Newbee preparing for the end of summer

[Nick Lang]

Hey everyone....so I got my very first nuc in mid July this year...I did worry it was a bit late...but due to the poor weather we had earlier in the year...and all the other contributing factors I guess...that was what it was...everything looks great in the hive...and the queen has been mega busy.... all the frames in the brood box are filled with a mix of honey, different types of brood etc.

I put a second brood box on top of the first brood box so they could expand up into it.....but they haven't used any of the frames up in the second brood box at all....and I'm wondering if I should take it off now considering they will slow down now summer is ending.

Also:
what are the next steps for me...when do I treat for varroa and what should I treat with?
When should I start feeding and what quantity's and what food should I feed??

Thanks much for any and all advice

 

[user 819]

Remove the 2nd BB they don't need it now this year.

How many frames covered in brood and which type of hive and frame size used ?

Treatments start from August in to mid Sept, use any of the recommended treatments apiguard, apivar life, oxivar etc etc. A lot of us use vaping with an approved product but this may not be for you until you have gained more knowledge.

The winter bees will be starting to be produced very soon so treatment is best done before they are produced in earnest so they are as healthy as possible, as well as reducing the varroa population in turn it reduces the virus load as well. Winter bee rearing can go in to December all depends on temps and weather.

Feed at the same time if need be, often bees ignore feed when some of the potent stinky stuff is used.
Feeding wise one needs to gauge the stores already in the brood box, so we need to know frame size and how many have stores or part stores.
Feed sugar if needed at a mix rate 1kg/2.2lbs sugar to 1 pint hot water, each measure will provide about 2.5 - 2.75lbs of stores approx. A colony is often stocked with 30 - 40lbs of stores to see it through till spring.

Another option is to place an empty deep eke or super over the BB and place a 12.5kg block of bakers fondant on the top bars, make holes or small slits on the under side of the block for bees to access it. On top of the fondant place a slab of 50mm PIR insulation to maintain heat retention.

If not feeding fondant then still use the insulation under the roof above the crown board, all depends on the hive type in use.


A bit long so hopefully not too much to digest.
Other responses/advice will be along soon I expect.

 

[enrico]

Without wishing to sound rude, buy a good book that will give you all the answers. I could tell you what I do but it would take a while and it is already out there in detail. You need to make personal decisions on how to treat and how to feed. All we can do is tell you what we do and that might not suit you! Books are good for Xmas presents!

 

[user 819]

A book at Xmas will be too late for this year Eric, something along the lines I have mentioned is a start Nick though each colonies needs are different.
Don't feed to heavily to early otherwise the Q's laying space will be restricted so too few winter bees, I don't start feeding until near end of Sept or in early Oct. The bees will have reduced a bit by then as the Q's laying is ramping well and truly down.

 

[user 819]

What hive type are you using Nick ?

 

[user 819]

I have just started my first round of OA vaping another three to go at 4 - 5 day intervals, I will likely give another mid to late Oct as there is a non treater in the village of my main apiary and will need to keep an eye on any re-infestation.
I am feeding a couple of nucs as they are short of stores, one now has been placed in BS Nat BB as it was on B & 1/2 set up and chokka with bees. They have now been moved to home in the garden.

 

[Nick Lang]

Thank you for your replies.....I'm using a standard size brood box on a National hive set up.....the last time I did a hive check (about two/three days ago) there were four or so frames that were absolutely choca block crawling full of bees...all the other frames were pretty full...lots of bees all over them (just not as many)...the frames are a mix of capped brood....what look like drone cells.....a good two/three frames full of honey....all the other frames had a lot of bees all over them....but not packed (if you follow)

I will deffo get a couple of books....I'm going to order some apiguard tubs or some of those apivar life strips this evening...when they arrive I'll take off the second brood box then treat for mites.

Do you make your own fondant or do you buy it in ready made???.....I fed sugar water when I first received the nuc....so I'm okay with that .

Thanks for such comprehensive advice.... it's really helpful

 

[Patrick1]

Remove the 2nd BB they don't need it now this year.

How many frames covered in brood and which type of hive and frame size used ?

Treatments start from August in to mid Sept, use any of the recommended treatments apiguard, apivar life, oxivar etc etc. A lot of us use vaping with an approved product but this may not be for you until you have gained more knowledge.

The winter bees will be starting to be produced very soon so treatment is best done before they are produced in earnest so they are as healthy as possible, as well as reducing the varroa population in turn it reduces the virus load as well. Winter bee rearing can go in to December all depends on temps and weather.

Feed at the same time if need be, often bees ignore feed when some of the potent stinky stuff is used.
Feeding wise one needs to gauge the stores already in the brood box, so we need to know frame size and how many have stores or part stores.
Feed sugar if needed at a mix rate 1kg/2.2lbs sugar to 1 pint hot water, each measure will provide about 2.5 - 2.75lbs of stores approx. A colony is often stocked with 30 - 40lbs of stores to see it through till spring.

Another option is to place an empty deep eke or super over the BB and place a 12.5kg block of bakers fondant on the top bars, make holes or small slits on the under side of the block for bees to access it. On top of the fondant place a slab of 50mm PIR insulation to maintain heat retention.

If not feeding fondant then still use the insulation under the roof above the crown board, all depends on the hive type in use.


A bit long so hopefully not too much to digest.
Other responses/advice will be along soon I expect.

Everyone on this will help, so much information is free and available, only so much can be easily explained through text, really you need to invest in your hobby, a good book over winter would be a positive a donation to the forum to keep lights on is another and bee buddy, all things that would help you to enjoy your new craft.

 

[enrico]

The main thing to concentrate on now you have decided on your varroa treatment is to ensure that they have enough food for winter. By the end of feeding at the end of September you should lift one side of the hive carefully and it should feel really really heavy, almost too heavy to lift. Try lifting it regularly to get a feel for it. It is called hefting. Fondant is generally kept for emergency feeding in spring. It is a , just in case, type of thing. You can buy a 12.5 kilo box or part thereof from any good old fashion baker that makes their cakes on site.
You will get loads of conflicting help which you will have to sort out the good from the bad. For a few tips and ideas go onto the blog page on this site, click on authors and then on my avatar. There are a few pages on there written last year to help second year beekeepers. Some of it may help, or make you smile at any rate! Best of luck

 

[user 819]

How much drone brood ? Most of mine have none or very little now.
A pic or two of the brood combs please.

 

[Swarm]

Hey everyone....so I got my very first nuc in mid July this year...I did worry it was a bit late...but due to the poor weather we had earlier in the year...and all the other contributing factors I guess...that was what it was...everything looks great in the hive...and the queen has been mega busy.... all the frames in the brood box are filled with a mix of honey, different types of brood etc.

I put a second brood box on top of the first brood box so they could expand up into it.....but they haven't used any of the frames up in the second brood box at all....and I'm wondering if I should take it off now considering they will slow down now summer is ending.

Also:
what are the next steps for me...when do I treat for varroa and what should I treat with?
When should I start feeding and what quantity's and what food should I feed??

Thanks much for any and all advice

Yes, they were never going to need that second box this year. You've arranged your treatment so as a rough guide, I feed each colony a gallon to twelve pints of invert and rarely find they need more as they also have Ivy. I'm guessing your bees have access to a fair amount of Ivy and Balsam.

 

[Nick Lang]

How much drone brood ? Most of mine have none or very little now.
A pic or two of the brood combs please.

I'll double check and another look when I do the aptiguard and change out the top brood box.....but from memory it wasn't a huge amount of drone cells, I think it was a couple of patches on two frames.

I bought three kilos of fondant when I bought the aptiguard....so I'll use that late autumn and winter

 

[enrico]

Keep an eye on the fondant, that may not be enough!

 

[Tony Slater]

Thank you for your replies.....I'm using a standard size brood box on a National hive set up.....the last time I did a hive check (about two/three days ago) there were four or so frames that were absolutely choca block crawling full of bees...all the other frames were pretty full...lots of bees all over them (just not as many)...the frames are a mix of capped brood....what look like drone cells.....a good two/three frames full of honey....all the other frames had a lot of bees all over them....but not packed (if you follow)

I will deffo get a couple of books....I'm going to order some apiguard tubs or some of those apivar life strips this evening...when they arrive I'll take off the second brood box then treat for mites.

Do you make your own fondant or do you buy it in ready made???.....I fed sugar water when I first received the nuc....so I'm okay with that .

Thanks for such comprehensive advice.... it's really helpful

https://haynes.com/en-gb/bee-manual...jt5czdUJi4Cfrt4_xl6_aMoluMCqcTZRoCicwQAvD_BwEIs a good practical guide for a beginner.

 

[user 819]

For BS deep frames you will need approx. 7 filled with stores both sides for about 30- 35 lbs of stores. Judge how much stores they have late Sept/very early Oct and give wet feed or give fondant direct above them (very close contact) so that they will have the required weight to overwinter on.

3kg of fondant is 6.6lbs the fondant is about 70% strength (though not 100% sure),it would equate to about 7.5 - 8lbs of stores so as Eric has said may not be enough. All will depend on wet/sealed stores they have as well.
Ivy can be useful from late Sept to late Nov if it stays mild but there is no guarantee the bees will be on it, my bees do collect a good 10/15lbs worth to bolster stores when on it.

 

[Nick Lang]

https://haynes.com/en-gb/bee-manual...jt5czdUJi4Cfrt4_xl6_aMoluMCqcTZRoCicwQAvD_BwEIs a good practical guide for a beginner.

Cheers buddy....I'll order that

 

[Nick Lang]

For BS deep frames you will need approx. 7 filled with stores both sides for about 30- 35 lbs of stores. Judge how much stores they have late Sept/very early Oct and give wet feed or give fondant direct above them (very close contact) so that they will have the required weight to overwinter on.

3kg of fondant is 6.6lbs the fondant is about 70% strength (though not 100% sure),it would equate to about 7.5 - 8lbs of stores so as Eric has said may not be enough. All will depend on wet/sealed stores they have as well.
Ivy can be useful from late Sept to late Nov if it stays mild but there is no guarantee the bees will be on it, my bees do collect a good 10/15lbs worth to bolster stores when on it.

Thanks hemo.....I'll get some more when I order another hive...when the winter sales are on ....just as an interest....is it better to feed a fondant with added pollen and such....like Candipolline Gold or similar....or should I just buy normal bee fondant

 

[Erichalfbee]

Don’t waste your money on Candipolline. The pollen content is insignificant
Are your bees bringing in any?
Fondant
https://beekeepingforum.co.uk/threads/suppliers.49833/

 

[enrico]

Thanks hemo.....I'll get some more when I order another hive...when the winter sales are on ....just as an interest....is it better to feed a fondant with added pollen and such....like Candipolline Gold or similar....or should I just buy normal bee fondant

You will find it so much cheaper at a bakers rather than a bee store!

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

https://www.chocolatefalls.co.uk/ingredients/sugars/12.5kg-soft-white-bakers-fondant?cPath=5773&