Moving Hives

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Fair point. Of course by autumn the top two lifts will be off again and the hives will be only three lifts high. I'm also going to put in some hurdle fencing on the windward side in anticipation of another Storm Eunice (which blew over the hen-house :oops:).

But I do agree that as soon as one gets into the Demaree form then you end up with something of a sky-scraper - and mine only has a single super between the two brood boxes and one on top. If it had two it would be even more humungous...

Personally, I would get 2 straps on each (1 on the little ones, perhaps), with the strap passed over the hive roof and - crucially! - under the stone slab - so that the hive can't flip without the slab flipping too

Strapping the hive to itself isn't much use.

Just as a warning:

Storm Eunice | Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum (beekeepingforum.co.uk)
 
Yup, that's a disaster I'd like to avoid if I can. Awful pictures. The downside of moving the hives from their previous position is that they now no longer have a large brick wall to shelter from westerlies behind - although I was at one stage during Eunice seriously worried that the brick wall might itself be blown over onto the hives!

I'm sure that you are right that, come the autumn, strapping each hive down to its stone plinth (or even to an angle-iron stake) will be the only sure protection against a strong wind.
 
I need to move my hives a short distance (400m). I'm aware of the 'not more than 3m; not less than 3 miles' mantra. So in practice how does one move hives as I need to?
Despite what you have been told by others it is actually not too difficult to move hives 400m at this time of year. The key thing you need to achieve is for the bees to know that something has changed and they are in a different place - you do this by providing several triggers. The bees will then undergo reorientation flights and you are sorted.
So the triggers I use are
1) close up the hives the night before - sponge from old cushions is an easy way to do this - preferably the day before a decent flying day
2) move the hives early next day to new position - preferably the outlook from the entrance is different such as the direction facing or trees/fences/hedges nearer or further away
3) Cut some small branches from a bush or tree that has dense foilage.
4) Get hold of a bunch of sprigs of a strong smelling herb - e..g mint or lemon balm
5) After you have left the colony for 3-4 hours in the new position slightly open the entrance but immediately stuff the a bunch of bruised herb sprigs into the opening - sponge makes this easy to do
6) Arrange the branches over the front of the entrance so they form a leafy barrier that bees can't easily fly through leaving a gap you can put your hand through to the entrance.
7) Once in place reach through and gradually loosen the herb sprigs, maybe removing a few until you have a gap that the bees can just get through oneor two at a time (wear gloves!)
8) That is more or less it - provided it is a good foraging day they will gradually all come out and reorient over the afternoon and will push the sprigs out
9) In the evening remove the branches
I move colonies less than a mile 20 or 30 times a year and this works everytime - I think the bruised herb sprigs are actually much more important than the barrier of branches because the smell immediately alerts the whole colony to something being different along with the blocked entrance.
 
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Yup, that's a disaster I'd like to avoid if I can. Awful pictures. The downside of moving the hives from their previous position is that they now no longer have a large brick wall to shelter from westerlies behind - although I was at one stage during Eunice seriously worried that the brick wall might itself be blown over onto the hives!

I'm sure that you are right that, come the autumn, strapping each hive down to its stone plinth (or even to an angle-iron stake) will be the only sure protection against a strong wind.

The wind can blow in summer too. Why would you only protect your hives from disaster in winter?
 
I move colonies less than a mile 20 or 30 times a year and this works everytime - I think the bruised herb sprigs are actually much more important than the barrier of branches because the smell immediately alerts the whole colony to something being different along with the blocked entrance.
I might try that.
I have oregano that I could use
My bait hive always catches bees and swarms tend to come in the morning leaving the foragers all day to orientate
Moving the bees to the apiary quarter of a mile away always leaves returnees so the colony usually stays on the potting shed roof till the winter
 
I might try that.
I have oregano that I could use
My bait hive always catches bees and swarms tend to come in the morning leaving the foragers all day to orientate
Moving the bees to the apiary quarter of a mile away always leaves returnees so the colony usually stays on the potting shed roof till the winter
As I say I find it a fairly bomb proof method- I would probably mix oregano with something that has softer leaves e.g. grass so they can enlarge the entrance more easily and also remember to bruise it to maximise the scent released
 
As an update, by yesterday there were very few bees around the old site and so I think that by today they will have successfully re-orientated. So, it's taken about 5 days but as far as I can see there has been a minimal loss of bees. Might well have been better if I'd known and followed Bazzer's advice at the start. I'll know next time...
 

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