maisemore poly

[dannygolf1959]

I know this is a well used thread topic but as a new beekeeper. I was wondering if anyone else has purchase a maisemore poly hive.
I have purchased two of them and find them great value for money. Also great workable hives. Both of the hives have bees on every frame(10x 12by14).
Am I being fortunate or is this the norm. All coments most welcome

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I can't fault their nucs - and a heads up today they now do commercial poly hives and nucs

 

[birdsandbees]

I've got three of them, I like them a lot, especially that they look like traditional type hives where my Paynes one by comparison looks like a lump of polystyrene.
Comparing the two I like that the Paynes came with metal frame runners where the Maiemore ones didn't and not only does this mean sticky frames but it damages the edges of the hive when you lever them free.

 

[Campion]

I've got three of them, I like them a lot, especially that they look like traditional type hives where my Paynes one by comparison looks like a lump of polystyrene.
Comparing the two I like that the Paynes came with metal frame runners where the Maiemore ones didn't and not only does this mean sticky frames but it damages the edges of the hive when you lever them free.

I've not had this problem with Swienty poly National and my bees love propolis.

 

[Cussword]

I've got three of them, I like them a lot, especially that they look like traditional type hives where my Paynes one by comparison looks like a lump of polystyrene.
Comparing the two I like that the Paynes came with metal frame runners where the Maiemore ones didn't and not only does this mean sticky frames but it damages the edges of the hive when you lever them free.

I have one, I succumbed after finding their nucs excellent.
I agree, it is really easy to use.
I overcame the runner problem by fitting the metal runners you can buy off the internet .

.

 

[birdsandbees]

I must admit I have since purchased some runners from Paynes but haven't fitted them as its a lot of faff to take all of the frames out into another brood box, I will get around to it but you'de think they would supply them as standard?

 

[Swarm]

I must admit I have since purchased some runners from Paynes but haven't fitted them as its a lot of faff to take all of the frames out into another brood box, I will get around to it but you'de think they would supply them as standard?

They don't supply them with their wooden hives either, the bevelled edge on the poly is the same design as their wooden hives. Don't use your hive tool and lever against the hive edges, you prise the frames apart.
I use swienty and top bee space so no runners at all and no damage.

 

[BMH]

They don't supply them with their wooden hives either, the bevelled edge on the poly is the same design as their wooden hives. Don't use your hive tool and lever against the hive edges, you prise the frames apart.
I use swienty and top bee space so no runners at all and no damage.

How do you use Swienty and top bee space?

I have Swienty but they are bottom bee space?

 

[Erichalfbee]

How do you use Swienty and top bee space?

I have Swienty but they are bottom bee space?

No runners.
They are my best boxes.
I have one Paynes left....the bees chewed the other and I cannibalised it for insulation.
I agree with Swarm.....lever the frames against each other, NOT the hive, to lift and no damage

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I agree with Swarm.....lever the frames against each other, NOT the hive, to lift and no damage

even with wooden hives, probably one of the reasons ITLD has banned 'j' tools in his apiaries

 

[Madge]

even with wooden hives, probably one of the reasons ITLD has banned 'j' tools in his apiaries

With a J-tool I lever one frame against the next one - not against the hive. I thought ITLD's objection to the use of a J-tool was to protect bees from getting squashed, but I might have misunderstood him. (I don't squash the bees using it.)

 

[Eyeman]

How do you use Swienty and top bee space?

I have Swienty but they are bottom bee space?

My Swienty are bottom bee space.
The only damage I've caused is when releasing the queen excluder. Care needs to be taken when breaking the propolis seal and avoid any levering.

 

[dannygolf1959]

sticking frames down

I don't know if my bees are the average or the norm but I don't have any problem with them sticking frames down. They glue down Boxes,Queen excluders top boards and the like. The frames on the maisemore polys have a very small raised lip that the frames sit on (maybe 2mm wide) so even if they stick the frames to it, its barely noticeable when lifting frames.

 

[birdsandbees]

To be fair I've only damaged one by accident and took a chunk out of the edge the frames sit on but with the metal runners added I think they will be spot on, the bees seem to like them as do I.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I thought ITLD's objection to the use of a J-tool was to protect bees from getting squashed, but I might have misunderstood him.

I think he was alluding to people using the tool as a hook to lever frames vertically upward thus damaging a lot of frames.

 

[Madge]

I think he was alluding to people using the tool as a hook to lever frames vertically upward thus damaging a lot of frames.

Oh. That's what I do! I've never damaged frames though (or squashed bees).

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

But it's not what the j tool was designed for - it's meant to make it easier to separate the frames before lifting

 

[Madge]

But it's not what the j tool was designed for - it's meant to make it easier to separate the frames before lifting

I don't think so. There's a notch to the side of the J-curve specifically for levering a frame out, and it works very well - but you've got to watch out not to squash bees underneath the J.

To separate frames, the traditional (is it?) hive tool with the scooped chisel-edge works better.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

There's a notch to the side of the J-curve specifically for levering a frame out

Well, we'll have to agree to disagree, can't find it written anywhere that that is the case, but regardless, it's a surefire way of a beekeeper being able to apply a lot more force to a frame than is wise and causing breakages (seen it happen) therefore it should not be used in that way it may be fine if you have all day to insect a hive and can be particularly careful but if you are under the kind of time constraints that Murray builds into inspections then damage is going to occur.

 

[Madge]

... but regardless, it's a surefire way of a beekeeper being able to apply a lot more force to a frame than is wise and causing breakages ...

That might be so - but in that case, use the scooped hive tool (as Murray advised), not the J-tool. As for me, I'm faster with a J-tool and haven't caused any breakages.