National Feeder

[JonS]

Hi,

I am being advised to give my (arriving) nuc some feed when transferred into the brood box. I am looking at a 'frame feeder' (Thorne do a plastic one, and I see some other timber versions), which replaces one of the frames. Does anyone have experience of these?

 

[Erichalfbee]

I hate them. I used the float that came with them and hundreds of bees drowned.
Top rapid feeder always now

 

[drex]

I use home made frame feeders. Love them for certain jobs,e.g getting food close to a small cluster when temps are low. Not really convenient for feeding larger quantities ( pre winter say) . The insides are coated in sand for grip, and I cut up the thin polystyrene plates some pizzas come on for floats. No drowning.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I hate them. I used the float that came with them and hundreds of bees drowned.
Top rapid feeder always now

a 4 pint rapid feeder is fine for a bit of supplementary feeding such as when hiving a nuc.
Get the larger 'English' feeder for autumn feeding

 

[Ian123]

If you’re getting a feeder get at least a 2 1/2 litre bucket feeder you can at least then use for winter feeding. There’s some cheap plastic English type there’s also some poly types. Just get something that will take some volume you’ll need it at some point in the future. You just don’t need to fill the thing.
Don’t over feed the nuc if they don’t require it!

 

[Curly green finger's]

I hate them. I used the float that came with them and hundreds of bees drowned.
Top rapid feeder always now

.

 

[JonS]

Thanks all for the replies (and apologies for the delay in coming back). Rapid Feeder (and English feeder) is the way I will go.

One further question, if I may. I am assuming that an English feeder (for instance) would sit on top of a crown board. In such a configuration, the 2 holes in the most common crown board are not in the centre, which is where the access to the feeder would be. How does this work?

 

[Ian123]

Thanks all for the replies (and apologies for the delay in coming back). Rapid Feeder (and English feeder) is the way I will go.

One further question, if I may. I am assuming that an English feeder (for instance) would sit on top of a crown board. In such a configuration, the 2 holes in the most common crown board are not in the centre, which is where the access to the feeder would be. How does this work?

No straight on top, forget the crown board.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

No straight on top, forget the crown board.

depends on what size English feeder - , unless it's the jumbo one Maisie's supply, it's footprint is smaller than a crownboard.

simple solution - make another hole (or crownboard). The two holes are not much use for anything anyway, unless you're mad enough to use Porter escapes.

 

[Ian123]

depends on what size English feeder - , unless it's the jumbo one Maisie's supply, it's footprint is smaller than a crownboard.

simple solution - make another hole (or crownboard). The two holes are not much use for anything anyway, unless you're mad enough to use Porter escapes.

Yes good point there’s also those cheap plastic 1s but they line up with the crown board.

 

[Ian123]

Should also add to fit those plastic 1s turn the empty super they are housed in……

 

[JonS]

I assumed the need for the crown board since the description for the feeder said 'Centre cover prevents bees escaping'.. which sort of assumes that they could only get in via the centre hole.

I will refrain from asking what is wrong with Porter escapes, I am sure if I search on here.....

 

[ericbeaumont]

I assumed the need for the crown board

Forget the old-school crownboard and buy an Abelo Ashforth box feeder to use as crownboard, syrup feeder, fondant feeder (put the fondant on the top bars and turn over the box) and split board.

https://www.abelo.co.uk/shop/national-hive/poly-hives-national/ashforth-feeder/

 

[Sutty]

Actually last year I did use a crown board with porter escapes (provided "free" with the board) & they worked better than my other escapes!
Maybe the newer plastic springs are better??

 

[ericbeaumont]

what is wrong with Porter escapes

If you leave them on too long, bees propolise the fiddly bits and they don't work.

If a drone in a super tries to get through, it may get stuck and die, and the escape won't work.

The Porter is an ancient gizmo of little use and you're better off without.

If you really must use a thin ply crownboard, insulate it on top with 50mm of insulation board to prevent condensation on the bottom face in winter.

Above all, seal those feedholes! If you leave them open, nest heat will go up the chimney and bees will have to work harder and use more fuel to compensate.

 

[madasafish]

I use frame feeders without drowning bees. Secret is:
ensure inner walls of feeder are rough enough to grip ( glue surface and scatter dry sand or use coarse sandpaper to roughen walls.
Do NOT use a big float : either use lots of small twigs for bees to walk on or use lots of small pieces of wood to act as individual floats. (One big float tends to stick)

 

[Erichalfbee]

(One big float tends to stick)

That's what usually comes with frame feeders and was undoubtedly my problem

 

[JonS]

Have to say I like the look of the Abelo 'Ashforth' feeder...but I am on timber nationals rather than poly, and I havn't delved into the compatibility issues (I assume there must be some). I will contact them.

 

[wilvaughan18]

Like many of the replies I favour the rapid feeder. I have a miller feeder that I made that is also excellent, although I think these are very expensive when a cheaper rapid feeder is also excellent. The drowning bees issue was an issue for me when I tried frame feeders.