Message from National Bee Inspector

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Our association, together with all the Lincs ones and probably others - has received this message from the National Bee Inspector Andy Wattam (really nice helpful chap).

Trust he wont mind me reproducing this here. Most will know all this, but its a timely reminder for us novices. He inspects up our way so is referring to local flows.

Could I ask you please to put out a reminder to all of the
District Secretaries about members looking at the food levels of
Their bee colonies, and also highlight Varroa Management at this
Critical time.

I have been out inspecting quite a bit recently and almost exclusively
Have come across bees which are starving, some to the point where their
Demise was only hours away - I have even taken to carrying syrup in the
Car with me, as, in general terms beekeepers have nothing in stock for
contingency feeding. In some cases I have had to pour syrup into empty
Comb and onto the top-bars for the bees to feed to get them going again
As they were at that 'creeping' point which signs almost imminent demise
Of the stock

A very sad state of affairs I am sure you would agree? – These are not
Isolated incidents, but on some days are reflected in every site we visit.

Also in many cases I am seeing increased levels of Varroa - this becomes
More and more ‘visually’ evident in colonies whom are short of food as
the brood nest diminishes and the mites move onto the bees themselves. Again in
Some of the cases the Beekeeper had neither thought about, nor prepared
To carry out any sort of Varroa controls, or doing much in the way of
Monitoring. Can I emphasise again that where insert boards are used with
Open Mesh Floors the boards must be made sticky before use, otherwise
A consistently low mite count will be realized, as the mites will simply
Walk off! Often back into hive to continue their quest.

I am seeing in lots of cases of people using icing sugar as a 'Varroa Treatment'
It should be borne in mind that Icing Sugar is to be seen as a complimentary
Technique to other forms of Integrated Pest Management. As a standalone it
Rarely has sufficient knock-down to achieve the full controls on its own
Unless it is done regularly, skillfully and with the correct Open Mesh Floor
In place, IE: With sufficient drop beneath to ensure that the mites cannot
Return to the Hive, and sufficient cover onto the bees – the value of just
Sprinkling icing sugar onto top bars is very questionable, although in some
Cases it has helped to keep the bees alive! By giving them something to eat.

Again something else which rears its head regularly is where a beekeeper
Has taken delivery of a Nucleus – filled up the compliment of the Brood Chamber
with Foundation And provided no supplementary feed – the bees are sitting there,
just surviving On the drawn comb with no hope of expansion to survive the winter.

Please Please – Heft hives to check for Weight, Look inside and see
What is happening, Feed now to ensure winter survival unless hives are
So heavy you can hardly lift them.

Keep an eye on the wasp situation and reduce entrances / set traps where
Necessary.

We are now approximately three weeks into a dearth of nectar, unless you
Are within flying distance of a specific crop which is providing something
Of value, and from what I can see in most areas a minimum of 10 days before
The Ivy comes properly into flower to be of use.
The link below will take members to the Fact Sheets Section of
Beebase where they will find information on many of the subjects
Outlined

https://secure..fera.defra.gov.uk/beebase/index.cfm?pageid=167


Many Thanks and Kindest regards

Andy


Andy Wattam
National Bee Inspector.
 
Thanks for posting Mon.A

I carry a bag of sugar in the car this time of year.

If I run out of syrup I can at least give an emergency feed of sugar,you can pierce a hole in the bag and dunk in water to saturate or even the sugar tipped dry on the crownboard is better than nothing.
 
Good call....

Thanks for posting the message for us.
We have Himalayan balsam nearby and a fair amount of forage, but last weekend one of my hives was a lot lighter than the others: the very strong colony. For newbies this can be confusing, but of course a strong colony with loads of bees will eat itself out of house and home in a very short time if limited food is coming in. The others were OK - pottering along with stores around the edges of several frames, and still quite heavy. But the biggie was almost emptied of stores in just a week - just the bad weather.

They've found some more balsam today, and are all very busy, but I've given them half a gallon of feed just to get back on track again.

NB - I tried out the "please sirs do you have any burst/split bags of spilt sugar I could take for my poor, starving bees" approach on three different supermarkets. Our Tescos insists that they rarely split or spill packages :)smilielol5:ha!), and the Co-op had no storage space and clears spillages up immediately. But our little corner shop was as good as gold, and I was beckoned into a store room with several bashed and split but otherwise clean bags of sugar still within their outer, plastic wrapping. Took the whole lot for free (about 12kg in total) in return for helping to move some boxes (shopkeeper had a bad back). Fair exchange!
 
I noticed at my last hive inspection, that out of 2 supers, the top one - previously full - is now about half empty.
 
A very interesting point about making the varroa board sticky. Does anyone have a suggestion as to the most effective way of doing so
 
A very interesting point about making the varroa board sticky. Does anyone have a suggestion as to the most effective way of doing so

I have been thinking about this - would a thin layer of oil (vegetable?) work. It's only meant to be in for a few hours, not all the time, so should not attract too much vermin interest.

Open to other suggestions.
 
I have been thinking about this - would a thin layer of oil (vegetable?) work. It's only meant to be in for a few hours, not all the time, so should not attract too much vermin interest.

Open to other suggestions.

yes i use
crisp-n-dry-spray-product.png
 
Our association, together with all the Lincs ones and probably others - has received this message from the National Bee Inspector
Many Thanks and Kindest regards

Andy


Andy Wattam
National Bee Inspector.[/COLOR]

Hope this nudges those that haven't practiced basic husbandry.

The heavy heft is a good indicator too.

Thanks for posting
 
I will be using

6eee0b5a24b99569bf2dcc1fad9fda43.jpg

taking up space in the garage for 18 years and now it has a use!

I wouldn't. Considering that a small amount of petrol is an effective way of killing a hive of bees I would definitely not be spraying light mineral oil anywhere near them. The skull and crossbones on the tin may be relevant here.

Veg oil, on the other hand, is excellent. Wipe it on good and thick, the little buggers can walk over a light smear, I use about a tablespoon.
 
I wouldn't. Considering that a small amount of petrol is an effective way of killing a hive of bees I would definitely not be spraying light mineral oil anywhere near them. The skull and crossbones on the tin may be relevant here.

....

and yet people put paraffin wax on hives with no observable effect ...
the stuff dries to a non volatile sticky waxy surface. Very unlike petrol. the spraying wont be near the bees..
 
the oil bears a toxic symbol due to the risks of inhalation of mineral oil. sprayed on a board under the hive will be no problem.

petrol kills bees by asphyxiation (or whatever equivalent is for insects) - AFAIK 1 litre of petrol turns into around 800 litres of vapour (http://www.practicalphysics.org/go/Experiment_363.html).

And how certain are you that it doesn't contain a volatile constituent to enable penetration of the filter fabric?

Bagsy not try it on my bees first.
 
BTW light mineral oil is present in many cosmetics and may be ingested for constipation - just make sure it don't go down the wrong way and give you lipoid pneumonia!
 
Thanks for posting this MonA. A timely reminder!
 
I have been thinking about this - would a thin layer of oil (vegetable?) work. It's only meant to be in for a few hours, not all the time, so should not attract too much vermin interest.

Open to other suggestions.

I made this oil drawer setup to catch everything that falls through the mesh, it can be taken out to leave an open floor.
Drawer inserted and nothing/vermin can enter the space of the mesh, totally sealed off from underneath/sides etc.

I use cooking oil and food safe white oil which is cheap too and can be obtained from most french polish suppliers.

Also mix up a light grease and do the verticals.
 
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