Difficulties straining honey

Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum

Help Support Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

omnimirage

New Bee
Joined
Sep 1, 2015
Messages
52
Reaction score
0
Location
Australia
Hive Type
None
I've been using the crush and strain method for a while now. It worked fine at first since I was extracting a few frames at a time but for the last six months, I've had nothing but trouble with each endeavor. I need a better way to strain the honey due to issues with clogging during the straining process.

I’m maintaining a neglected apiary site, and the honeycomb there is rather black and disfigured. I've laboured lots to get all the clumpy crap out of it and strain it into a liquid. I'm almost finished: I have fifteen kilos of mostly honey. There's still a lot of clumpy stuff in there, and I've poured it into a honey strainer. It's not seeping through. The strainer uses two layers; the bottom part is liquid, the top part is mildly crystal. I've been stirring it and stirring it to little success. I'm guessing perhaps the pores are clogged? Not sure if I need to pour the honey back into the bucket, clean it, and then redo it. Maybe I need to apply some heat source to it? Not sure what efficient heat source I could use. I can't easily put it in the sun, and that option won't be available to me after summer. I've thought about using an outdoor flood light to warm up the honey.

I've tried a lot of other methods, including the paint strainer and a bucket straining system. Though it was effective, I found the wax tended to stick to the strainer, requiring me to try and unstick it, take it out of the strainer, recrush it and put it back in. It was a cumbersome, inefficient process, and the strainers are too expensive. The bucket system involves one bucket sitting on top of another, with holes drilled into the bottom and a strainer placed there. I then pour the honey into one bucket, which goes through the strainer and holes and seeps cleanly into the bucket below. This also could be placed outside, but it tends to clog at the bottom. The other somewhat effective method I've used is some honey strainers I've bought off ebay which work moderately well. Clumps of wax are a little annoying to deal with, but fairly easy to recrush and restrain.

I also have another smaller batch of honey that I'm trying to do a last strain of. The damn honey has now crystalized in the strainer, and it's not easily turning into a liquid. It's currently reaching 35 Celsius here, so I've put it in the sun with a piece of glass over the strainer (to protect from bugs and assist in heating) but it won't melt.

I'm at quite a loss as to what to do. My methods are not working and I would like some insight/direction. Not sure if I should abandon the crush and strain thing and invest in a spinning drum.
 
Crush and strain with honey that is already crystallizing is a pain .. I've been there and trying to filter it by gravity (particularly when it has wax in it as well). I had some success with a couple of frames that were reluctant to spin out from the extractor - I have a home made cider press - just a frame and a car jack - I put the comb in a jelly bag (we use them in jam making over here) and applied some pressure with the bag in a colander and a circular piece of timber over the top. Got most of the honey out this way and what was left got washed up and fed back to the bees - the wax went into the solar melter.

Someone on here will have a better idea ...
 
the honeycomb there is rather black and disfigured

I've never crushed and strained, but this bit caught my attention. I would only crush and strain from clean comb. I am suspecting this comb to have been brooded in? But everyone's choice, I suppose....
 
.
Crushing combs is very expencive. If you put foundations to the langstroth box, hive uses 6-8 kg honey to make new combs to the box.
If you have not foundations, hive needs 15 kg to make new combs to the box.


What about if you get 100 kg honey. It is 5 boxes honey. You get impossible numbers of money what you loose with your system. In one year.

15 kg x 5 = 75 kg.

You loose almost same amount of honey in crushing as you sieve out, if you use foundantionless system

.
In,Australia 300 kg/hive is possible.
 
Last edited:
I
I’m maintaining a neglected apiary site, and the honeycomb there is rather black and disfigured.

Not knowing the provenance of the honey or the health of the bees I think I'd have gone for the match and petrol method with that old comb
 
"Crush" is the wrong word really, as you don't want to compress the wax, it drains best if it's broken up like breadcrumbs. Take the lump of wax out and put it on a board, using a serrated bread knife cut it like a loaf into very thin slices. Each slice can then be easily broken up into crumbs, and drop it all back into your strainer being careful not to compress it.

You might give up on recovering any honey from dirty comb, but don't waste the wax. Even the darkest brood comb will produce a good yellow wax if you steam it and run the hot liquid through a fine filter. (paper kitchen towel or a j-cloth supported on a mesh works a treat) Allow the hot filtered liquid to settle and cool, you'll find the wax will separate cleanly on top.
 
All the advice above is useful .. but I think the problem lies with the fact that the comb and its contents has already been crushed and the difficulty is extracting any honey from it and leave the wax behind ..

I am leaning towards cutting losses and wash the honey out and feed it back to the bees - it will get recycled one way or another and washing it would leave whatever wax behind that could also be recycled. Whilst I don't have black frames in my hives I know a number of beekeepers who have frames that are tens plus years old and still in use - I can't say I like the idea but as long as the bees are healthy it is difficult to argue with it.
 
It did have brood in. I found that the freshly created comb, when it's all white and golden, is much easier to strain than the dark, blackened comb. Does using a queen excluder, to prevent the comb from turning dark like that, help honey straining by not making it as clumpy?

Yesterday it was thirty eight degrees. I had a bucket outside, on bricks, with a glass panel over the strainer: still didn't strain. It has gone rather thick. Could have I creamed it by stiring it? My other one still isn't dripping. I guess I'll have to pour it back in a bucket, perhaps try to heat it up, clean the sieve then try again. I need some effective way of heating up a bucket.

So instead of creating honey, by destroying their wax structure, they need to rebuild that instead, which cuts down on the amount of honey I'll be able to extract? I didn't realise it worked like that.

I've actually managed to strain out all of the wax clumps now. I have some honey comb that's much worse than this. I'm not sure what I want to do with it; I have considered just burning it. Not sure if I want to try and feed it back to my bees, or perhaps just turn it into wax.
 
.
When weather is dry, it makes honey dry too and then it is stiff to handle.

But in recent way beekeeping will be mere pain.

I Australia you may get 300 kg honey from one hive. It is 20 medium super boxes
 
Don't strain it, just extract what you can into a container then warm it in a warming cabinet until the sugar crystals have dissolved then run it through your filter system into another container ready for bottling.
 
Never feed it back to bees may cause robbing and disease. Turn it into mead.
 
.
Extractor has been invented and sieves. It resolves all problems..

Old hat......location location location - Austalia.
I have two words for you........

FLOW HIVE

:sorry:
 
This is my current set-up:

https://imgur.com/a/D2d0Q

I'm having little hassle with what I'm currently trying to strain. Though, it's been proving difficult to try and actually have this last lot of wax actually strain. It doesn't appear to be seaping through, no matter how much I crush it. I'm thinking about getting an outdoor flood light for such, but am unsure.

These other buckets are going to be difficult to strain. There's too much wax and general impurities that must be strained: I'm thinking about getting a bigger strainer to work with. These little honey strainers aren't big enough when working with full 27 liter buckets.
 
That honey has crystallized ... it will probably never strain. If you really want to get it out you will have to build a warming cabinet to take the buckets and get the temperature consistently up to about 40 to 45 degrees when the honey will melt. Wax melts at about 60 to 65 degrees so you will need a fairly accurate temperature controller as you don't want to melt the wax as well.

The best way would be to make your warming cabinet big enough to take a couple of small buckets - honey and wax in the top one with some holes drilled in the bottom of the bucket, strainer underneath and sat on top of another bucket which will collect the melted honey as it drips through ... it's gonna take a while ..

Good luck.
 
That honey has crystallized ... it will probably never strain. If you really want to get it out you will have to build a warming cabinet to take the buckets ...

:iagree:

You can check out the various temperatures for warming honey in this thread started by Mike a. http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=7472

75'F-24'C prepares blossom honey and seed honey for creaming; de-crystallizes semi-granulated honey in jars.
80'F-27'C blossom honey extraction (12 hours minimum)
90'F-32'C heather honey extraction (36 hours)
100'F-38'C liquefies semi crystallized honey (Stir 2-3 times / day)
120'F-49'C liquefies solidified rape honey (Stir 2-3 times / day)
122'F-50'C+ honey will be begin to lose flavour and aroma and spoil.
Over heated honey should only be labelled and sold as cooking honey.

Bear in mind that if you warm very dark comb it can sometimes make the honey bitter.
 
Thank you for the informative replies! I'll have to look into making such. Until then, what should I do with this comb? Can I put it in a frameless super next to my hives, to let the bees scavenge bits of honey off it and leave me the wax behind, or is this foolish due to potential risk of disease? I'm under the impression that disease risk is less in Australia than internationally: I learned beekeeping on a bee sanctuary that required no real concern of disease, so I'm not well informed on what's a good, and bad judgement call here.
 
yep very foolish. Your best way would be to put it in a super but ontop of the crown board with the feeder hole open then the roof ontop the bees will clear it in a couple of days, and leave you with some really nice clean wax.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top