New beekeeper starting out.....

[Swarm]

I think poly are a little bit cheaper. I bought two in my early days, when a large national supplier started selling them. Hate them. Just prefer the aesthetics of wood. I know research shows difference in performance, but I notice little between the two types. I also enjoy constructing the flat packs, which I now get at greatly reduced price in the January sales. Even though they are seconds, they go together true and square. Out of 8 boxes I just made up, I had to use filler on two, for cosmetic rather than functional reasons

Whereas I don't hate them, since I have loads of them, I do still prefer Cedar and I think I'll stick with Cedar for any future purchase other than nucs.
Like drex, I've seen no noticeable difference between them where the bees are concerned, but there does however seem to be some compromise or other with the polys, to the point that any benefit is outweighed by hassle.

My preferred set up is now Cedar hive parts with an abelo poly roof. Aesthetically, it's a nice design, fits snuggly and it provides all the insulation the bees will ever need.

When it comes to equipment (hive parts) think twice what is currently occupied, because you will need it during swarm prevention.

 

[Beefriendly]

Like drex, I've seen no noticeable difference between them where the bees are concerned,

Have you compared the amount of brood in early spring in poly hives vs wooden?
I ask this because this was the reason I went all poly.
The differences between the two, where I live at least, were very convincing.

 

[drex]

In general, all I know is that I seem to ed up with more supers on the wood than the poly. I do try to equalise colonies in early spring. I will check on brooding this year before I do.

My hives are in a very sheltered spot, but good sun exposure, perhaps the wood warms up quicker in the sunshine?

 

[Swarm]

Have you compared the amount of brood in early spring in poly hives vs wooden?
I ask this because this was the reason I went all poly.
The differences between the two, where I live at least, were very convincing.

Yes, no difference. Sometimes Cedar are stronger, sometimes weaker. I have a colony in a standard Cedar national with an original shallow paines roof on it, it was all I had and only the bricks keep it in place. This was a small colony last Autumn but it will be one of the strongest come Spring by the look of them.

 

[Beefriendly]

Interesting.
Regional differences perhaps?
I'll look out the last comparisons I did several years ago. From memory it was between 5-7 frames of brood per poly v 3-5 for the cedar on 1st full inspection..
Overwintering survival was no difference , apart from amount of stores used.

 

[simonforeman]

I think when i do buy it will be wooden hives.... i do like the look of wood v poly but thats me...

I think we will have some OSR in range of the bees so that will help. My question earlier was if all the fieldsin range woul the village gardens including mine and the grass verges and field boundaries with the wild flowers etc be enough to get honey in my first full season?

I have been out on a sight seeing tour to see whats about and there is a local nursery that has about an acre of rose plants in rows, if they let them flower will they help?

 

[Gilberdyke John]

I think when i do buy it will be wooden hives.... i do like the look of wood v poly but thats me...

I think we will have some OSR in range of the bees so that will help. My question earlier was if all the fieldsin range woul the village gardens including mine and the grass verges and field boundaries with the wild flowers etc be enough to get honey in my first full season?

I have been out on a sight seeing tour to see whats about and there is a local nursery that has about an acre of rose plants in rows, if they let them flower will they help?

Just because a plant has flowers it doesn't follow it's going to be any use to honeybees. You need to research which flowers have available nectar that the honeybees short tongues can reach. That's a subject all on it's own.

 

[Millet]

Just because a plant has flowers it doesn't follow it's going to be any use to honeybees. You need to research which flowers have available nectar that the honeybees short tongues can reach. That's a subject all on it's own.

Perfect. .

 

[Poly Hive]

No differences? Oh dear, where to start.

Later to start brooding in Spring by two to three weeks than wood. Rapidly catch up and overtake by late April.

More honey off them. I'm sure ITLD will have some stats on that.

Swarms build the outside face of the foundation next to the wall, and in timber they start in the middle away from the walls.

Lighter to move, cheaper to buy. I mentioned more honey already so I'll just mention it again.

Less pollen in the BB as less need to insulate with the pollen blanket. So more brood which in turn means more bees and thus.... well said it twice already.

PH

 

[For want of a better word]

I have done no courses and i am a member of no association , the only person other than me that has been near my hive is my Lady friend when i broke my arm 2yr's ago, so take anything i say with a pinch of salt as most of my practical experience is from my own learning and personal experiences, i have however been guided along this tricky path by very patient/experienced and Clever forum members, one thing to remember do NOt give in when thing start going wrong get tough and work your way around it.

Experience has taught me not to be afraid to simply put the hive back together and walk away to think, rather than to rush in and do something with the bees you may regret later!
You will in time develop an empathy with your bees, whatever type of container you keep them in!

 

[coffindodger]

Experience has taught me not to be afraid to simply put the hive back together and walk away to think, rather than to rush in and do something with the bees you may regret later!
You will in time develop an empathy with your bees, whatever type of container you keep them in!

Mine too. Never feel, 'I've started, so I must finish' when doing an inspection.

 

[Amari]

Unless you get a massive dry spell and then a sharp cold snap like last year then you get sweet FA and what you do get crystalizes in the supers...

I can't agree Vortex. OSR honey is popular with my customers and I always extract before it crystallises.

 

[enrico]

I see some of you guys are saying have at least 2 hives so if 1 is lost there is at least another to rebuild from.....

Question...

I live on the outskirts of a small village in the country. Most fields of crops last year nearby were wheat or sugarbeet (do not know what this year will bring) there allot of grass verges and dykes and fences between the field's... will i have enough forage for 2 or more hives?

I have not seen any other hives around my area....

You can never tell what your honey crop will be. Some years it is nothing and you end up feeding and some years it is well into three figures and you can sell your excess.
The bees will find what they can and tend to go for crops of flowers, by crops I mean large numbers. One tree can give a million flowers, on e plant will give three or four! A crop from sycamore or lime or Hawthorne is as good as any other. You will start to see flowers you never knew existed. All I would say is never judge the following year's crop from the present year. They can differ tremendously.
E

 

[colinc]

Went into my first year with a nuc (overwintered) that I collected in late April. Ended the year due to misunderstanding swarm control advice with 3 full colonies all overwintered themselves with no feeding and we had a 12lb crop for ourselves. If we had controlled the swarms I am sure we would have had a good harvest.
We didn’t lose any bees fortunately as we recaptured the swarms.
Ask for help and plan ahead to avoid my (and no doubt others) mistakes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[drex]

I can't agree Vortex. OSR honey is popular with my customers and I always extract before it crystallises.

Totally agree. Some of my customers are now disappointed that all my OSR honey has been sold, and all I have left is from the Autumn crop. Both crops were good this year. The key to OSR is timing the harvest right.

 

[Heather]

Have someone wanting to sell 2nd hand empty National hives from a clean apiary.. Any clues as to prices??

 

[madasafish]

Have someone wanting to sell 2nd hand empty National hives from a clean apiary.. Any clues as to prices??

https://tinyurl.com/ycjhgrmz gives lots of real time examples of s/h hive prices.
(Warning: it's Facebook)

 

[sean-a]

For the OP have you checked out the options of polyhives before you take the ceder route , i started out with wood because it looks nice but i am now starting to accumulate poly hives.

+1

 

[The Poot in Somerset]

You can never tell what your honey crop will be. Some years it is nothing and you end up feeding and some years it is well into three figures and you can sell your excess.
The bees will find what they can and tend to go for crops of flowers, by crops I mean large numbers. One tree can give a million flowers, on e plant will give three or four! A crop from sycamore or lime or Hawthorne is as good as any other. You will start to see flowers you never knew existed. All I would say is never judge the following year's crop from the present year. They can differ tremendously.
E

That's encouraging Enrico as last year no honey crop and lots of feeding required.I'm in a valley which is all fields of grass for livestock. This year there appears to be an abundance of dandelions, but no fields of rape in reach. Last year bramble flowers seemed to be over very quickly - the fields are all bordered by brambles so here's hoping for better times this year.