Clearer boards made cheap.

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Can't seem to see PH's pics any more. How far from the corner does the hole in the ply need to be, and is it a 25mm hole? Cheers

If this is of any help
I'm converting a couple of Canadian clearer boards (don't like them) by cutting two Rhombus escapes in half then cutting them again to fit in each corner so that the escape holes all point to the middle.
I'll be blocking off the central hole.
 
Can't seem to see PH's pics any more. How far from the corner does the hole in the ply need to be, and is it a 25mm hole? Cheers

Standard rhombus has a large central hole under the (unchopped) plastic moulding.
That works.
And is easy to make.

PH's proposed improvement was to cut the plastic in half and back them against the side walls, as far into the opposite corners as possible. Marking their positions with a pencil, you should be able to see how big a hole can be fitted under it - or the biggest holesaw you have available!


The big question with rhombus boards isn't the hole size, its the height of the sidewalls!
Tall walls (like 3 inches) seem to me to work much better ...


/// And I didn't get a response to my "old pictures" question in the forum feedback/new server thread.
 
Standard rhombus has a large central hole under the (unchopped) plastic moulding.
That works.
And is easy to make.

PH's proposed improvement was to cut the plastic in half and back them against the side walls, as far into the opposite corners as possible. Marking their positions with a pencil, you should be able to see how big a hole can be fitted under it - or the biggest holesaw you have available!


The big question with rhombus boards isn't the hole size, its the height of the sidewalls!
Tall walls (like 3 inches) seem to me to work much better ....

I would have thought the side walls would be best with a bee space under the plastic, but what about a 3 inch eke above the board?
 
The big question with rhombus boards isn't the hole size, its the height of the sidewalls!
Tall walls (like 3 inches) seem to me to work much better ...

Ahhhh.
My home made vortex board works so much better than the thorns Canadian and its walls are double the height.
 
Vortex boards need a larger space underneath as they shift the bees out so quickly - where else do they go... Last year I left mine on for just 2 hours and the supers were clear.
 
In response to the requests for piccys of a PH clearer board whilst making a second one today I've taken a couple of photos. I used 9mm ply and 20mm square batten.

Hope these help new members who didn't see the originals.

Tim
 
In response to the requests for piccys of a PH clearer board whilst making a second one today I've taken a couple of photos. I used 9mm ply and 20mm square batten.

Betcha it works better with an Apiguard-size eke underneath it!
I've found that the standard rhombus works very well with 2 or 3 inches under it.

My first home-made rhombus (20mm frame) didn't work as well as the one I got in T's sale. Then I noticed that T's had a 45mm tall frame. :rolleyes:
My recent boards have had a 70mm high rim ... :coolgleamA:



/ probably totally unnecessary for clearing, but, again copying T's example, mine have a beespace rim on the other side. This has the advantage that the (standard central uncut) rhombus can be removed, the board flipped over and hey presto! It is a feeder board!
 
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My husband has made me a couple of boards with a 2" space below ready to use as clearer boards. I just need to add the clearer bits.

Do most folks use the rhombus clearers rather than the canadian cones. Has anyone tried the circular disc 'thingy' as sold by T's?
 
In my experience the rhombus ones are much better, especially if cut in half and used at either corner of the 'deep' clearer board. Search for a previous thread by Polyhive. Using two exits at opposite corners works very well.
 
I'd just like to add that they work very well whether deep or not and I can confirm what Poly Hive claimed -----Still bee free after being on a week.
 
I'd just like to add that they work very well whether deep or not and I can confirm what Poly Hive claimed -----Still bee free after being on a week.
Yes, I did use the rhombus ones in the end as per PolyHives design and they were fab! Cleared down in 8hrs. Will never use porter bee escapes again! Another example of what a super resource this forum is! :)
 
For a quick clear I should image them be very efficient but if you can't get back in a day or so I am told that the bees learn to return to the supers. If so then I should think "horses for courses" ?
VM
 

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