Winter preperations (again sorry)

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aberreef

Field Bee
Joined
Apr 22, 2010
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Location
Mid Glamorgan
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
5 hives + 3 nucs
Sorry to start another thread with this topic but I can't find the info I'm after:eek:

For varroa treatment I intend using Apistan strips then Oxalic acid early in the new year (same as last year).

What I'm not sure of is whether I need to threat with Fumidil B as a preventative for Nosema and do I need to add Thymol to my winter feed. I didn't use either of these products last year.

My bees came out of winter extremely strong this year so should I just carry on as per last year?

Thanks

Huw
 
Huw,it's best not to treat for anything unless you need/have to,be it nosema/varroa or anything else,carry out tests first.
 
If the mites in your area are still resistant (or resistant again) to Apistan, which is likely, your mite kill may be poor with the strips (and the resistant mites will be enhanced). I would only use them as an emergency, unless I checked out the resistance first, as one doesn't know how many local beeks are still using this stuff. Bad news if you get it wrong.

Regards, RAB
 
Hi - I am new to this site so beg pardon if I appear to be 'teaching granny'.

My observation on your question is - why are you using Apistan strips and have you carried out a test to see if the Varroa in your hive are resistant to the Pyrethroids in the Apistan? A great many hives now contain resistant mites and most bkrs have stopped using Pyrethroyds for that reason. Apiguard is a useful alternative especially if you use Oxalic in the winter.
 
Have you got anyone near you who would test for Nosema, some on here do it

you need 30-50 flying bees, i use a clear container over the entrance so a few minutes to catch those leaving ( not during orientation flight though as you need old bees)
 
Huw - you shouldn't be put off making proper preparation for winter, but the points above are valid. Apistan may not be effective and if so you would be better off with Apiguard / Apilife Var or Thymovar. As far as I know Fumidil B is for curing rather than preventing, but on the other hand Hivemakers recipie for Thymol adding to winter feed seems to be widely used, on here at least, as a nosema preventative.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

I don't know any other bee keepers locally although I do know of a few through other people.

Last year the Apistan treatment knocked down a few mites (40-50 or so) during the course. When I treated with oxalic far more were killed off.

There is varroa present in my hives. I've seen a few bees with mites on them and this week I saw one bee with deformed wings.

I've had a little read about nosema diagnosis and it doesn't sound too difficult. I'll fire up the microscope this week:cool:

I'll take a look at Hivemakers Thymol recipe too
 
Found this on the biosecurity site for the gov. of southern Australia
"Research shows that the incidence of nosema in a colony can be reduced from about 85% to zero by placing the colony in a "sun trap" where it obtains maximum sun and shelter from cold, wind and rain."

Sunshine and warmth seem to be very effective.
 
How long does Thymol last in the brood chamber

If you are referring to thymolated sugar syrup fed to the bees as stores for winter - as long as there is some left in the hive. This should not be allowed to get into super honey, especially if for sale as honey. That said, it might depend on how much the bees use for winter and spring build-up.

If you fill the brood with the stuff and then feed fondant over the winter, instead of them consuming their stores, if subsequent brooding is restricted for laying space and is delayed by cold weather, quite a lot could conceivably end up in a super.

I try to not need autumn feeding, and over-wintered stores are mostly used up with spring brooding before the OSR, so in my case I am careful not to get any contamination of honey with sugar syrup, let alone thymolated stuff.

This last spring I was removing frames of stores to make brooding space. Those frames have been used within nucs, etc during the season. I will be leaving fewer frames in my hives this winter, just ten in most of them, some may be even left with fewer than that.

RAB
 

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