Extractor questions.

[Jules59]

This maybe be useful to the first time purchaser:
I bought a 4 frame tangential from STBK, quite early on in my beekeeping.
One thing I didn't realise at the time was that these cheap extractors seem to be designed for frames with short lugs. This causes the Hoffman frames etc to drag in the extracted honey long before the honey reaches up to the level of the outlet. I, eventually, got fed up of having repeatedly to stop and tip the extractor, so I added wooden spacers to raise the frames inside the cage.

 

[Murox]

This maybe be useful to the first time purchaser:
I bought a 4 frame tangential from STBK, quite early on in my beekeeping.
One thing I didn't realise at the time was that these cheap extractors seem to be designed for frames with short lugs. This causes the Hoffman frames etc to drag in the extracted honey long before the honey reaches up to the level of the outlet. I, eventually, got fed up of having repeatedly to stop and tip the extractor, so I added wooden spacers to raise the frames inside the cage.

Another simple point is to realise that central spindle/axel sits in a cup which contains a loose ball bearing, often lost on its first cleaning. You could also just extract with the gate open of course.

 

[Jules59]

Another simple point is to realise that central spindle/axel sits in a cup which contains a loose ball bearing, often lost on its first cleaning. You could also just extract with the gate open of course.

That would'nt help me as the lugs dragged in the honey before the honey reached up to the gate (open or closed)

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

One thing I didn't realise at the time was that these cheap extractors seem to be designed for frames with short lugs. This causes the Hoffman frames etc to drag in the extracted honey long before the honey reaches up to the level of the outlet.

have you thought of moving the basket part of the extractor further up the central spindle - there's usually a bolt or grub screw clamping it on to the spindle and I have seen them work lose before now so the basket slips down to the bottom

 

[Gilberdyke John]

have you thought of moving the basket part of the extractor further up the central spindle - there's usually a bolt or grub screw clamping it on to the spindle and I have seen them work lose before now so the basket slips down to the bottom

Was it ever assembled correctly I wonder?

 

[pargyle]

have you thought of moving the basket part of the extractor further up the central spindle - there's usually a bolt or grub screw clamping it on to the spindle and I have seen them work lose before now so the basket slips down to the bottom

Both of the extractors I've owned have had grub scews that lock the cage to the spindle so you can adustt the height of the cage. Even if the extractor does not have this adjustment it should not be too difficult in engineering terms to modify it so that it can be adjusted.

 

[Jules59]

have you thought of moving the basket part of the extractor further up the central spindle - there's usually a bolt or grub screw clamping it on to the spindle and I have seen them work lose before now so the basket slips down to the bottom

Not possible - no adjustment - its all welded SS rod

 

[Jules59]

Was it ever assembled correctly I wonder?

Nothing to assemble by me - its came as is. But it could have been manufactured incorrectly.

 

[Jules59]

Both of the extractors I've owned have had grub scews that lock the cage to the spindle so you can adustt the height of the cage. Even if the extractor does not have this adjustment it should not be too difficult in engineering terms to modify it so that it can be adjusted.

Well, I could have hacksawed the cages away from the central rod and then got someone to re-weld them for me or make some adjustable attachment. Or simply make some spacers from wood - worked for me.

We're talking a 4 frame tangential extractor that cost £160 new.

 

[Murox]

That would'nt help me as the lugs dragged in the honey before the honey reached up to the gate (open or closed)

A friend of mine bought a three frame version that was clearly designed for short lugged frames once, in fact it wasn't well designed at all. To make it work without too much hassle we strategically placed some cable ties to support the frames, luckily there was enough headspace to enable that. We were also able to "adjust" the position of the axle where it entered the gearing mechanism at the top.

 

[pargyle]

Not possible - no adjustment - its all welded SS rod

Ah .. right. How close is the basket to the top of the cage ? Is there enough space to lift the whole thing up a bit ? You only need a couple of inches to clear the honey collecting in the bottom, If there is enough space it's an easy fix.

Add a bit of stainless rod to the bottom of the spindle and cut a corresponding bit off the top.

You could either get someone to weld a bit more on (a couple of jars of honey to your local engineering shop would sort that) or... if you are at all DIY minded - you could put a thread on the bottom of the spindle, buy a piece of matching stainless rod from ebay, tap the end of that and use a joiner.

If you were really lucky you could use the bit you cut off the top to add to the bottom !

Simples ... as long as there is enough space to lift the whole thing up a bit.

 

[Jules59]

Ah .. right. How close is the basket to the top of the cage ? Is there enough space to lift the whole thing up a bit ? You only need a couple of inches to clear the honey collecting in the bottom, If there is enough space it's an easy fix.

Add a bit of stainless rod to the bottom of the spindle and cut a corresponding bit off the top.

You could either get someone to weld a bit more on (a couple of jars of honey to your local engineering shop would sort that) or... if you are at all DIY minded - you could put a thread on the bottom of the spindle, buy a piece of matching stainless rod from ebay, tap the end of that and use a joiner.

If you were really lucky you could use the bit you cut off the top to add to the bottom !

Simples ... as long as there is enough space to lift the whole thing up a bit.

The central shaft passes through a bearing at the top and is then welded to a gear. You would have to cut a bit out off the shaft and add that to the bottom of the shaft and re-join the shaft. But I would need to find someone who can weld SS , take it to them and pay them probably. My fix, is done, works and was free.