Advice needed - sadly destroying a colony due to EFB

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SireeDubs

House Bee
Joined
Jul 9, 2012
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Location
Nr Exeter (originally from Gogledd Cymru)
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
7 + nucs
Apologies if wrong forum - didn't think it fitted completely in health.

Another new beekeeping friend of mine has European Foulbrood in her single colony. Unfortunately, like me, she's only had it for 2 months or so, so is gutted. The local Bee Inspector has been great in advising her, and I'm going along tomorrow night to lend moral support while we do the sad deed.

I've found this forum to be a brilliant source of support and advice in my short beekeeping career so far, so I hope people don't mind my asking:

1. Shook swarm solution is too late in season?
2. She purchased nuc from local (but large) supplier. Can she argue for money back if we destroy?

Most importantly...
3. Is petrol the best means of destruction? Then burn frames (after fumes gone, obviously) and blow torch hive?

My hive was inspected today, and no signs, thankfully, but it's a very hard lesson to learn so early on...

Thanks in anticipation.
Tracey
 
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I believe the Bee Inspector would be the one to determine the course of action.

Destruction would, I understand, be called for anytime the disease is seriously advanced - whatever the stage of the season. And if the Inspector thinks that's the best route, few should disagree. I daresay the Inspector would be very interested to have the source of the nuc checked out. Its only my very humble opinion, but two months to an advanced stage of disease doesn't sound particularly clever of the supplier.
Did he supply all the kit? (New or secondhand?)
Have any drawn frames been moved into or out of that colony?

Meanwhile do carefully consider the biosecurity of your own colony.
And look carefully for signs of the disease in future inspections. It can be difficult to spot in the early stages - particularly for non-pros, especially beginners.
 
I believe the Bee Inspector would be the one to determine the course of action.

Destruction would, I understand, be called for anytime the disease is seriously advanced - whatever the stage of the season. And if the Inspector thinks that's the best route, few should disagree. I daresay the Inspector would be very interested to have the source of the nuc checked out. Its only my very humble opinion, but two months to an advanced stage of disease doesn't sound particularly clever of the supplier.
Did he supply all the kit? (New or secondhand?)
Have any drawn frames been moved into or out of that colony?

Meanwhile do carefully consider the biosecurity of your own colony.
And look carefully for signs of the disease in future inspections. It can be difficult to spot in the early stages - particularly for non-pros, especially beginners.

Inspector recommends destruction, and we have no argument. Shook swarm IMHO is too late in season. Equipment all new when nuc arrived, but supplier trying to argue that no guarantee is poss. I think they're on very dodgy ground, legally speaking.
The inspector recommends destruction, even though it's a minor infection, as he points out the reinfection rates. He feels (I agree) that she should start her bee colony again, with clean bees, and that she should have money back...
No frames have been moved, thankfully.

I've got as much good info as I can have, and the inspector will return to our area in the next month or so. The infected hive is about 5 miles away, so fingers crossed....

Thanks though, much appreciated.
 
How about a Bee Disease Insurance claim? (Usually comes with Association membership, I believe.)
 
2. She purchased nuc from local (but large) supplier. Can she argue for money back if we destroy?

sorry to read your sad news its not a pleasant task giving a petrol treatment along time ago i purchased an efb nuc from a "nice old chap" that was until i asked for my money back and i found out he wasnt much better than a shonky
second hand car dealer
 
I doubt very much you will be able to claim your money back from the vendor unless numerous others have had the same problem from the same supplier. Better off claiming through bdi as long as you have it.
 
How about a Bee Disease Insurance claim? (Usually comes with Association membership, I believe.)

....covers certain bits of kit but not bees. I expect if the supplier is suspected they will be inspected thoroughly even if not in the zone...
 
I doubt very much you will be able to claim your money back from the vendor unless numerous others have had the same problem from the same supplier. Better off claiming through bdi as long as you have it.

I think there have been a few cases from the same supplier (though local to me, they're actually a national business online). Ironically, it makes the argument a little more complex that my nuc came from the same place, yet seems fine.

Still, most importantly, I'll go and help destroy them tomorrow. Any idea how much petrol. Not much I'm thinking. No more than 3-400ml perhaps?
 
how much petrol

1lbs honey jar full
 
Hive and frames will have to go as well wont they?
 
will that get rid of all the components of the petrol?
 
Thought the BI did the deed to ensure its done correctly however when the petrol's done its job, allow the petrol to dissipate before applying the blow torch.
 
Ironically, it makes the argument a little more complex that my nuc came from the same place, yet seems fine.

A light EFB infection does not always show up easily,the bees will remove a few infected larvae quite fast....so keep checking the brood, just incase.
 
That's a bold course of action for a new beekeeper. Surely you can ask the SBI to destroy the colony? It's not pleasant.

Please remember that efb is transmitted as much by beekeepers as it is by bees! You will of course have been disinfecting all of your tools, footwear, gloves and clothing, (won't you)?
 
Too late for a shook swarm? Not at all. How many times have people collected a swarm in August or even September and it's been okay? Plenty.

More significant is the state of the colony. If a light infection in an otherwise strong colony why kill them? But conversely it wouldn't be worth the bother of saving something already on a downward spiral.
 
may I ask the obvious question that all new beekeeperers will be wanting to ask but are afraid of making themselves look inadequate................. and pick up flack from the tea lady!

How do I scorch a pollyhive?
 
frames only get burnt. Blow torch the hive and/or scrub with 1/3 solution bleach

may I ask the obvious question that all new beekeeperers will be wanting to ask but are afraid of making themselves look inadequate................. and pick up flack from the tea lady!

How do I scorch a pollyhive?

There was a thread about this recently. Soaking with bleach is effectiven and the recommended treatment for poly. With wood, once the petrol fumes have aired off, there's no reason you shouldn't do both.
 

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