Abelo Poly Hives - Standard Practice

[Madge]

If you can recommend a castellation spacer that fits the Abelo boxes, please could you share?

Why would want to use castellation spacers in an Abelo (or in any box, for that matter)? It's just asking for trouble.

 

[Newbeeneil]

If you can recommend a castellation spacer that fits the Abelo boxes, please could you share?

I don't use poly brood boxes so don't know the Abelo box but I have a few poly nucs, one of which I've just changed from a 6 to 8 frame thanks to Pargyle's recommendation. I was considering how to put castellations in it and the only way I can see is to reduce the surface that the frames rest on by a bee space using a hot knife, cut a thin groove into the top surface and adhere the castellations into the poly with a polyurethane glue........ I may try it

Why would want to use castellation spacers in an Abelo (or in any box, for that matter)? It's just asking for trouble.

There speaks someone who has never been taught how to inspect in a castellated brood box

 

[Jimmy]

Why would want to use castellation spacers in an Abelo (or in any box, for that matter)? It's just asking for trouble.

I have a few Abelo supers and a large stock of SN1 frames. I find spacers and Hoffman converters fiddly but can't bring myself to throw them out and start again with SN4s. Time wise I should just have a big bonfire.
If I could fix castellations I would.

 

[pargyle]

I was considering how to put castellations in it and the only way I can see is to reduce the surface that the frames rest on by a bee space using a hot knife, cut a thin groove into the top surface and adhere the castellations into the poly with a polyurethane glue........ I may try it

I only use castellations in supers but ..

a) I prefer top bee space

b) I like frames to sit on metal runners - sitting on the poly ledges in Paynes Nucs tends to lead to them being well stuck down with propolis.

c) My hives all benefit from insulation above the crownboard - including my Nucs.

My solution .. I put either a Nuc super or a Nuc eke on the top of the brood box. At the base of this I fasten a batten all the way round the bottom edge 8mm up from the bottom. A clear crown board is then glued to the underside of this batten which gives me the space to put runners on the frame landings and also gives me top bee space. To put the runners in I just cut a slot the same as you have in Paynes full size brood boxes.

Sounds like a bit of a faff but it's not that bad to do.

The super or eke is actually then just a deep crown board and I fill that with insulation and the roof goes on top.

You can just about see what I do in some of the pictures here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/125609724@N03/albums/72157659314817230

 

[ericbeaumont]

I use castellations in my brood boxes which are a pain with DN4’s. In fact in my 14x12’s I run the side bars though my planer .

I used castellations in a couple of boxes one year (think I made them incorrectly) and it's not as bad a system as it sounds. The checked frame sits on the castellation while you go through the next. I know one other - Roger Patterson - who uses them in his BBs, but maybe it's a select club with few members.

I rebuilt the box and removed the castellations that winter...

 

[Ian123]

“I know one other - Roger Patterson - who uses them in his BBs, but maybe it's a select club with few members.” Well that should have been enough of a clue for you.

 

[Newbeeneil]

I know one other - Roger Patterson - who uses them in his BBs, but maybe it's a select club with few members

I agree it's an acquired taste but there is a select club at Wisborough Green who think is perfectly normal because that's all they have known.

The hives I maintain for others use Hoffman frames or plastic spacers so I use both systems and to be honest I much prefer castellations as there is no build up of propolis between frames and the spacing is always exact.
IMHO the "rolling" of bees argument is a bit of a red herring as if you know what you are doing the maximum vertical movement in contact with the bees is the 9mm thickness of the top bar which is hardly likely to upset most bees I've dealt with.
Enough of this as we have crept off topic. - enjoy another lovely day in lockdown folks!

 

[Madge]

I have a few Abelo supers and a large stock of SN1 frames. I find spacers and Hoffman converters fiddly but can't bring myself to throw them out and start again with SN4s. Time wise I should just have a big bonfire.
If I could fix castellations I would.

I have quite a few SN1s and DN1s in use. I have added Hoffman converters to some, or just use my thumb as a spacer. I'll never be tempted to use castellation spacers.

Back to your query about fitting castellation spacers to an Abelo: I don't think it's possible to fit them (unless you perhaps glue them in place) because of the boxes' hard plastic lug-risers.

 

[pargyle]

“I know one other - Roger Patterson - who uses them in his BBs, but maybe it's a select club with few members.” Well that should have been enough of a clue for you.

Roger is an acquired taste isn't he ? I think he's mellowed over the last ten years though - he used to be 'my way or no way' - he's more 'my way is best' these days. I find him a very entertaining speaker and instructor and he certainly is a thinking beekeeper ~ the world is a richer place for people like him.

Back to castellations - I put them in one of my boxes as I couldn't find the runners (not unusual in my chamber of secrets !) but the problem I had is that I run foundationless frames and the bees tend to build fatter combs as a result. So, I found that the minimal bee space they left with castellations was causing problems on inspections. With runners and a dummy board I can pull the dummy, and then there is always space to pull the frame back away from the next frame and put it back in the box after a look - all the other frames follow on and at the end of the inspection all the frames can be pushed back into place with a single pry of the hive tool - no more disturbance. It's the way I was taught and it works for me but, as always in beekeeping, what works for you is what is important.

Isn't it interesting and pleasant on here at the moment ? Opinions are permitted, rational arguments and different views are made in good spirits - no personal attacks, caustic or sarcastic comments. I'd almost forgotten what this forum used to be like .. welcome back.

 

[Swarm]

I've had or seen them in brood boxes, too many sharp edges was my biggest complaint.
May be wrong but 11 slot spacing is nearer the original spacing for BS nats in the days of imperial measurement?

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Hivemaker has castellations in his brood boxes

 

[Swarm]

Hivemaker has castellations in his brood boxes

Yep.
Got to be honest, the best combs I've seen were on castellations.