Horsley split....or demaree?

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Jonnyl

House Bee
Joined
Mar 31, 2018
Messages
278
Reaction score
42
Location
Stirling
Hive Type
14x12
Number of Hives
6
Can I ask for some advice please. 14x12 box with 9 frames of brood and a super almost full. I've been looking to increase as soon as the weather improved but still wanted to have a couple of supers this year. I looked through the BB and found 4-5 play cups but nothing else so found the Q and placed her on her frame, sealed and open brood frame, into a shiny new box with some foundation and drawn comb. New BB on the floor and QE on. Empty super (drawn comb) on top followed by the nearly full (7 full frames) super. Horsley board on (opposite direction) and then the new BB with all the brood and adhering bees, CB, kingspan and roof. Left the door closed on the HB so they can get through the QE square and also have the air flow through the mesh square. The books say to go back in 3-4 days and open the drawer on the HB however on reflection what I've actually down is a demaree, right? My question is do I need to open the HB? If I leave it as it is and return in a few days and find QCs then it's pretty much job done? I can harvest the QCs in a nuc then go back to one box or place another frame of eggs in the top BB and let the process start again? Any advice/options or constructive criticism always greatly appreciated. Thank you all for your time.
 
A Demeree it is if there were no charged QC's with RJ, I would open the top entrance other wise the drones can't get out.
 
I can't see that you need either operation.

Your brood box is full and super is full. You need to put a new box. The hive needs brooding space. Bees like to store pollen next to brood. Brood box needs too space for honey.

Weathers are bad, BUT put the next new box under the brood box. When it has foundations, it inhibits swarming fever.

Your 2 box hives is nothing miracle and it only needs more space.

You say that super is full. Then of course the hive needs space for new nectar, and first of all, space for new bees.
 
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Main thing is that ensure the enlargening of the hive. It is first and normal operation what to do.

No idea to try to stop swarming, because the hive has no sign about swarming, except that warning that hive is full.
 
Main thing is that ensure the enlargening of the hive. It is first and normal operation what to do.

No idea to try to stop swarming, because the hive has no sign about swarming, except that warning that hive is full.
Finman. Went in again today, 6-7 QC which I divided into two nucs. I've read that these should be knocked down (as emergency cells) but they didnt have the fever before I did it and again I've read that in that scenario it's cool to do so? They were obviously young QC so not developed but I can monitor that in the coming days and choose nearer the 8-9 days. Is my thinking correct? Thank you.
 
I can't see that you need either operation.

Your brood box is full and super is full. You need to put a new box. The hive needs brooding space. Bees like to store pollen next to brood. Brood box needs too space for honey.

Weathers are bad, BUT put the next new box under the brood box. When it has foundations, it inhibits swarming fever.

Your 2 box hives is nothing miracle and it only needs more space.

You say that super is full. Then of course the hive needs space for new nectar, and first of all, space for new bees.
Can you explain please why you’d put the new brood box under the existing? At the moment, when I add a second brood I move a couple of frames of brood into the top box, put foundation either side and put drawn comb in the lower box on either side, to fill the gap. Ive found that comb is drawn better in the upper rather than lower box.
Would like to understand the reasons for the way you do it
Thankyou
 
Can you explain please why you’d put the new brood box under the existing? At the moment, when I add a second brood I move a couple of frames of brood into the top box, put foundation either side and put drawn comb in the lower box on either side, to fill the gap. Ive found that comb is drawn better in the upper rather than lower box.
Would like to understand the reasons for the way you do it
Thankyou
Your weathers have been cool long time, and if you put the empty box over the brood box, the heat of the brood escapes from brood to the empty box.

Like in nature, bees use to draw combs down wards , because they cannot draw them upwards.

Now the situation is different, because weathers are turning good.

But you need space for honey too.

I do not split the brood area with empty combs or with foundation, if the hive is as small as your hive. 2 box hive is not big and it does not stand much 100% expansion at once.

In your case I would put box of super foundations over the excluder and box of brood foundations under the brood box. Bees go down when they are able to do that.
 
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Your weathers have been cool long time, and if you put the empty box over the brood box, the heat of the brood escapes from brood to the empty box.

Like in nature, bees use to draw combs down wards , because they cannot draw them upwards.

Now the situation is different, because weathers are turning good.

But you need space for honey too.

I do not split the brood area with empty combs or with foundation, if the hive is as small as your hive. 2 box hive is not big and it does not stand much 100% expansion at once.

In your case I would put box of super foundations over the excluder and box of brood foundations under the brood box. Bees go down when they are able to do that.
Thanks for the advice
 
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