Which plank arrangement in hive box is better?

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ugcheleuce

Field Bee
Joined
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Location
Apeldoorn, Netherlands
Hive Type
National
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Hello everyone

I have some questions for those of you who know anything about woodworking. I'm trying to design a simple bee hive using 30 mm thick wood (because that's cheap wood hereabouts).

I know very little about woodworking and I have very limited tools in my shed. The local hardware store can cut planks to size for me, but any fine-tuning will have to be done by me (or not at all). I have an electric drill, but it's a handheld drill, so trying to use it for dowels is dodgy. I might be able to borrow a sander somewhere. I don't have an electric saw.

The question is which of the two following ways of joining the outer planks of the hive box is better, from a woodworking points of view.

280jcsh.png


The picture above (MS Paint, sorry) shows the hive box from above. The planks (shown here in green and blue, with thick black borders for clarity) are 30 mm thick. The green outer planks are 150 mm high and the blue inner planks are 125 mm high. The outer dimensions are 405 mm x 405 mm (for the square ones) and 405 mm x 205 mm (for the rectangular ones). It will take Dutch simplex honey frames (very similar to nationals).

I will probably simply glue and nail the planks together, or possibly glue and screw. I don't really mind what it looks like from the outside, as long it is is flush and tidy. Like I said, I don't think dowels are an option for me because I don't have a drill rig (like my dad has). I would be willing to strengthen the outer corners with metal brackets, though I'm dearly hoping to avoid that because it would drive up the cost.

Option A would result in 2 different sizes of planks for the square box. Option B would need 3 different sizes of planks for the square box. I favour option A because it would require fewer saw cuts at the hardware store.

But my main question to you is: does it make a difference with regard to the strength of the construction at all?

And the secondary question: do you think that this construction would be strong enough without any chiselled joints, i.e. using only glue and nails/screws?

Thanks
Samuel

PS. Yes, I've calculated the weight. The square boxes would weigh 4 kg empty (and no more than 35 kg full) and the rectangular boxes would weigh 3 kg empty (and no more than 16 kg full). I intend to use the square boxes as brood boxes and then two rectangular boxes side-by-side on top of it as honey supers.
 
Last edited:
Agree with above, glue and lots of screws will be fine but joints will open in time with continual expansion and contraction, could you borrow a biscuit joiner as that would improve the strength considerably
 
Agree with above, glue and lots of screws will be fine but joints will open in time with continual expansion and contraction, could you borrow a biscuit joiner as that would improve the strength considerably

Just to add, there is no reason that you couldn't insert dowels with a hand drill.
If getting the depth right is a problem then let the dowel go right through and saw the end off where it protrudes and then sand flat.
 
Agree with above, glue and lots of screws will be fine but joints will open in time with continual expansion and contraction, could you borrow a biscuit joiner as that would improve the strength considerably

would those biscuits not rot fairly quick when outside?
 
Just to add, there is no reason that you couldn't insert dowels with a hand drill.
If getting the depth right is a problem then let the dowel go right through and saw the end off where it protrudes and then sand flat.

Bosch/WOLF sell a dowelling kit with a stop which enables you to drill dowel holes of EXACTLY the correct length.

http://tinyurl.com/nvt3d5c
 
One of the 'woodworking' gotchas to watch for is that ALL the wood grain should go horizontally (with the box in its using orientation).
It means that with varying moisture levels (and age), the box height may vary slightly, but it doesn't distort or twist the box.


/ and I'm not a woodworker, or even a real 'bodger' !
 

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