the honey could have lower than 20% content but not meet the other criteria in Paragraph 8 and be classified as bakers honey. Water content is the most likely though but i can imagine some heated <20% moisture honey gets sold as bakers too
As it comes from the hive, in shards.In what form do you sell the propolis?
It seems to me there are two questions.
1) Is what is in the jar honey as per the regs?
2) if it is not honey then is it bakers honey as per the regs?
Can it be both?
It seems to me there are two questions.
1) Is what is in the jar honey as per the regs?
2) if it is not honey then is it bakers honey as per the regs?
Can it be both?
My customers would disagree.To me it is rotten honey. Not for human consumption.
Well my soft set that started to bubble tasted lovely.
My customers would disagree.
Rank stew, the sort that gives Finman night sweats, smells like the tap room the morning after a lock-in at a
As it comes from the hive, in shards.
It seems to be supplied online in balls of various sizes which means it must have been formed by human fingers; the consumer must smash it when cold or warm it and cut a piece off. Customers like the absence of process, so I leave out that faff and supply in small pieces.
I remove propolis with a clean stainless steel hive tool over a big clean sheet of paper, from frames or hive parts without poly, paint, dead bee or detritus; quite a lot is rejected.
Manley side bars are a good source because crushed bees are unlikely to be found there, as the frames are undisturbed through the season. Avoid getting it sticky by collecting before uncapping supers; it's another needless process to have to wash it.
Fine plastic garden mesh for almost zero outlay can be used or a robust plastic screen for £22, but I haven't yet achieved good yields using either (I didn't pay £22!).
After collection the pile is gone through at least twice, piece by piece on a white plate under a bright light; anything risky is rejected. Big lumps are best frozen, smashed gently in a pestle and mortar and doube-checked; this selection process must not be under-estimated.
Glass jars with aluminium lids aren't cheap but display propolis well; the side of the jar and the lid are both labelled. I sell two sizes, 10g/£4, 25g/£10.
17.1 percent water (or perhaps it's 17) and below will not ferment I believe. I think it was JW White's research that established that, but I can't find it at the moment. At that percentage it doesn't matter what yeasts are in it apparently.Interestingly, I have several jars that are fermenting. You can hear the pressure release as the lid comes off. No bubbles but a fermenting smell and a strong metallic taste. Just measured the water content of one of these jars and it comes in at 18.5. I seem to get this every year with some jars! I use them for cooking and they are fine but.....18.5?
17.1 percent water (or perhaps it's 17) and below will not ferment I believe. I think it was JW White's research that established that, but I can't find it at the moment. At that percentage it doesn't matter what yeasts are in it apparently.
Thanks mdotb. Excellent. Do you know if there has been any further experimentation since then (not necessarily by them), on fermentation over a longer time period ?White stated that below 17.1 it did not ferment within one year irrespective of the yeast levels they identified, and between 17.1 and 18 it did not ferment within one year if there were fewer than 1,000 yeast spores per gram. However I would add that those were still just experimental results; there is no particular hypothesis for there being a step change at that level, and they were dealing with the sugar tolerant yeasts that they found naturally in the honey - those could of course be different in different parts of the world.
Honey Composition and Properties, J W White Jr and Landis W Doner, published in Beekeeping in the United States, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Science and Education Administration, 1980
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