Moving Poly Hives by Car

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SuperHoney

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Wasn't sure which section to put this in...

So my hives are currently located on someone's property, however they have developed and allergy to bee stings and subsequently the hives need to be moved.

Looking up on YouTube wooden hives can be stapled together to stop them sliding during transport. I however own poly hives.

My question is can you staple poly hives together like wooden ones or duct tape perhaps?

Please let me know your thoughts and opinions asap as they're being moved Monday!

Many thanks
Mikey

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Wasn't sure which section to put this in...

So my hives are currently located on someone's property, however they have developed and allergy to bee stings and subsequently the hives need to be moved.

Looking up on YouTube wooden hives can be stapled together to stop them sliding during transport. I however own poly hives.

My question is can you staple poly hives together like wooden ones or duct tape perhaps?

Please let me know your thoughts and opinions asap as they're being moved Monday!

Many thanks
Mikey

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
This is what I did but there is more than one way I’m sure.

I have moved a maismore poly hive using this method.
1;duct tape all the joints And areas the boxes meet (to stop sliding)
2; one small 25mm ratchet straps In the groove closed tight.
3; more tape over Closed entrance block And ratchet at joints
4; bee suit on and leave mesh floor open.
5; keep suit on and drive to new spot.

If it’s less than 3 miles leave them Minimum 24hrs in new location. Put a bushy branch over the entrance and open the entrance to the smallest opening.

You’ll know straight away If it’s worked as they orientate.
 
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I would agree with the method of strapping them down although I have moved my Paynes Poly hives with just two ratchet straps at 90 degrees over the roof and under the floor. Tape over the entrance block and leave the mesh floor open.

HOWEVER In the current hot weather you can't leave them sealed up - they will all be dead within a few hours. Even if it's less than three miles you will have to let them out .. branches ove the entrance can help - if you are really worried about them returning to their previous location just leave a box behind and be prepared to go back and collect any that return to the previous site.
 
As Pargyle said, in hot weather, make sure they have a ventilation screen above their heads - but if you're only driving a short distance, the open mesh floor might be enough as long as you don't block it up.

To prepare them: Add the ventilation screen and once they're all home in the evening or early morning close the entrance door. Make sure it is secure and use duck tape if necessary. I don't use duck tape on the joints. Just strap them up tightly using at least two straps parallel to each other.

Load them into the car so that the frames are parallel to the sides of the car. If you're pushing the hives to get them deeper into the car, remember to push the floor - not the boxes.

Also, again as Pargyle said, if less than three miles, you'll have to make them aware that they're in a new location. Grass stuffed in the entrance or J-cloths, cut in strips and pinned over the door, can help.
 
As Pargyle said, in hot weather, make sure they have a ventilation screen above their heads - but if you're only driving a short distance, the open mesh floor might be enough as long as you don't block it up.



To prepare them: Add the ventilation screen and once they're all home in the evening or early morning close the entrance door. Make sure it is secure and use duck tape if necessary. I don't use duck tape on the joints. Just strap them up tightly using at least two straps parallel to each other.



Load them into the car so that the frames are parallel to the sides of the car. If you're pushing the hives to get them deeper into the car, remember to push the floor - not the boxes.



Also, again as Pargyle said, if less than three miles, you'll have to make them aware that they're in a new location. Grass stuffed in the entrance or J-cloths, cut in strips and pinned over the door, can help.
So I'm transporting them 6 miles away, so not worried about them returning home. I will be moving 4 and most likely they will be travelling on a trailer so I would assume they would get plenty of air flow.

One thing I am concerned about is that I've had a newly hatched queen and 2 queen replacements...how will they fair during transportation? [emoji51]

They need to be moved asap so not sure what to do??

I think the duct tape and rachet straps is a easy quick way so I'll definitely try that!

Cheers

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As others have suggest straps at 90 degrees, with duck tape on joints & entrance.
Frames aligned with car so they don't swing under acceleration and braking.
And do it late in the evening/dusk so the foragers have returned and it will be cooler for the journey.
 
I move hives and boxes regularly - Hives with Straps at 90 degrees tend to slip and twist leaving gaps for the bees to escape, better to have two parallel straps.
Close them up late evening and move immediately or close them at dawn and move so they're in the new position before the day warms up.
 
I move hives and boxes regularly - Hives with Straps at 90 degrees tend to slip and twist leaving gaps for the bees to escape, better to have two parallel straps.
Close them up late evening and move immediately or close them at dawn and move so they're in the new position before the day warms up.

The good thing about Paynes polys is they have a recess in the lid and slots in the floor that locates one hive strap, so the one at 90 degrees can be looped once around that strap. The Paynes polys also have locating lugs on the bottom of the brood box at the join with the floor so there is virtually no chance of twisting ..
 
... One thing I am concerned about is that I've had a newly hatched queen and 2 queen replacements...how will they fair during transportation? ...

The two replacement queens will be fine. As for the virgin queen - it would be best if she can stay until mated and laying - but if you have to move her, then that’s what you have to do, and hope for the best.

It’s not transporting the virgin queen that will be the problem, but that the shifting of location might confuse her if she’s not yet mated. I don’t know ...
 
I add wooden runners under the hive floors in hot weather so air can flow around the OMF,
 
The two replacement queens will be fine. As for the virgin queen - it would be best if she can stay until mated and laying - but if you have to move her, then that’s what you have to do, and hope for the best.

It’s not transporting the virgin queen that will be the problem, but that the shifting of location might confuse her if she’s not yet mated. I don’t know ...
Well she has hatched, about a week ago, but I checked for eggs yesterday and saw none so leave it another week and have a look again?

Thanks for the help by the way!

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You do not want to be inpecting a hive with a virgin queen waiting to mate.
Disturb her in a flight and she may not return..

I avoid the temptation and do nothing for two weeks.. and then a very quick cursory inspection .. and not between 11am and 4pm.
 
You do not want to be inpecting a hive with a virgin queen waiting to mate.
Disturb her in a flight and she may not return..

I avoid the temptation and do nothing for two weeks.. and then a very quick cursory inspection .. and not between 11am and 4pm.
Ahh ok so could have buggered it anyways...hmm I'll leave it another week but I can't leave them there longer than that.

I guess I'll move them in to place and re-inspection after a week...if no eggs I'll have to assume I need to order a new queen.

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Ahh ok so could have buggered it anyways...hmm I'll leave it another week but I can't leave them there longer than that.

I guess I'll move them in to place and re-inspection after a week...if no eggs I'll have to assume I need to order a new queen.

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No.
Wait three weeks as suggested already then a test frame before you get a new queen.
 
...hmm I'll leave it another week but I can't leave them there longer than that. ...

Ask nicely if your apiary landlords will mind the hive staying for up to a possible three weeks. With all of the colonies, except this one moved away, the risk of getting stung is greatly reduced. Advise them not to wear scents or other smelly products, or go near the hives, if possible.
 
Ask nicely if your apiary landlords will mind the hive staying for up to a possible three weeks. With all of the colonies, except this one moved away, the risk of getting stung is greatly reduced. Advise them not to wear scents or other smelly products, or go near the hives, if possible.
The reason I'm having to move them is the owner was stung and had a severe anaphylactic shock and is very insistent on having them moved out of the garden asap (despite the bees being very docile)...it's just a shame it's happened whilst I'm having new queen ect[emoji57]

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With poly unless its a small colony in a big box you must have a ventilated screen top. Periodically spray some water on to the screen. Remember its the evaporation of water that allows them to thermoregulate
 

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