Total stupid question

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When the bottom comes so much out, it rain onto bottom. Edg of bottom should be at same level as wall.

But, a well done hive! Professional level.
 
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I know, i know, but having never seen a hive in the flesh before how do the sections of a hive lock together? Or dont they, do the sections just sit on top of each other and hope for the best?

Reason for asking is i have downloaded the plans to build a hive from a link on here but the plans dont show how the sections slot together. I am 90% through making my first one (a few slight errors) and this has just occured to me.

The plans i am using are these ones: http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yourself/10-frame-langstroth-barry-birkey/

Hi

My advice even if your hives are going to be static, ie not migratory, use a strap on each hive, for the time taken to do a strap up, waht 5 seconds it is worth doing. Use good quality hive straps and be careful as you can get them too tight, but then if they are strapped to the stand, and the stand is pegged/staked to the ground there is very little chance they can be knocked/blown over unless "someone" is determined!

After all this trouble making your hives so nicely, make them secure, use a strap!

Cheers

Dave
 
I put a 3mm gap between the hive entrance and a landing board area. The bees walk over it but water falls through it, and not into the hive, but I also fit mesh floors which don't flood anyway.
 
Super bit of woodwork. If only my ability was only close I would be very pleased with myself, but thank God the Noah wasn't depending on me for tight joints.

My OM floors have the entrance underneath, but still a very good/pertinent tip about the 3mm gap JC. Last two of four due to receive their new floors over the next couple of days, but landing board not yet fitted - I feel an adjustment coming on. :)
 
All comments are being noted, many thanks people for your suggestions.

Here is the new and improved version with the proper handholds...


_MG_3533resize.jpg
 
Very smart. Have you tried any frames in the boxes yet ?
 
No not yet, that will be on the list of things to do :D


Blimey..........I'd have done that before I cut out too many, but then I'm the one who followed a plan for a bait hive which wouldn't hold a national frame, apart from corner to corner. And it ended up being not bee tight as I'd left it in the rain and it was warped.................perhaps I'll shut up now and trust your measuring :)

Lovely hive by the way... :cheers2:

Frisbee
 
Wow i need some medium depth supers :)

Are you going into production :drool5:
 
what can i say but well done on the hive first class work, if you ever wanted to earn a few £££££ then consider selling on here. once again bloody good job
 
To "bee" honest i am suprised that you guys think that this standard is unreachable, however maybe later on into the autumn if anyone wants some bespoke items made up then sure i will be willling to produce some stuff for you guys.

All the pieces i have made so far conform to the plans that i have downloaded, i was assuming that i would be making the frames myself anyway!

Anyway all this is prototype work as i have assumed that i will be wanting more than 1 or 2 hives eventually so i have made jigs as i have gone along so its much easier to reproduce later on.

P.S i thought Cedar was gods gift to the bee keeping world?

Also on a side note, what are peoples opinions on finish? Would a good polyurethane varnish be any good for the exterior?
 
Cuprinol clear.

Doesn't harm the bees.

Thats what i use on all my stuff.

Very nice work i must say :)
 
merylvingien,

I use Cuprinol clear. Ply parts need protection from UV, so extra coatings.
Non-cedar will need a very waterproof exterior finish.

OK, cedar is a bit lighter, lasts a lot longer and needs less surface treatments, but do the bees mind either way, as long as they have a nice dry compartment. Useful for others too, not just us beekeepers.

Smart work btw. Bet you used a jig for those joints!!

I have always bought in my frames. Too much hassle to make; machine made from the big producers are interchangeable for parts from one batch to the next and very cheap (esp. sales of 'seconds'). But... if you want to, your choice.

I have worked in a woodworking shop in the distant past, but have to make do with 'less beefy' machines now. 'Wadkin' and 'cast iron' come to mind. I daresay machines are not quite so 'robust' these days but are more efficient?

Regards, RAB
 
Haha good old Wadkins, in fact my table saw is a Wadkins and very heavy it is too.

Yes the box joints are done on the table saw with the aid of jig, very accurate.

I havent got round to making the frames yet, but they cant be that difficult to make...
 
Hmmmm. I'm tempted. I've got the router, the Leigh jig to make the dovetails....just very little time! I do have a lot of oak planks - any disadvantage to oak, other than it is heavy? I can't see much point in bothering with frames - they're very fiddly, and not that expensive.

I might try and make the extra supers that I'll need next year for all that, er, honey.
 
It is done with a dado blade, but unless you are familiar with using one of these blades i wouldnt advise the novice "having a go".
The amount of power that these blades store is tremendous. Also new machines wont accept these type blades and also they shouldnt be used on any machine with a electric brake.


Here is the jig i made, standard blade is on the saw at the moment though
_MG_3534resize.jpg


_MG_3535resize.jpg



And one for the Wadkins fans :sifone:

_MG_3536resize.jpg
 
Hmmmm. I'm tempted. I've got the router, the Leigh jig to make the dovetails....just very little time! I do have a lot of oak planks - any disadvantage to oak, other than it is heavy? I can't see much point in bothering with frames - they're very fiddly, and not that expensive.

I might try and make the extra supers that I'll need next year for all that, er, honey.

I certianly wouldnt go to the bother of making dovetails for this project and even more so i wouldnt be using oak, you will dull your routers cutters in an instant.
The Leigh dovetail jig is superb, i bought mine many moons ago and have been impressed every time i use it.
 
Damn !
I thought it would of been with a Dado..

I am trying to buy a Delrin(plastic) jig in the uk to use with my router table.

Like this one:
 

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