People often say this but when I check the bottom of the boxes when they come off there aren’t any squashed beesSurely equal numbers theoretically get squished, top or bottom??
Just that on the bottom you can't see them!
It’s also asymmetrical. I suppose that settles the argument ref cold or warm way .
A bee space is a bee space . Bees get squished on the box edges , not between frame bottoms and tops .thats cos you've squished them all !!
- just personal preference really. Companies have to fiddle to grow i think, you know, a new model of car every year, a new smart phone, an improved gadget etc etc etc .
Surely equal numbers theoretically get squished, top or bottom??
Just that on the bottom you can't see them!
They're always on the bottom!
Which is why you wouldn't make them that way.A bee space is a bee space . Bees get squished on the box edges , not between frame bottoms and tops .
my crown boards have a bee space shim .
if you look at the drawings for an under floor entrance floor , you’ll find it is flush.
the base of a top bee space box is flush .
Flush to flush = squished bees .
That assumes you lift a brood box - presumably because you need double brood as Nationals are not big enough.Surely equal numbers theoretically get squished, top or bottom??
Just that on the bottom you can't see them!
Very nice ... I like that idea ... lot lighter than my LDH as well I suspect ....
I made all mine with a shim added . Making them interchangeable .
Extra space helps prevent situations where burr comb could cause problems, mine have 9mm rims but I'm running top space anyway.
It is light but a little awkward due to the size but once in place just fine. The roof is 2mm b;ack Corrux held in place with the push fit holders for plastic car panel. Drill a 6ml hole through the corrux onto the sides and bearers and push in the rivet and tap down. It makes a good seal. I was told that a pond liner was tougher from someone who uses it on Nationals. Easily cut and very light. I also have polystyrene cut for the tops using a cloth over the frames in sections so I can inspect one setion of the hive at a time
if you look at the drawings for an under floor entrance floor , you’ll find it is flush.
the base of a top bee space box is flush .
Flush to flush = squished bees .
Except Stan makes our UFE and we can orientate those any way.
even for Langstroths ?
I used to buy mine from STB at Beetradex, but he has jacked up his prices: B.S National Varroa Mesh
I’ve been searching the forum for plans and found JBMs but would like if possible to convert my existing OMFs to UFEs to save on cost. Can’t find a post that mentions plans for this though, unless I’ve missed one!
