transfering bees from an old hive to a new hive

[joe]

i have inherited an old hive from the next allotment to my surprise it has a colony within it
having inspected the old hive the frames are beyond redemption although the bees appear to be thriving
how do i transfer the bees and safeguard the brood
i have a new hive to transfer them into.

 

[REDWOOD]

Bailey comb change

 

[REDWOOD]

Sorry Joe I should have elaborated as it's the beginners section.
1. Prepare a clean brood box filled with frames of foundation or comb
2. Place this box over current brood box
3. Feed with 1:1 syrup unless you are using comb
4. When the bees have drawn out some of the foundation, find the queen and place her on this comb
5. Place queen excluder over the old brood box and under the new, trapping the queen in the upper box
6. If possible, arrange a new hive entrance between the two brood boxes and close off the old, thus helping to reduce the amount of pollen stored in the old lower combs
7. After three weeks remove the old brood chamber
8. The brood will have hatched and the comb can then be rendered to recover the beeswax

 

[Russel]

Sorry Joe I should have elaborated as it's the beginners section.
1. Prepare a clean brood box filled with frames of foundation or comb
2. Place this box over current brood box
3. Feed with 1:1 syrup unless you are using comb
4. When the bees have drawn out some of the foundation, find the queen and place her on this comb
5. Place queen excluder over the old brood box and under the new, trapping the queen in the upper box
6. If possible, arrange a new hive entrance between the two brood boxes and close off the old, thus helping to reduce the amount of pollen stored in the old lower combs
7. After three weeks remove the old brood chamber
8. The brood will have hatched and the comb can then be rendered to recover the beeswax

Welcome Joe,

I suspect this maybe a neglected hive, try to remove frame and they fall apart?
As Redwood says but if you can't find the queen leave out QE, check several days later to see if she's laying in top box, if yes put QE in and keep fingers crossed you've trapped her in top box!

 

[joe]

many thanks for the advice, it is really usefull
will enact I'll let you know how i get on

 

[Arfermo]

I wouldn't bother about safeguarding the brood in hive that probably hasn't had any varroa treatment (ever?) based upon what you say. Frankly I would shook swarm with a QE on the floor of the new hive and another QE above the new BB so that you can trap, clip and mark the Q if not already done. When completed a quick drizzle of oxalic and they are then set up for the rest of the season - then thymol (Apiguard or MAQS) in late August. Shook swarm is very quick but Baillie is dragged out over several weeks - a real pain. Shook swarm generally get the colony expanding quckier too, especially if one has a frame or three of drawn comb cadged from whereever.

 

[Heather]

Have to agree, I find Bailey tedious, and always do Shook. If original frames frail you can gently brush bees off, and I use a clump of leaves rather than an actual brush as bees get stuck in brush.
Just remember that Queen excluder UNDER the new brood box, on the floor area, - leave there for a few days to allow them to settle then remove.
If no QE in place temporarily they have been know to leg it.
Give a feed too if all new foundation being used. Takes lots of energy to build wax.

 

[itma]

For a neglected hive, full of wild comb and rotten frames, shaking the bees into another box is highly unlikely to be possible for anyone, let alone an absolute beginner.

A Bailey will take time, but that time will allow an interval for a bit of learning.
"Buying time" at this time of the year, by giving the bees lots of extra hive-space, should help prevent swarming...


A new deep box on top with new frames and foundation, a feeder on a top board (with a shallow box around it) and a waterproof roof on the top is the way to go.
Then it is a matter of being patient for a while! Which provides a time interval of a fortnight or so for some serious cramming on beekeeping knowledge, before looking for brood and Queen in the new box. She needs to be confirmed as being up there, before trapping her in the new box with the Queen Excluder. And the new beekeeper needs to be able to make that call.


Hopefully
- the new and old hives are of the same type and therefore size (footprint). If not, you will need to make an adaptor to go between them. A sheet of marine ply, bigger than the bigger box, with a hole cut in it that is almost as big as the inside of the smaller box, should do the trick. Accurate measurements, cutting and prime material are optional, just as long as you can make the join weatherproof.
- there is no Queen Excluder between any of the boxes comprising the old hive. If there is one, it needs to be removed. Not a problem if there is only the one box!


Joe, you have acquired a new hive, but not said anything about other equipment, contacts or training.
My suggestion is that your first task is to make contact with your local association - who may be able to help with 'expert' assistance, the loan of any extra kit needed immediately, and suggestions (quality, discounts, etc) for sourcing other kit that you will need to have of your own. The assistance in person would be particularly valuable when looking for the Queen in the new box. Marking her (and optionally clipping) would be even more helpful.
As a second task, my suggestion would be to get hold of a good beginners book (suggestion - Haynes Manual of Beekeeping) and begin just by going through it, seeing what all the different sections are about, before starting to go through any in detail.
Unfortunately, this is not an ideal time of the year for finding beginners training classes.


Good luck with the new hobby ... !