Brood Box Castellations

[nantmoel]

How many other beekeepers here use 11 frame castellations in the BB? I have decided to give this a go, firstly because using 'Hoffman' spaced frames leave a gap that really needs to dummy board to prevent the bees filling it with brace comb, I don't like using plastic spacers. Constructive views please.

 

[JWF]

Don't do it. You will be unable to slide frames away from each other before lifting them from the hive. The inevitable rolling of bees as you lift the brood frames out will give you grumpy bees and nothing but trouble.

 

[Hivemaker.]

I don't like using plastic spacers. Constructive views please.

Use 38mm hoffman spacing like the national hive was designed to take then you won't have space for a dummy board.

 

[Swarm]

Had a few like that over the years. Needs a little care when lifting frames but you develop a knack. I liked the spacing, nice fat honey arcs and less drone brood ripped apart.

 

[Newbeeneil]

In certain areas of West Sussex the use of castellations in the brood box is standard practise.
I have always had them and don't find I roll bees but it does take practise.
Obviously they are good for accurate spacing but you will have to try them to decide if you find it's worth the effort of being very gentle when you lift the first 10mm to get the frame out of the castellations.
Good luck if you try!

 

[Finman]

Use 38mm hoffman spacing like the national hive was designed to take then you won't have space for a dummy board.

Then the dummy board is easier. Just a simple board.

To avoid standard systems is only a nuisance but it gives nothing.

 

[nantmoel]

Use 38mm hoffman spacing like the national hive was designed to take then you won't have space for a dummy board.

38mm where do you get these from, I was not aware that frame manufacturers were 'skimping' on their frames.

 

[Finman]

38mm where do you get these from, I was not aware that frame manufacturers were 'skimping' on their frames.

It will become expencive to you.

35 mm is normal, what brood needs. You may put the gab wider. And bees draw longer cell tubes. When bees put brood to those cells again, they must chew the cells to proper lengt. When they store honey, cells have maximum lenght.

That game is continuous wasting of wax work .
.

 

[Hivemaker.]

38mm where do you get these from, I was not aware that frame manufacturers were 'skimping' on their frames.

All the suppliers used to sell them, Brian, not sure if any of them still do, we make all our own frames, so make them in that size, same spacing as used in the narrow metal/plastic spacers which many still use.

 

[Millet]

I.....

 

[Millet]

.....
common sense binned castleation 4 yrs ago..

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

.....
common sense binned castleation 4 yrs ago..

Neighbour of yours is he?

 

[Finman]

.
Strange issue...

I have standard boxes and standard frames, 35 mm. However I do not use dummy board in boxes.

 

[peterbees]

I bought a cheap angle grinder and removed the sharp corners from the castellations in all my empty supers. Yes, it took a long time. It makes it much easier to place frames back in the supers.

 

[oliver90owner]

Tried them in brood boxes years ago. Haven’t used them since and would not want to, either. Hoffmans or plastic spacers are far better. Use coloured spacers as the natural ones don’t last as long, if they are subjected to sunlight.

Only good for supers, where equal spacing of fewer frames to yield fatter combs is required. I use wide and narrow plastic spacers to achieve wider spacing, as required.

 

[Murox]

How many other beekeepers here use 11 frame castellations in the BB? I have decided to give this a go, firstly because using 'Hoffman' spaced frames leave a gap that really needs to dummy board to prevent the bees filling it with brace comb, I don't like using plastic spacers. Constructive views please.

If you have a gap use or make an appropriate dummy board.

 

[Poly Hive]

I'm a bit puzzled by the OP.

As many know I run Swienty poly and they (in my hands) take 10 combs per box leaving a gap of some 10 to 12 mil. This gap is oddly rarely blocked off.

So........ is the OP actually suffering from excessively thick combs at one end or brace comb or is paying for hoffman sidebars too expensive?

I could understand buying a bee farm and finding that 2 or 3 hundred broods are all castellated might push one in that direction, but otherwise not a chance in hell as they slow things down vastly. And the less time guddling about with the bees the better I find.

PH

 

[Eyeman]

Mine like to fill any gap during a flow.





This dummy board shifted- they didn't waste any time

 

[fincaazul]

.....
common sense binned castleation 4 yrs ago..

when I started some 50 years ago it was all about 'bee space' and bee biology. Regularly took yields of 95lbs+ per hive both in town and on farm locations. Sadly 'scientist' wisdom has intruded and decided that the bees need to learn that different spacing is more beneficial ? So who is right?

 

[Murox]

Don't use Hoffmann frames at 11 per box, propolis may soon build up on the contact faces and the advantages of the spacing will be lost; gaps in boxes of comb will give brace comb or combs bulging on one side.
Get the spacing right or use a dummy board. End Spacers provide a flexible method of spacing. The box can be re-configured by changing end spacers. eg. 8 frame/box (51mm) to 11 frame/box (36.5-37mm).