Hive Building

[ApiarIAN]

As I’ve already got a table saw, band saw, router etc I thought I’d have a crack this winter at making my own hives. I had a trip to the saw mill near Usk to pick up some Western Red Cedar which they kindly planed to 19mm and precut to 300mm x 1M planks (plus a few 1.2M) and these are now drying out ready for cutting to size. The boards are probably similar to the timber used in 2nds so hopefully I can work around the knots or at least make cuts that don‘t have the knots near to any edges.
By my calculations I reckon that, barring accidents, I’ve probably got enough wood here for around 5 complete hives (Langstroth size) with 2 supers each - at least 4 hives anyway . I’ll pick up the frames in the sale next weekend plus queen excluder and floor mesh and some frame runners. Timber cost for this pile was just £150 so in my books this is definitely a worthwhile exercise. Wish me luck

 

[Bluebell1985]

Good luck. I struggle to put a flat pack together on the other hand

 

[Brown Beek]

Not everyone’s idea of fun, but having made all my wooden hive equipment (bar my first Thorne hive), there is a pleasure in making your own kit - if you have the time. I envy you your equipment/ tools, the timber and the task.

Enjoy!

 

[ApiarIAN]

My dilemma is box joints or rebates - I know typically Langstroth hives are made with box joints but I hear that rebate joints are strong enough for hives (and easier/quicker) - any comments from those who have already gone down this route?

 

[Brown Beek]

IMHO rebates with good glue and screws may well do and will save a load of time and phaff, but box joints are stronger and ‘prettier’.

 

[Gilberdyke John]

IMHO rebates with good glue and screws may well do and will save a load of time and phaff, but box joints are stronger and ‘prettier’.

I don't believe bees care if their box is pretty or not. Any creature making it's home in a hole in a rotten tree isn't choosing it on appearances

 

[JamezF]

I don't really think it matters which type of the two joints you use in this instance. Weatherproof PVA glue and nails/screws should be more than strong enough for the purpose. Or even glue and dowel, if you want to avoid stuff going rusty (assuming you don't want to use stainless nails). I'm sure I've read somewhere that the oils in cedar aren't particularly kind to "normal" steel, but over what kind of time period I have no idea.

James

 

[JamezF]

Come to think of it, one of our local sawmills advertises that it has cedar available. I have a planer/thicknesser. I might have to enquire as to prices for rough sawn cedar planks.

James

 

[Brown Beek]

I don't believe bees care if their box is pretty or not. Any creature making it's home in a hole in a rotten tree isn't choosing it on appearances

…but then the bees are not the ones doing the choosing, the beekeeper is.

I’ll take a ‘pretty’, well made hive over a rotten log every time.

 

[jeff33]

19mm thickness.. . let's hope your timber dries straight!! Gonna get some myself but making a batch of 3 frames nucs and perhaps a few supers. Nothing like woodworking!!

 

[Newbeeneil]

19mm thickness.. . let's hope your timber dries straight!! Gonna get some myself but making a batch of 3 frames nucs and perhaps a few supers. Nothing like woodworking!!

I agree, I get my timber cut to 2-3mm oversize, allow it to season, THEN plane it. If the OP's timber warps during drying they may have some problems.

 

[Nick Lang]

Interesting thread!
Can you update as you progress....I would be very interested to see how you get on

 

[philipm]

Normally buy mine unplaned ,never seemed to have a problem with warping i think its important to stack the planks on a level surface. Dont forget a face mask when sawing or cutting Cedar is not very good for the lungs.

 

[blackcloud]

Box joint is pretty and clever but bear in mind you're not building boxes to keep creased sepia photos and grandads old briar in.
Its outdoor equipment so will need to be robust and weatherproof.Box joints have a lot of material removed and have many many ingress points.
Simple butt joins aren't as strong(if you plan to jump up and down on the boxes)so the joints that feature in the BS standard seem to be the good compromise.
Oddly enough...

 

[Timbeez]

I don't really think it matters which type of the two joints you use in this instance. Weatherproof PVA glue and nails/screws should be more than strong enough for the purpose. Or even glue and dowel, if you want to avoid stuff going rusty (assuming you don't want to use stainless nails). I'm sure I've read somewhere that the oils in cedar aren't particularly kind to "normal" steel, but over what kind of time period I have no idea.

James

I use drywall screws as the don’t rust.

 

[ApiarIAN]

Normally buy mine unplaned ,never seemed to have a problem with warping i think its important to stack the planks on a level surface. Dont forget a face mask when sawing or cutting Cedar is not very good for the lungs.

Thanks @philipm good to hear. I had read that Cedar is a very stable wood, hence its use outdoors in all weathers and the boards seem to be ok just now. The chaps at the mill reckoned they’d be workable with just 2-3weeks of air drying.

 

[Poly Hive]

AppiarIAN? Back in the day I made Lang broods and supers using pine planed all round and to keep the costs down I biscuit jointed the planks together then ripped to the size needed. With at least one if not two glue joints in the mix having a very strong joint was important. I invested in a dovetail jig and with the router and bit after making a fair bit of kindling I got it set up to the point it was a tap in fit. Combined with a damn good glue those boxes never warped.

Just saying.

PH

 

[user 20297]

I use drywall screws as the don’t rust.

Unfortunately, they do.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

they're usually the first to rust

 

[deemann1]

Make a jig for a router
I made one up in an hour one evening for jointing roofs i take it your making commercial hives