God I love growing our own

[JamezF]

New greenhouse finally up! Replaced two smaller ones so more efficient use of space plus this one has proper height. The back faces north so wondered if it’s worthwhile adding bubble wrap or reflective insulation to the walls to help trap heat in and/or reflect the sun. Anyone tried that?
Will get some power added for heat mats but it’s mostly going to be unheated.

Looks good. So many greenhouses seem to be made far too low for any normal person to work in them comfortably. Getting the glazing in on the wall closest to the fence looks like it might have been fun.

Whether it's worth insulating and how probably depends on how you're going to use it. For raising plants in the late winter through the summer I'd probably not bother. I do know of people who have their greenhouse permanently lined with horticultural bubble wrap (which is supposed to be more robust than the standard stuff) because they keep tender orchids and similar plants that do not tolerate the temperatures we have in the colder months in the UK.

Given that West Sussex is hardly the coldest place in the country I think I'd be inclined to leave it for a year and see how things go.

James

 

[pargyle]

Looks good. So many greenhouses seem to be made far too low for any normal person to work in them comfortably. Getting the glazing in on the wall closest to the fence looks like it might have been fun.

Whether it's worth insulating and how probably depends on how you're going to use it. For raising plants in the late winter through the summer I'd probably not bother. I do know of people who have their greenhouse permanently lined with horticultural bubble wrap (which is supposed to be more robust than the standard stuff) because they keep tender orchids and similar plants that do not tolerate the temperatures we have in the colder months in the UK.

Given that West Sussex is hardly the coldest place in the country I think I'd be inclined to leave it for a year and see how things go.

James

I think there's probably enough space to get between the greenhouse and the fence - otherwise the glass on the outside is never going to get cleaned (or the roof glass on the fence side).

I hope the auto closure on the vents closes the top light down completely otherwise that inch or so gap is going to drain the warmth inside the greenhousen out faster than you can say frostbite ! Even in sunny sussesx they get chilly nights at times. My greenhouse top vents fit very badly and in winter I insert a piece of polycarbonate under the vent to stop the warmth escaping and it makes a dramatic difference. I have an old paraffin heater for the nights when it really does get frosty and a pint of paraffin and a short wick keeps the temperature above freezing for about 50p a night. Down here in the Costa del Fareham I rarely use the heater for more than a dozen or two nights each winter so it's not an excessive cost.

My greenhouse floor was constructed mostly from old storage heater bricks and you would be surprised at how much heat they retain - even on colder days when the sun is shining they are warm to the touch at the end of the day. What was best about them ... they were FREE !!!

 

[Rob H]

This looks like a good thread to ask on, Im looking to move property to East Devon next year (property already agreed) and looking at a poly tunnel to improve the length and type of crops to grow for personal use but also on a small scale at the front gate and local farmers markets etc. The land available isn't going to be an issue but can anyone give any advice on choice of sizes, domestic/commercial, options etc. Thanks

 

[Erichalfbee]

Get one with straight sides so that you can put a gutter on to collect rain water

 

[Amari]

New greenhouse finally up! Replaced two smaller ones so more efficient use of space plus this one has proper height. The back faces north so wondered if it’s worthwhile adding bubble wrap or reflective insulation to the walls to help trap heat in and/or reflect the sun. Anyone tried that?
Will get some power added for heat mats but it’s mostly going to be unheated.

Virtually identical to ours, also backed by a fence - erected about four months ago! Is yours a Robinsons?

 

[JamezF]

I hope the auto closure on the vents closes the top light down completely otherwise that inch or so gap is going to drain the warmth inside the greenhousen out faster than you can say frostbite !

They should be adjustable, though some are definitely designed rather better than others.

James

 

[philipm]

I have one greenhouse with bubble wrap insulation and a tubular heater on a thermostat .It allows me to bring on seed earlier and keep tender plants frost free over winter

 

[JamezF]

This looks like a good thread to ask on, Im looking to move property to East Devon next year (property already agreed) and looking at a poly tunnel to improve the length and type of crops to grow for personal use but also on a small scale at the front gate and local farmers markets etc. The land available isn't going to be an issue but can anyone give any advice on choice of sizes, domestic/commercial, options etc. Thanks

In the summer I mainly use mine for growing tomatoes, peppers (including chiles), cucumbers and aubergines. I have grown butternut squashes as well for the last few years and they do very well, but they're very boisterous plants and I'm pondering on a different solution now.

For the winter I germinate lettuces, mustards and other salad crops in module trays and then as soon as the summer plants are removed the salads go straight in. They will see us most of the way through Spring. A month ago I also sowed a load of random pea seeds (left over from previous years, or saved from mangetout and sugar snaps that hid well enough not to get harvested and got too old to eat), three to a cell in modules. They're now a couple of inches tall and will very shortly go into any spare patch I can find in the polytunnel just to sprawl on the ground. We'll start pinching off the shoots near the end of this month and use them in salads as well. Once those plants come out then I spread compost and tomatoes etc. go back in as soon as the weather is suitable.

I also plant garlic at the edges of the beds in the polytunnel around the start of November, which makes it easy to remove in the summer when other plants are still growing. I've grown some garlic outdoors too, but last year it was hammered by rust.

I use a greenhouse for growing melons and huge amounts of basil, but they might work in a polytunnel too, especially the melon varieties that are a bit more tolerant of cool weather. Basil would probably work quite nicely interplanted with tomatoes once the lower leaves have been removed from the stems (of the tomatoes).

Regarding the polytunnel itself I'd definitely get crop bars. I run wires along the length of my tunnel using the crop bars for support. The wires then provide an anchor for the strings that support the tomato plants. They're useful in all sorts of other ways too. I'm not sure the "anti-drip" covers are worth it though. I didn't have one initially and then when it came to replacing it I got an anti-drip one. It still drips. And repair tape doesn't stick to it at all well either. The type where you bury the edges of the cover in a trench are cheaper, but they're a bit of a pain when you need to replace the cover.

I'd really recommend going "no dig" for a polytunnel too, even if it's not your thing elsewhere in the garden. It does make life much easier. Don't use raised beds either. They just provide easy homes for snails, slugs and ants.

As regards size it's probably more a case of what you think you can manage. I have a 30'x14' and it produces a huge amount of food. I'm not sure I'd get a larger one, but I might get an additional one, perhaps not as big, if I had anywhere flat enough. I'd probably use that for the squashes in the summer and move the chickens into it for the winter whilst we have all the issues with bird flu. The bigger you get the harder the cover is to manage when you want to put it on/replace it. I could perhaps manage ours myself, but anything bigger would be difficult I think.

Northern Polytunnels seem to have a pretty good reputation as a supplier.

James

 

[Rob H]

Get one with straight sides so that you can put a gutter on to collect rain water

Thanks, I do want

In the summer I mainly use mine for growing tomatoes, peppers (including chiles), cucumbers and aubergines. I have grown butternut squashes as well for the last few years and they do very well, but they're very boisterous plants and I'm pondering on a different solution now.

For the winter I germinate lettuces, mustards and other salad crops in module trays and then as soon as the summer plants are removed the salads go straight in. They will see us most of the way through Spring. A month ago I also sowed a load of random pea seeds (left over from previous years, or saved from mangetout and sugar snaps that hid well enough not to get harvested and got too old to eat), three to a cell in modules. They're now a couple of inches tall and will very shortly go into any spare patch I can find in the polytunnel just to sprawl on the ground. We'll start pinching off the shoots near the end of this month and use them in salads as well. Once those plants come out then I spread compost and tomatoes etc. go back in as soon as the weather is suitable.

I also plant garlic at the edges of the beds in the polytunnel around the start of November, which makes it easy to remove in the summer when other plants are still growing. I've grown some garlic outdoors too, but last year it was hammered by rust.

I use a greenhouse for growing melons and huge amounts of basil, but they might work in a polytunnel too, especially the melon varieties that are a bit more tolerant of cool weather. Basil would probably work quite nicely interplanted with tomatoes once the lower leaves have been removed from the stems (of the tomatoes).

Regarding the polytunnel itself I'd definitely get crop bars. I run wires along the length of my tunnel using the crop bars for support. The wires then provide an anchor for the strings that support the tomato plants. They're useful in all sorts of other ways too. I'm not sure the "anti-drip" covers are worth it though. I didn't have one initially and then when it came to replacing it I got an anti-drip one. It still drips. And repair tape doesn't stick to it at all well either. The type where you bury the edges of the cover in a trench are cheaper, but they're a bit of a pain when you need to replace the cover.

I'd really recommend going "no dig" for a polytunnel too, even if it's not your thing elsewhere in the garden. It does make life much easier. Don't use raised beds either. They just provide easy homes for snails, slugs and ants.

As regards size it's probably more a case of what you think you can manage. I have a 30'x14' and it produces a huge amount of food. I'm not sure I'd get a larger one, but I might get an additional one, perhaps not as big, if I had anywhere flat enough. I'd probably use that for the squashes in the summer and move the chickens into it for the winter whilst we have all the issues with bird flu. The bigger you get the harder the cover is to manage when you want to put it on/replace it. I could perhaps manage ours myself, but anything bigger would be difficult I think.

Northern Polytunnels seem to have a pretty good reputation as a supplier.

James

Hi James, it sounds like you've been doing this for quite a while and are an old hand at it now. Have you ever considered running a hydroponic system in the tunnel at all? It seems amazing the extra volume of growing space you can achieve with even a modest system. Cheers, Rob

 

[Erichalfbee]

We have drip watering in ours which runs by gravity from a couple of IBCs that collect water off a greenhouse attached to the tunnel and a field shelter.
Our tunnel has curved sides We found the hoops buried in a hedge when we moved so all we had to buy was the polythene.

 

[Rob H]

We have drip watering in ours which runs by gravity from a couple of IBCs that collect water off a greenhouse attached to the tunnel and a field shelter.
Our tunnel has curved sides We found the hoops buried in a hedge when we moved so all we had to buy was the polythene.

That was a lucky find and saved you a few quid but I suppose did limit you to what was there.

 

[Erichalfbee]

That was a lucky find and saved you a few quid but I suppose did limit you to what was there.

Yes which is why I said to look for a straight sided tunnel. Stan did try sticking plastic gutters on it but nothing worked very well and we would have had to bury a collection tank in the ground.
Wouldn’t be without it though.

 

[JamezF]

Hi James, it sounds like you've been doing this for quite a while and are an old hand at it now. Have you ever considered running a hydroponic system in the tunnel at all? It seems amazing the extra volume of growing space you can achieve with even a modest system. Cheers, Rob

I've been growing my own veggies for something like 25 years now, but I'm still learning loads

In some ways hydroponic growing appeals to me but the need to buy all the nutrients feels like quite a negative from an environmental (and cost) point of view. If I could find a way around that then I might be tempted to give it a go on a small scale to see what I think.

It wasn't in my mind when I started out and I'm not sure I ever deliberately made the decision, but over the years I think I've evolved a mindset that I'd like the food that I produce to have as little dependence on the outside world, particularly businesses, as possible. Especially for the recurring purchases. So this year for example I'm at a stage where I can produce almost all the compost I need (I'd guess I'm using around six to eight tonnes a year) and buy in relatively little, and I'm growing a high proportion of open pollinated non F1 plant varieties that I can save the seed from to grow again. The latter isn't always possible (you need hundreds, ideally probably thousands, of sweet corn plants to maintain genetic diversity, for instance), but I'm trying to make it work where I can. I think the only other regular external "inputs" I have are fuel/electricity for the shredder/hedge trimmer/lawnmower etc. and (during some of the summer last year at least) water.

Actually I guess there's paper and cardboard too. Where practical a load of cardboard packaging and waste paper ends up in the compost heap or is used as weed suppressant when I make new beds. I don't allow much of it to be put in the recycling

James

 

[Moobee]

Looks good. So many greenhouses seem to be made far too low for any normal person to work in them comfortably. Getting the glazing in on the wall closest to the fence looks like it might have been fun.

Whether it's worth insulating and how probably depends on how you're going to use it. For raising plants in the late winter through the summer I'd probably not bother. I do know of people who have their greenhouse permanently lined with horticultural bubble wrap (which is supposed to be more robust than the standard stuff) because they keep tender orchids and similar plants that do not tolerate the temperatures we have in the colder months in the UK.

Given that West Sussex is hardly the coldest place in the country I think I'd be inclined to leave it for a year and see how things go.

James

This is in place of two greenhouses that were in that space but jammed up against the fence and one was right behind the garage so only half of it had decent light.
This one has a couple of feet behind it for maintenance.
I ran the other two as cold greenhouses with the occasional heat mat/propagator when weather was very cold.
Overwintered a few plants that hate winter wet and started off veg growing in early spring. With better space & height, looking forward to using it more productively. I was always bashing my head on the autovents on the other two. This one is nearly head height at the eaves.

 

[Moobee]

Virtually identical to ours, also backed by a fence - erected about four months ago! Is yours a Robinsons?
View attachment 35370

It’s a Hercules Trafalgar. I wanted a robust one with extra support & the glass held in place by bar capping instead of clips as it gets pretty windy here in the winter.

 

[Moobee]

I think there's probably enough space to get between the greenhouse and the fence - otherwise the glass on the outside is never going to get cleaned (or the roof glass on the fence side).

I hope the auto closure on the vents closes the top light down completely otherwise that inch or so gap is going to drain the warmth inside the greenhousen out faster than you can say frostbite ! Even in sunny sussesx they get chilly nights at times. My greenhouse top vents fit very badly and in winter I insert a piece of polycarbonate under the vent to stop the warmth escaping and it makes a dramatic difference. I have an old paraffin heater for the nights when it really does get frosty and a pint of paraffin and a short wick keeps the temperature above freezing for about 50p a night. Down here in the Costa del Fareham I rarely use the heater for more than a dozen or two nights each winter so it's not an excessive cost.

My greenhouse floor was constructed mostly from old storage heater bricks and you would be surprised at how much heat they retain - even on colder days when the sun is shining they are warm to the touch at the end of the day. What was best about them ... they were FREE !!!

It was actually quite warm when I took the photo so the vents had opened. They’re fully shut today!
I’m hoping the concrete floor will help with thermal gain…..
I have used the tea light double clay pot heater when it was freezing with fleece over everything to create a mini microclimate when it’s been very cold. Having outside power put in next week so I have options.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

It’s a Hercules Trafalgar.

A name like that would suggest that they are aiming at the daily mail reading gammon slice of the market

 

[philipm]

An old trick that my dad showed me years ago ,was instead of buying plant feed fill a sack with horse manure and put it in the water butt.Just remember its there and dont use the water for washing things down.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

An old trick that my dad showed me years ago ,was instead of buying plant feed fill a sack with horse manure and put it in the water butt.Just remember its there and dont use the water for washing things down.

Sheep's Lala's (as my aunty Olive used to call them) are much better and give a more 'nutritious' liquid feed.
There is an enclosed area of mountain land (the Palè) close cropped grass with a high density of sheep when the farmer had gathered, when we were kids my grandfather would take us up there and send us out with our little buckets and spades to collect the little nuggets and there was always a prize for the one who gathered most.
They then went into a hessian sack and seeped in a water butt until needed.

 

[Lazy K]

I have 2 dandelions blooming as well as a few cinquefoil so I bought a pot of blooming spring bulbs for my little friends.