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Tim1606

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Feb 24, 2010
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Location
Chertsey, Surrey, UK
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I am planning a larger expansion next year, and I have another site given to me to use that I plan as a queen rearing apiary. I could probably get about twenty hives on here so that gives you some idea of the space.

I want to setup a couple of drone mother hives so I can try to flood the area with the drones that I want. I know I will not be guaranteed a mating from my drones but at least I can put some of the odds in my favour.

I have a couple of colonies that seem suitable I just need some advice please.

My question is, how do I go about setting one up? I mean, how much of the frames do I have to put as drone foundation? What position in the brood box is best? Will I need to replace this foundation at regular intervals? I am thinking varroa here, hence the last question. Do I need to reduce the drone foundation with worker foundation towards the end of the season?
 
as a start, if you don't already own a copy may I suggest that you get yourself John Atkinson's 'Background to Bee Breeding'. It contains quite possibly the most detailed account of drone culture that you'll find in one book.
 
I am planning a larger expansion next year, and I have another site given to me to use that I plan as a queen rearing apiary. I could probably get about twenty hives on here so that gives you some idea of the space.

When you say there is enough space for 20 hives do you mean 20 Apidea Mating hive Or 20 main hives?
 
Not the question you asked, but depending on how many queens you want, I would try to do as much in the first half of the season as possible. I've usually found it more succesful.
That approach would also allow you to remove drone brood after you don't need the same number of drones - hence a curb on varroa.
I wouldn't bother with drone foundation. An empty frame with standard starter strip or even just a dribble of molten wax should suffice. They seem to want to make drone brood anyway.
 
If you put a few drawn super frames in your brood box the bees will rear worker in the frame and drone in the space under each frame. Every now and again cull a frame of sealed drone brood by just cutting it off. If the bees want drones they will rebuild drone cells if the no longer want drones they will build worker cells which is your cue to replace all the super frames with brood frames and prepare the colony for winter.
 
"If you put a few drawn super frames in your brood box the bees will rear worker in the frame and drone in the space under each frame".

Except when the decide not to!


You usually have to buy a pack of 10 drone foundation however if you have a local agent for Maisymouse or Thorntons as someone annoyingly referrs to them as - they may well sell you the odd sheet if you wish to use it.
 
"If you put a few drawn super frames in your brood box the bees will rear worker in the frame and drone in the space under each frame".

Except when the decide not to!


You usually have to buy a pack of 10 drone foundation however if you have a local agent for Maisymouse or Thorntons as someone annoyingly referrs to them as - they may well sell you the odd sheet if you wish to use it.

Is this a new range for them chocolate hive foundation along with chocolate coated brood and chocolate coated caterpiller maybe?:rofl:
 

Rumours that Paynes Poppets in Waddon sacked me because I enrobed myself in dark chocolate on the brazil nut production line are entirely false......




:angelsad2:

OMG theres a chocolate name from the past!!, i had a friend when i was at school whos house backed onto that factory and i used to play football down the road at beddington park. lol.
 
When you say there is enough space for 20 hives do you mean 20 Apidea Mating hive Or 20 main hives?

Sorry I meant there is space for 20 main hives, but i want to use some of it to rear queens as we plan to expand to about 40 or so colonies next year spread over 4 apiaries. This site will be used for rearing queens and making up nucs etc for expansion. I need to do the planning now so that i am ready.
 
as a start, if you don't already own a copy may I suggest that you get yourself John Atkinson's 'Background to Bee Breeding'. It contains quite possibly the most detailed account of drone culture that you'll find in one book.

Thanks i will have a look at this. Winter reading material i think.
 
My question is, how do I go about setting one up? I mean, how much of the frames do I have to put as drone foundation? What position in the brood box is best? Will I need to replace this foundation at regular intervals? I am thinking varroa here, hence the last question. Do I need to reduce the drone foundation with worker foundation towards the end of the season?

Simply put one the drone frame at the corner of the lower brood box (if you're using doble brood box) - 1st/2nd or 9nt/10nt - doesn't really matter. And that's it. If you want drones earlier in the spring, let the drone frame be drawn out in the previuos year. Its much easier if you have drone comb in all or almost all of your collonies throughout the whole year and replace that comb each season. There is no necessity to take it out at the end of the season.
Take care the drone collony to not suffer from lack of pollen and nectar supply and available space for worker and drone brood. Feed when needed and add brood if you have to. Once the drone rearing stops nothing can make that queen to start laying drone eggs again until the next season (except killing the sperms in her spermatheca by freezing)

"Background to Bee Breeding" is a good one, but left you nothing more than the impresion that drone breeding is not easy.

"Bee sex essentials" by Jonh Connor is another one usefull book.


Sometimes drone rearing is funny, not everithing goes "by the book"

Regards
Donnie
 

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