clumsiness making bees aggressive

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I have things arranged so that the bee flight path is directly over my allotment. I have just stomped around and dug on my neighbours plots and had no reaction from the bees. Do bees fail to react to things that are out of sight? I think I will wimp out of doing an inspection this week and get some help.

Don't look on it as wimping out, instead its taking a positive step towards improving the situation.
I'm amazed that someone from your locality hasn't stepped up to the plate and offered to help already having read your posts. Maybe we're more supportive of each other oop North?
 
Don't forget to talk to the bees or yourself or your imaginary friend! (out loud works best for me - it doesn't matter if everyone thinks you're a nutter does it). It might help you concentrate on what you are doing, and should help you to relax.

It might be worth putting up some screening to raise the flight path over your allotment too. Having bees fly into you as you are working your allotment isn't likely to help your confidence. You could use trellis, trellis with "pond" mesh attached or scaffolding mesh. A screen at 7' high should do the trick - it'll push the bees up and over your head, and those of your fellow allotmenteers.

Good luck, and don't give up!
 
I sometimes use a cover cloth - but it is just a double layer of curtain backing fabric. How large should the bits of wood be at either end of your more professional cover cloth?
the cover cloths I use are actually cut down from a bigger piece of scrap fabric. I made them wide enough to completely cover the width of the box and long enough to fully cover a super. The bits of wood - battens - I got from a timber yard scrap bin, they were used as spacers in stacks of timber. They're a bit narrower than the width of the cover cloth.

No need to bother making them fit exactly, and a cheap tea towel will probably do just as well, just make sure the channels aren't too narrow for the strips of wood used as weights. Wash every time used (with bee suit) and roll them up to store.

If I use 9 frames then I find it difficult to get them evenly spaced and once they made a sheet of wild comb between the frames where I forgot to straighten them - which was quite an achievement!
Just push the frames back together so the hoffman shoulders are touching, then the spacing will be correct. Slot a dummy frame into the gap at the end.

In order to reduce the wax between frames I have recently put a light smear of vaseline on the top of the frames, but am careful that I do not to put on the lugs.
Vaseline only on the frame rests, if you put it on the frames it'll make them slippery and/or difficult to grip if you're wearing plastic/latex/nitrile gloves.

I really could not manage without smoke, it makes all the difference and I have thought of not using gloves but I would need calm bees that have never been jolted. I am nervous my nature. but I love the bees. If I get stung through my glove I remove the sting and smoke the area to mask the alarm chemical. Both this hive and the previous one were perfectly behaved until I jolted them, so change in temperament seems immediate. Yes I should get a mentor. So what should I do to the hive? Is the only option to move it away? I usually inspect every week. How long should I wait before I inspect it again?
There's no reason to stop using smoke, just don't use too much. Lift the plastic cover and puff some smoke into the top of the box before you do anything else. Leave them for a few minutes to settle onto the frames and then begin your inspection.

Have a bucket of washing soda handy, so you can wash your gloves if you get stung. No need to stop wearing gloves, they stop your fingers getting too sticky and are easier to throw away than hands!

Yes to a mentor, if not then try to get a bee buddy - another beekeeper who will help you, and you can help them too. Shared experience helps a lot.

Sometimes the frames between boxes get stuck together and I have the same problem - I shall try rotating the top box a bit before lifting it off.
If the bees build comb between the bottom of one frame and the top of the one beneath it then the frame can seem heavy and can jolt upwards when lifted.

Try to get somebody to check the beespace between the boxes, and always make sure the frames are pushed together in the box - so the hoffman shoulders are touching - before you close up.
I have things arranged so that the bee flight path is directly over my allotment. ... Do bees fail to react to things that are out of sight? I think I will wimp out of doing an inspection this week and get some help.
As bontbee says, can you put a screen in front of the entrance? the bees will see you working on the allotment, it might make them as nervous as you. A screen will also force them to fly upwards, and away from you and anybody else who's working nearby.
 
I examined the hive today and they were well behaved really. They did not come at me, did not sting and did not make that high pitched pinging sound of being miffed. The real problem is that very zealous defender bees buzz people a long way from the hive and this is only a problem because of where I keep them. So please, if anyone is still following this thread, can I stop my bees buzzing people or is it all over to me to find a better place for them?!
When I performed my inspection I noticed that I do not have enough space around the hive which results in trivial but repeated little knocks to the hive or area very close to the hive.
I have followed your advice and given myself more space to pick up frames and I find that I can lever my finger under the frame as I pick it up - a much better grip.
 
I examined the hive today and they were well behaved really. They did not come at me, did not sting and did not make that high pitched pinging sound of being miffed. The real problem is that very zealous defender bees buzz people a long way from the hive and this is only a problem because of where I keep them. So please, if anyone is still following this thread, can I stop my bees buzzing people or is it all over to me to find a better place for them?!
When I performed my inspection I noticed that I do not have enough space around the hive which results in trivial but repeated little knocks to the hive or area very close to the hive.
I have followed your advice and given myself more space to pick up frames and I find that I can lever my finger under the frame as I pick it up - a much better grip.

In the short term the answer I'm afraid is moving them to somewhere where they do not bother people.

If the temperament is due to clumsy inspections then obviously as you get gentler the should also calm down however in my experience most of the time bees that follow / buzz people at a distance from the hive indicates some other problem.
So one possibility is re-queening but again that will only take affect after the offspring from a new queen become the foragers / guard bees (over 1 month).

It is unfortunately the problem of keeping bees near public areas, which is why 90% of my colonies are in fields.
 
In the short term the answer I'm afraid is moving them to somewhere where they do not bother people.

If the temperament is due to clumsy inspections then obviously as you get gentler the should also calm down however in my experience most of the time bees that follow / buzz people at a distance from the hive indicates some other problem.
So one possibility is re-queening but again that will only take affect after the offspring from a new queen become the foragers / guard bees (over 1 month).

It is unfortunately the problem of keeping bees near public areas, which is why 90% of my colonies are in fields.

:iagree:
Bees that buzz/greet/follow are troublesome!
Lottie holders may complain and you may be asked to remove the colony.

Some Queens (a lot in the uk IMO) are just horrid and even with the calmest of handling never improve. It's in their genes and they will always be nasty. Mine have one chance and then it's euthanasia. Beekeeping is supposed to be pleasurable!

If you decide to requeen. A member of your local beekeeping club may have a lovely gentle queen for sale AND would help you find the old queen AND help you with the requeening process.

A lovely calm colony are a pleasure to inspect, you would be calmer as well.

Or you could move them but where?

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
 
Hi

I find that removing one or two frames from the outside of the box gives more room to maneuver (make sure the queen is not on it) rest them gently against the side of the brood on the end of the frame.

With the extra space you can angle the frame at a slight diagonal to the box preventing bees from getting squashed on the frame sides when withdrawing.

one of the main things that helped me was learning to move slower over the frames. i.e. move at half the speed that you want to when manipulating. this reduces the knocks and the wave of buzz through the hive when the colony is vibrated. The culmination of knocks raises the alarm level in the group and once you pass a level they get nasty. (unless like some of mine they are just born nasty!)

;)

J
 
I examined the hive today and they were well behaved really. They did not come at me, did not sting and did not make that high pitched pinging sound of being miffed. The real problem is that very zealous defender bees buzz people a long way from the hive and this is only a problem because of where I keep them. So please, if anyone is still following this thread, can I stop my bees buzzing people or is it all over to me to find a better place for them?!
When I performed my inspection I noticed that I do not have enough space around the hive which results in trivial but repeated little knocks to the hive or area very close to the hive.
You need to try to make sure you have enough working space round the hive and then, if possible, put up some screening to make the bees fly upwards and then away from the hive - and any other hives you may end up with.

I think I'm right in saying that the the folks at LASI found that bees will not fly through 6" square trellis*. Maybe you could use some of that if you don't like the idea of scaffold screening or debris netting?


*Found it!
Date: February 2014
Article Title: "Lattice fence and hedge barriers around an apiary increase honey bee flight height and decrease stings to people nearby"
Author(s): Mihail Garbuzov and Francis L W Ratnieks
http://www.ibra.org.uk/articles/Barriers-around-an-apiary-increase-safety-from-stinging
 
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