Hive Roof

[marmite]

I'm building a new roof and the last time I made one it was very tight-too tight. If I give it an extra quarter of an inch is that likely to be a problem or is it meant to be bee tight?

 

[ratcatcher]

I have a few roofs that are not a tight fit, and never had a problem with robbers or anything

 

[beenovice]

There is normally a baton inside the roof (4strips of wood, one on each side). It is these batons that actually sit on the brood box or super. If you make the roof bigger, just make these batons a little fatter so that the batons still seal against the box. If you are only talking a quarter of an inch, I doubt you will need to do anything.

 

[oliver90owner]

Of course it is meant to be bee-tight. That should not be an issue anyway. Wasps and robbers might be an issue - trying to get in and you finding them under the roof, but they should not be able to access the boxes anyway (that is what the crown board is for).

The snug fit is easily achieved by suitable width battens. Look at the old roof. Making a new one is one thing, changing the design is another.

I made mine much deeper than the standard issue - that helps them stay on better in windy weather. At the same time, I've never had a roof blow off. I add extra winter insulation, too. Mine are actually lighter than the standard issue, but not as robust for throwing around.

 

[beenovice]

The snug fit is easily achieved by suitable width battens.

It seems I cannot even get spellings right at the moment. Of course it is batten, and not baton. I hope you got my gist.

 

[Arfermo]

I prefer the roof to be a tight fit so I don't need to nail through the galvanised metal lid. This avoids having to renail when the nails rust out. Your choice.

 

[marmite]

Being a newcomer(pardon the pun) sometimes things are not obvious. They are just learnt at the beginning and become common sense with the passage of time.When I inspect my bees some get under the roof-If it's bee tight they must die then.

 

[oliver90owner]

Not if it is a WBC. They should have bee escapes fitted just for that purpose. No need, or excuse, to trap lots of bees with other roofs.

 

[marmite]

Mine are nationals-what kind of escape do you recommend?

 

[REDWOOD]

Mine are nationals-what kind of escape do you recommend?

None

 

[REDWOOD]

http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/natroof.html
The little picture on the bottom will explain a thing or two

 

[Arfermo]

Being a newcomer(pardon the pun) sometimes things are not obvious. They are just learnt at the beginning and become common sense with the passage of time.When I inspect my bees some get under the roof-If it's bee tight they must die then.

All of mine have side vent slits under the edges of the cover board on all 4 sides which allows for all seasons ventilation Winter and Summer. I do not insulate either and never have done and leave the holes in the CB open too. If the rumours are right about SBIs finding excessive varroa due to the mild winter, insulation can only exacerbate the problem. Leaving the holes in CB open under the roof ensures the bees do not need to die - unless you squash some as the lid goes on. Suggest you have a look at some commercially made roofs before you go too far.

 

[johnnie1uk]

Isnt a tight fit bad ventilation? my roof is slightly bigger front to back with double width batten at the front so it can be either totally closed or open as you wish by sliding it backwards or forwards. If "open" with a crown board theres no probs with intruders anyway.

 

[richardbees]

The BS National design has a ventilated space between the roof and wooden crownboard - which absorbs moisture from the hive. It doen't need to be wasp proof as the holes in the crownboard should be covered when not used for a feeder or Porter bee escape.

A heavy brick on top stops them blowing off....

 

[user 6228]

All of mine have side vent slits under the edges of the cover board on all 4 sides which allows for all seasons ventilation Winter and Summer. I do not insulate either and never have done and leave the holes in the CB open too. If the rumours are right about SBIs finding excessive varroa due to the mild winter, insulation can only exacerbate the problem. Leaving the holes in CB open under the roof ensures the bees do not need to die - unless you squash some as the lid goes on. Suggest you have a look at some commercially made roofs before you go too far.

Then explain our low varroa and low DWV with insulation more than twice the value of poly and 4 to 6 times a sealed wooden hive and must be more than 10 times the value of a top ventilated hive...


and the survival of our very small colonies as well..

your attribution of cause is wildly simplistic given the complex relationship of varroa survival to environmental factors, especially humidity

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

It's the crown board that should be bee tight - the roof can be as slack as you like - it just sits on the crown board (Don't have battens inside my roofs either - just kingspan - no vents, waste of time - and I don't get any problems with damp/mould/whatever.

 

[BeeJayBee]

It's the crown board that should be bee tight - the roof can be as slach as you like - it just sits on the crown board (Don't have battens inside my roofs either - just kingsapan - no vents, waste of time - andi i don't get any problems with damp/mould/whatever.

 

[user 6228]

the roof insulation needs to be airtight sealed to the heated surface for maximum effectiveness.(thats why builders need lots of foil tape to insulate houses to the new regs)

 

[protheroe]

It's the crown board that should be bee tight - the roof can be as slack as you like - it just sits on the crown board (Don't have battens inside my roofs either - just kingspan - no vents, waste of time - and I don't get any problems with damp/mould/whatever.

same here

 

[richardbees]

.....having a cavity in the roof also prevents the need for an eke when putting on a feeder or block of fondant.