Artificial swarm does it work

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It seems that internet is filled with British advices how to make artificial swar. And they are all wrong... suddenly.
https://www.google.fi/?gws_rd=ssl#q=artificial+swarm

I read my recipe from English beekeeping book 40 years ago, and I have been very satisfied.



Modified Version of the Artificial Swarm – Jim Donohue (summer 2008)


The classic method of artificial swarm (Pagden ) advocates that the Queen and the frame she is found on should be placed in the new brood box and filled with foundation and placed on the original site with the original supers placed on top.
 
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I think that any method of swarm control should result in a new mated queen.

That is another method i sometimes use, find the old queen and squat her, but never trust a virgin in a full stock at swarming time.
 
That is another method i sometimes use, find the old queen and squat her, but never trust a virgin in a full stock at swarming time.

I meant raise a new queen from swarm control measures, yes I no it perpetuates the Swarming impulse. So what only strong colonies swarm
 
Your missing that the bees and old queen construct queen cells and swarm. It dosnt stop swarming

Noo. You're missing the point. Read the Pagden method and FOLLOW it. Checking the old queen on new site with foragers and supers is all part of the method. If you don't complete the process, then you have no room for complaint.

Taking short cuts, and then claiming the system is flawed, is not the method that is flawed. But the beekeeper taking those short cuts certainly is.
 
I meant raise a new queen from swarm control measures, yes I no it perpetuates the Swarming impulse. So what only strong colonies swarm

Yes, that is the way many do it i know, and so have i, but no longer a thing i do, found it unreliable and too long a delay.
 
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What I have learned now about artificial swarm is that it does not work in theory.
But thanks to lack of understanding, it works in practice.

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Your missing that the bees and old queen construct queen cells and swarm. It dosnt stop swarming


That's because an AS is NOT prevention, it is control.

Just recombine on the new (by then proven) queen at the end of the year.
Everyone's a winner.
 
If you want to split the colony, nothing at all. However, if you want to maintain the colony so it continues to function as a cohesive unit, see my post above


Ah! I understand a little better.

Simple answer is tough luck!

If the bees decide they are going to swarm you are along for the ride! Personally I would go with it and combine at the end of the year for a strong winter colony with a new queen.

Otherwise you are literally fighting one of the strongest forces of nature, the urge to reproduce!
 
Personally I would go with it and combine at the end of the year for a strong winter colony with a new queen.
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I combine hive after a week, it I have flow on pastures.
AS looses swarming fever in 3 days. In a week it has drawn foundations.

I see, how Brood part looses swarming fever, when a virgin emerges. It is after a week.

I am able to manage them with good or with evil. Finally I can split a hive to mating nucs if nothing else does not help.
 
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That is another method i sometimes use, find the old queen and squat her, but never trust a virgin in a full stock at swarming time.

Go on....queen squashed, what does an un-trusty virgin get up to?
I'm assuming you only leave the one to hatch.
 
I used the "hatch" word once and Rab told me off.
 
I do it much the same way for the reason you state, only difference is i first put one of the supers containing stores on the floor, then a queen excluder, then brood box containing a couple of drawn combs (no brood)... a shake of young bees and the queen, the rest of the box contains frames of foundation, i find they draw nice combs much faster and right to the bottom bars doing it this way.

Thanks HM - I'll give that version a try this summer.
 

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