Marking Queens

[Zoth]

I have always been put off marking my Queens as I was told the bees can sometimes object to this and throw the Queen out. Is this an old wives tale, in my advancing years and consequent failing eyesight I have great trouble in seeing her. Although I usually go on the assumption that if I can see evidence that she is there than that will do. All the same it would be nice to see her if only to avoid squashing her.

 

[TOBY-3652]

My first year last year and i marked 11 queens didnt get any rejected. But did damage 1 that i had 2 kill in the end and replace so all i can say it worked 4 me and it certainly helped 2 see the queen most times

 

[Winker]

One of mine I did last year, i think i hurt he leg (Press-in Cage) She was superseded 2 months latter and i still have an unmarked queen

 

[YorkshireBees]

Marked almost all of my queens last year with no rejection problems, did almost damage one queen in doing so but on next inspection she was laying well!

I say almost as I stopped marking later in the season as if I damaged a queen then they would have no time to get a new one before winter.

 

[iand]

I now leave my new queens a while to get established before marking. Just so that the Q is up to speed, with her own brood emerging and so fully accepted by the general worker population.

 

[Andy Duff]

Not found it worth risking damaging the queen, so I don't mark her. With our Carniolians she is usually covered in workers as soon as the frame she is on is lifted from the hive.

 

[countryman]

did it once and they balled her in a week and superceeded

 

[susbees]

Marked easily 50 last year and damaged none. I use the tube shaped plunger cage with blue ring and SOFT net (not hard plastic) at the end (sold eg. by Th o r n es). Only problems were in apideas when returning mated Amm-type queens to the Carni-type bees they had been with since pre-hatch, who on several occasions decided to ball the queen. Solved by caging the queen with fondant for a couple of days. With homebred queens no trouble.

 

[Ely]

I don't mark mine. I have huge clumsy hands and don't trust myself. I also don't see a point in interfering with the queen if it isn't necessary, I.E monitor eggs, brood, capped brood for evidence. Clipping wings has its advantages but I still like to leave her well alone and concentrate on getting better at other forms of swarm control.

 

[Heather]

After marking, leave her for a few minutes for the smell of the pen to evaporate- then return her into a less crowded frame area. About the only time a little puff of smoke useful.
And yes, those plunger cages are the most gentle. I wont hold one again after a passing bee stung her as I held her gently!!

 

[Arfermo]

:did it once and they balled her in a week and superceeded

Ditto - Q was balled. Pity 'cos she had been a very good Q.

 

[Hebeegeebee]

I clip and mark and have not yet had a problem. If you can pick up it's much easier than messing about with crown of thorne cages in my view. The POCSA pens (I think that's right) don't seem to be a problem as far as smell goes.

I do have one queen called Blue Antenna - you can guess why. She was static on the frame and I thought I could just blob some paint on her. She should have been picked up how I usually do it or held on the comb and marked. I had expected her to be superceded but she is going through her second winter.

Like iand, I leave for 3 weeks or more before marking; once she has settled down and is not crashing around the place as young'uns do.