MAQS in spring - opinions

[boywonder]

Hi... it's been a long time since my last post (apologies), but I would be interested in opinions generally, and also any specific experiences of others who have attempted to use MAQS as a springtime varroa treatment since it came to this country. I looked for related threads, and whilst there are some interesting insights and links (e.g. http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/archive/index.php/t-2636.html - where e.g. Finman's views on Formic Acid are clear), I cannot see any recent 'reports from the field'.

I am entering my 5th year (4th full year), and, after having started beekeeping thinking I could get by with a single Autumn Apiguard treatment, plus the occasional icing sugar-dusting in-season (minimal intervention etc...) the winter loss of a colony, some DWV, plus some huge loads I have since seen in my hive(s) led me to quickly consider a more efficacious spring treatment.

OA trickling or sublimation has never appealed; I don't know why. I do appreciate that in chemical terms, both are organic acids, and that, in its manufacture, Formic Acid is no more or less 'organic' than OA (i.e. I know they don't go boiling up vat-loads of ants ) ... but I was just drawn to that option; and hence to MAQS strips.

Now, I know MAQS strips have the following two disadvantages over OA:
1) Cost
2) Timing of application, given the need to apply on a day where the temp >10c

... However, I am in my 3rd year now of using these as a spring treatment, and am again expecting to experience great success when I take out the inspection board tomorrow, and as I continue to monitor daily drops. It appears very effective indeed.

For me, it is a complete no-brainer, for the following two reasons:
1) The Formic Acid penetrates brood cappings, and therefore means that all mites are affected; not just phoretic mites. It is therefore a one-shot treatment, and appears (in my limited field experience at least) to have no adverse effect on the brood, or on the queen (though she might go off-lay for a day or two)
2) Simplicity of application. Open the hive, smoke them down and pop the strips on. Done

I am therefore surprised that I have not heard anyone else talk about using MAQS at this time.

Is there a reason (i.e. am I an idiot ? have I just been lucky ??) ? Thanks.

 

[Plenty of honey]

I dont use MAQ's however what ive heard is that spring use is difficult because of generally lower temperatures. I would be interested to hear anyone else comments as i am looking at this as an alternative treatment, purely to compare what works best for me.
Why dosent Vaping Oxalic acid interest you?

In the summer, if you treat with MAQ'S and it goes really hot you can literally fry the hive!

 

[boywonder]

Why dosent Vaping Oxalic acid interest you?

In the summer, if you treat with MAQ'S and it goes really hot you can literally fry the hive!

a) perception really; more kit, more faff, repeat treatments, and it has an 'x' in its name, whereas FA just says 'ants' to me

b) I would never be inclined to try in high temperatures. My own nasal membranes can only just tolerate the vapours at low temperatures !

 

[mbc]

b) I would never be inclined to try in high temperatures. My own nasal membranes can only just tolerate the vapours at low temperatures !

I like this answer, organic treatments are often touchy/feely and using your senses to guide you seems right.

 

[Hedgerow Honey]

I was thinking of doing the same as I have a box from last year that did not get used. Has anyone else used them in the spring?.

 

[Millet]

What i do not understand is why you did not ask Batman or Commissioner Gordon this question first.

 

[Finman]

.
To be succesfull formic acid needs 17C out temps.

 

[Little John]

I wouldn't use MAQS for two reasons: firstly, the need to purchase at beekeeping prices; and secondly I've heard of too many reports of queens being killed as a result of it's use.

Wood Cleaner, on the other hand, is dirt-cheap and I've yet to hear a report of deaths from it's use. Might be worth re-considering ?
LJ

 

[Hivemaker.]

For me, it is a complete no-brainer, for the following two reasons:
1) The Formic Acid penetrates brood cappings, and therefore means that all mites are affected; not just phoretic mites. It is therefore a one-shot treatment, and appears (in my limited field experience at least) to have no adverse effect on the brood, or on the queen (though she might go off-lay for a day or two)

It does kill a proportion of the mites under the brood cappings... but not all of them, there have also been a lot of queen losses due to this and other formic treatments.

 

[Finman]

and secondly I've heard of too many reports of queens being killed as a result of it's use.

Wood Cleaner, on the other hand, is dirt-cheap and I've yet to hear a report of deaths from it's use. Might be worth re-considering ?
LJ

When temps are over 25C, queen deads occur. It is rare in Britain in spring.

Then to treat full grown hive in the middle of summer makes no sense.

 

[Finman]

It does kill a proportion of the mites under the brood cappings... but not all of them, there have also been a lot of queen losses due to this and other formic treatments.

I looked from internet 2 hours treatment advices about formic acid, but it did not cleared out, how to do it, it is a catastrofic mess!

.But formic acid treatments have been done 20-30 years, and it continues.

In Finland we have routine advices , and there is no need to invent new ones.
.

MAQS has been used in Canada 15 years.

 

[Finman]

.
A Finnish recipe to treat with 65% formic acid

Made by professional beekeepers. Written by 1500 hive owner.

----------------------------

2 - 3 litre plastic bag, which can be sealed (minigrip)
Put into the pag a kitchen towel

Pour 1,2 - 1,5 dl 65 % formic acid into bag. Closer for storing.

Put the bag onto top bars, and pull 3 cm towel out from pag

Acid should be evaporate 10 - 12 gr formic in a day in one box Langstroth hive and

in double box langstroth evaporates 12 - 15 g/day.

in 10 days the bag should be dry


You may measure with digital balance how fast it evaporates.



Use always rubber clovers. Formic acid scalps your skin from your fingers if you do not use.
.

You may reuse towells and pags next time.

Close the mesh floor

-

 

[Finman]

.

NOTE, that formic acid treatment will spoil your metallic excluders.

 

[Plenty of honey]

.



NOTE, that formic acid treatment will spoil your metallic excluders.

That's really useful Finman, thank you. Can you just confirm the dosage in quantity and strength you pour in to the bag?
Thank you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Millet]

I wouldn't use MAQS for two reasons: firstly, the need to purchase at beekeeping prices; and secondly I've heard of too many reports of queens being killed as a result of it's use.

Wood Cleaner, on the other hand, is dirt-cheap and I've yet to hear a report of deaths from it's use. Might be worth re-considering ?
LJ

One in a Million i suppose but it has happened.

http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=38586&highlight=odds

 

[boywonder]

.

NOTE, that formic acid treatment will spoil your metallic excluders.

That is a very fair point. I experience this - and although the damage is nothing that can't be fixed (in the main) by a scrub down with some soda crystals/wire wool, that is not something you are going to want to be doing mid-season, if at all.

 

[Finman]

Galvanisation goes away and grid becomes rusty

 

[chipper]

My experience with MAQS.... Treated 200 colonies in September...suffered 25% losses in honey production colonies...compared with only 4% losses in my overwintered Nucs (50) treated with Apivar....
I concluded MAQS treatment must have been responsible for Queen losses..
With the variable volume of brood boxes used in the UK I think its difficult to calculate the "Right" dosage of MAQS...
It also rusted most of the vents in the rooves and badly rusted the metal frame runners....

 

[Erichalfbee]

My experience with MAQS.... Treated 200 colonies in September...suffered 25% losses in honey production colonies...compared with only 4% losses in my overwintered Nucs (50) treated with Apivar....
I concluded MAQS treatment must have been responsible for Queen losses..
With the variable volume of brood boxes used in the UK I think its difficult to calculate the "Right" dosage of MAQS...
It also rusted most of the vents in the rooves and badly rusted the metal frame runners....

Blimey. That's awful. Time to invest in a Sublimox?