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- Sep 4, 2011
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- Wiveliscombe
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They can also pick them up from flowers when foraging.
Oh yes, that hadn't occurred to me.
James
They can also pick them up from flowers when foraging.
Drones?One of the things that's really interesting to me about the Bob Binnie videos is the discussion of how they actually do the science in terms of trying to remove all possible sources of bias from the results (mostly discussed in the latter half of the second video, from memory). I'm slightly surprised that they appear to do both the treatment and the mite counts, but perhaps that's just because there aren't enough people available to separate those processes. And in fact I guess if they know the colony number for the purposes of assessment but don't know which colony that actually applies to when they visit the apiary, that may be good enough. It's encouraging to see that despite the funding issues they allude to in one of the videos that they're still trying to do the best quality science that they can.
Also interesting because I wasn't aware of it, was that mites turn up in colonies believed to be mite-free even when there are no other colonies nearby. I assume that must mean that pretty much all colonies have some level of infestation even if it's below detectable levels. Either that or "foreign" bees are bringing them in from some distance away, which I didn't realise was a possibility.
James
Drones?
My take home from the graphs was different, statistically there was very little difference between the oae and apivar- pretty much our most effective weapon in the armoury against varroa.So it slows the increase of mites but can’t be used successfully as a late summer treatment?
They talk about a maintenance treatment? Do we really want that ?
Apivar is subject to having mites becoming immune to it so I’m told ?
whereas OE isn’t .
Yes, there is increasing resistance. I've stopped using it.If I've understood the videos correctly, the active agent in Apivar is Amitraz and there is evidence of immunity to Amitraz.
Yes, there is increasing resistance. I've stopped using it.
Apistan has even more widespread resistance.
Apiguard, luckily, is thymol based and not a'hard' chemical so doesn't look like there will be the same problems with effectiveness.
All these api products must be a nightmare for new beekeepers to know what to use!
Apiguard, luckily, is thymol based and not a'hard' chemical so doesn't look like there will be the same problems with effectiveness.
Temperature can be a problem, both too hot and too cool. I've used apiguard often in August with no problems.Apiguard, sadly, has its own problems with effectiveness, not related to resistance.
Yes although to be pedantic I was only thinking of the trip from a remote infested hive to the next port of call.Drones leaving a colony in one area and returning to another some distance away, you mean?
James
My take on the temperature and humidity of different locations are to do with the brood breaks or lack thereof in each individual area, as well as the speed of growth of the hive. Although they tried to treat each area at the same time, it wasn't possible due to there still being forage available in some areas.Returning to this thanks to postings in the "Snake Oil" thread because here seems a more logical place...
I'm a bit lost as to why the temperature and humidity of different locations seems to be of such concern when the books I've read appear to claim that the bees attempt to maintain the brood area within a relatively narrow range of temperature and humidity (whilst it's possible to do so). For example, as I happen to have one of Celia Davis's books here on my desk, she claims that brood needs to be kept at 34.5°C. Is that information incorrect, or could there be something else going on that might relate to temperature and the efficacy of the treatment?
James
Returning to this thanks to postings in the "Snake Oil" thread because here seems a more logical place...
I'm a bit lost as to why the temperature and humidity of different locations seems to be of such concern when the books I've read appear to claim that the bees attempt to maintain the brood area within a relatively narrow range of temperature and humidity (whilst it's possible to do so). For example, as I happen to have one of Celia Davis's books here on my desk, she claims that brood needs to be kept at 34.5°C. Is that information incorrect, or could there be something else going on that might relate to temperature and the efficacy of the treatment?
James
Ambient conditions will still have an effect even when the internal nest conditions are kept within the same limits wherever.Returning to this thanks to postings in the "Snake Oil" thread because here seems a more logical place...
I'm a bit lost as to why the temperature and humidity of different locations seems to be of such concern when the books I've read appear to claim that the bees attempt to maintain the brood area within a relatively narrow range of temperature and humidity (whilst it's possible to do so). For example, as I happen to have one of Celia Davis's books here on my desk, she claims that brood needs to be kept at 34.5°C. Is that information incorrect, or could there be something else going on that might relate to temperature and the efficacy of the treatment?
James
It's not about temperature within the hive - or anywhere else for that matter, it's about how active the bees are, treatments like Apiguard need the hive to be working normally, with bees going out to forage and trying to shift the offensive substance out of the hive by passing it from bee to bee and there being plenty of room within the hive for the stuff to get everywhere. At lower outside temperatures, the bees will be (albeit loosely) clustered the stuff doesn't get shifted around as muchI'm a bit lost as to why the temperature and humidity of different locations seems to be of such concern when the books I've read appear to claim that the bees attempt to maintain the brood area within a relatively narrow range of temperature and humidity (whilst it's possible to do so). For example, as I happen to have one of Celia Davis's books here on my desk, she claims that brood needs to be kept at 34.5°C. Is that information incorrect, or could there be something else going on that might relate to temperature and the efficacy of the treatment
It's not about temperature within the hive - or anywhere else for that matter, it's about how active the bees are, treatments like Apiguard need the hive to be working normally, with bees going out to forage and trying to shift the offensive substance out of the hive by passing it from bee to bee and there being plenty of room within the hive for the stuff to get everywhere. At lower outside temperatures, the bees will be (albeit loosely) clustered the stuff doesn't get shifted around as much
The discussion about temperature is relating to Apiguard.
That was the context I answered your question and as Bob said, it would be interesting to see the results if the tests were done in the spring.They also mention temperature and humidity when discussing the testing of Alouen CAP as far as I recall.
James
We are fortunate enough to live ~3hrs from his shop. My first visit was on a Saturday 2 years ago, and they were not particularly busy. Mr. Binnie came out of the office and engaged a conversation. After stating my name I said, "First of all I totally don't know what I am doing." to which he replied, "None of us do really." with his typical humble demeanor. I limited the conversation to about 10 minutes out of respect for his time. If not, I would likely still be there.Bob binnie
What a pleasure to listen too
A great guy
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