). For those, there is no need to extend to the floor mesh (as heat rises), but for this application they would really need to be wasp-tight.

RAB

 

[oliver90owner]

Dan job,

The answer is 'doubtful'. I've never really wanted to find out as the issue has not arisen in umpteen years.

Pollen is not usually a problem for UK bees; only in spring if brooding heavily and foraging is prevented by the weather.